Clifton #7 & jointing observations
Ted Shuck
>I started work on a built-in bench for our breakfast area this weekend. It is L-shaped, 8 feet by 6 feet, built into a corner of the wall. I am having to build panels for the seats and backs about 20 inches wide, so I've been doing a lot of jointing, gluing, and flattening panels. Didn't take long to learn that it's best to spend a little extra time getting the joints as good as possible up front.
I'm using a Clifton #7 jointer that I bought last year when Woodcraft was closing them out. I was getting more chatter than I expected until I decided to test the sole for flatness. This sent me off onto a significant diversion to flatten the sole, after which it worked a lot better. I used the filing/scraping procedure promoted by Bugbear. I would guess that it was off by about 0.010", with the toe and heel touching first.
After using the plane for a few hours I noticed another problem. The tote on this plane has a short horn with a sharp point. This isn't a problem with the Clifton #4 I have, but when I pick up the #7 by the tote, the point of the horn digs into my hand between my thumb and index finger. After several hours of this, it gets annoying. Anybody else notice this? I really like the look of the bubinga tote, but I think I am going to need a new one!
I was undecided before this excercise as to whether I liked the edge of my jointer blades slightly cambered or flat. A flat blade can be used to adjust the squareness of an edge using the lateral adjuster, where the cambered blade can be used to do the same by shifting the plane left/right. Jeff Gorman has a good writeup on the cambered method. I am now a proponent of the cambered blade method. A big advantage of this method is that it works if the board edge is tilter one way on one end of the board and the other direction on the other end of the board. The plane can be shifted from one side to the other during the pass over the board.
I've been using three planes for this work, two Stanley #5's, and the Clifton #7. One #5 has a wide mouth and a strongly cambered blade. I use it to get the remove the roughsawn edge and do initial flattening of the edge. The second #5 has a finer mouth and a slightly cambered blade and I use it to get the edge closer, reserving the #7 for the final smoothing/straightening passes on the edge. I've found that I need to sharpen all three blades twice a day.
Regards,
Ted