If I cant use a 45, what kind of plane for a bead
davidewhiting
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Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
If I cant use a 45, what kind of plane for a bead
davidewhiting
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Re: If I cant use a 45, what kind of plane for a b
RJ Whelan
>David ... have you ever built a "scratch stock". I probably have 50 of them I've built over the years - rarely do they take more than 45 minutes to build and I usually don't even bother hardening them. I build them out of an old handsaw blade - I don't even want to think about the possibility that I cut up a $1000 saw to make tools.
I think you should be able to type "scratch stock" in one of the search engines and you'll find a bunch of article about how to build them .... rj
Re: If I cant use a 45, what kind of plane for a b
Ernie Miller Topeka
>How about a woodie side bead? but they only make one bead at a set distance from the edge. What is the problem you are having? is the wood straight grained? Pull the blade all the way back till it won't cut any thing but air. Then lower the blade 1/2 turn and start your bead then keep turning it 1/3 turn untill you get your bead. What wood are you using? life shouldn't be this hard.
More tips
jim_reed@marietta
>I just grabbed up a 1/8" bead blade from my latest batch, threw it in the #45 and cut the bead in the picture in about a minute. Sorry for the clarity of the picture, but the bead is near perfect and was done in soft pine. Here are some tips: Bead cut consists of two components, the quirt on each side and the bead in the middle. Set your blade to protrude only 1/16" or so and start cutting the quirt. Lower the blade and also increase cutting depth as you go. I usually adjust two or three times at least. It takes less than ten passes for a small 1/8" bead.
Re: If I cant use a 45, what kind of plane for a b *LINK*
Roy from Cincy
>You might try a beading tool. I got one and it seems to work fairly well. see link.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=32679&category=1,41182&ccurrency=2&SID=
Re: If I cant use a 45, what kind of plane for a b *LINK*
Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)
>Another tool is the Stanley #66 beader. LN make a bronze version of this. This and the #45 work well for me.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Stanley #66
Re: If I cant use a 45, what kind of plane for a b
paul womack
>I think you should be able to type "scratch stock" in one of the search engines and you'll find a bunch of article about how to build them .... rj
You might find a whole page dedicated to them :-)
BugBear
Re: addendum
paul womack
>I keep waiting for Wood Joy tools to add a scratch stock to their range - it seems inevitable.
BugBear
how well does a scratch stock work
Ian
>How well does a scratch stock work in Aussie timbers?
I've always been told that eucualypts are too hard for sratch stocks, that they really only work in softer woods.
Re: addendum *LINK*
Wendell @ Murphy, TX
>Paul,
There's already a double fenced scratch/beading tool offered by Woodjoy Tool. Are you looking for them to make a different configuration?
Re: If I cant use a 45, what kind of plane for a b
John, NY
>Why can't you use a #45??
Re: how well does a scratch stock work
Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)
>Ian
I actually find it easier to cut beads in jarrah than pine with my #66 (and LN blades). The softer timber is physically easier to cut but the harder timber stands up better - less tearout, less fuzziness, cleaner walls and valleys.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Re: If I cant use a 45, what kind of plane for a b
davidewhiting
>Just having trouble getting a good cut in either oak or cherry.
I may have started too deep.
I need to better understand how to sharpen the cutter.