WoodCentral Forums

Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge

Clifton #7 & jointing observations

Posts

Clifton #7 & jointing observations

#1

Clifton #7 & jointing observations

Ted Shuck

>I started work on a built-in bench for our breakfast area this weekend. It is L-shaped, 8 feet by 6 feet, built into a corner of the wall. I am having to build panels for the seats and backs about 20 inches wide, so I've been doing a lot of jointing, gluing, and flattening panels. Didn't take long to learn that it's best to spend a little extra time getting the joints as good as possible up front.

I'm using a Clifton #7 jointer that I bought last year when Woodcraft was closing them out. I was getting more chatter than I expected until I decided to test the sole for flatness. This sent me off onto a significant diversion to flatten the sole, after which it worked a lot better. I used the filing/scraping procedure promoted by Bugbear. I would guess that it was off by about 0.010", with the toe and heel touching first.

After using the plane for a few hours I noticed another problem. The tote on this plane has a short horn with a sharp point. This isn't a problem with the Clifton #4 I have, but when I pick up the #7 by the tote, the point of the horn digs into my hand between my thumb and index finger. After several hours of this, it gets annoying. Anybody else notice this? I really like the look of the bubinga tote, but I think I am going to need a new one!

I was undecided before this excercise as to whether I liked the edge of my jointer blades slightly cambered or flat. A flat blade can be used to adjust the squareness of an edge using the lateral adjuster, where the cambered blade can be used to do the same by shifting the plane left/right. Jeff Gorman has a good writeup on the cambered method. I am now a proponent of the cambered blade method. A big advantage of this method is that it works if the board edge is tilter one way on one end of the board and the other direction on the other end of the board. The plane can be shifted from one side to the other during the pass over the board.

I've been using three planes for this work, two Stanley #5's, and the Clifton #7. One #5 has a wide mouth and a strongly cambered blade. I use it to get the remove the roughsawn edge and do initial flattening of the edge. The second #5 has a finer mouth and a slightly cambered blade and I use it to get the edge closer, reserving the #7 for the final smoothing/straightening passes on the edge. I've found that I need to sharpen all three blades twice a day.

Regards,

Ted

Re: Clifton #7 & jointing observations

#2

Re: Clifton #7 & jointing observations

Christopher Fitch @ Memphis

>That'a alot of sharpening.. What kind of wood are you using?

I have a number of Clifton planes and, for me at least, I find their blades remain sharpest the longest. The Hock blade I have in my Record 5 and my LN plane blades do almost as well. I don't see that much of a difference between them all.

Not sure why you would be seeing problems with edge retention like that.

Re: Clifton #7 & jointing observations

#3

Re: Clifton #7 & jointing observations

Ted Shuck

>I'm using hard maple, and it's pretty hard!

I'm finding that the effort I need to exert increases after about 3-4 hours use, and where there are small grain reversals, I am getting more tearout. If I resharpen when I have lunch, and again in the evening, I get much better results.

I have a Hock blade in one of the #5's and a SW blade in the other. The blades are noticably duller in the centers than at the edges when I sharpen them.

Ted

Re: Clifton #7 & jointing observations

#4

Re: Clifton #7 & jointing observations

John Truxell-Svenson (jvs)

>I had two Cliftons before I got rid of the #4 (the #6 was a keeper), and never thought of the edge holding of the stock irons as being all that great, but they are nice and thick, stiff, and sharpen/hone very nicely without a lot of fuss. If you are looking for more edge life, the Hotley S53 irons are wonderful (I get at least two to three times the useful edge life over the stock blade), and are in the same rough price ballpark as replacement originals. I like the totes, but they are easy enough to carve if you want something different.




/jvs

Re: Clifton #7 & jointing observations

#5

My theory about blades

jim_reed@marietta

>The blade is the one thing about a plane that can be easily changed after manufacture. I think Stanley and others picked a carpentry blade to ship with their plane. Carpentry blades need to be cheap as well as light, thin, and soft so that they can be sharpened quickly on job site. Cabinetmakers have different needs like thick & hard, so these OEM blades rarely hold up well. That is why Hock & others sell replacements by the buckets.

Re: Clifton #7 & jointing observations

#6

Re: My theory about blades

Ted Shuck

>I have not found much difference in the edge holding ability of the Hock blade and the old SW blade. The SW blades are laminated, so the steel at the edge is reputed to be harder than other Stanley blades. The Hock blade is thicker and less likely to chatter, but they both seem to need about the same amount of sharpening after a similar amount of abuse.

Ted

Re: Clifton #7 & jointing observations

#7

Steve Kubien

Thanks for the write-up

Steve Kubien

>Hi Ted,

I really appreciate the review. I have wondered about the Clifton line-up for a while and have considered picking up a #6 as a compliment to my Knight smoother and jointer. As many have heard me say before, I love my Knight planes (really lookin' forward to getting the new one with the fence! Stealth gloat!!) but I am also curious about high-end Bailey style planes (like Clifton, LV and LN). Perhaps some day..

Anyway, thanks again

Steve Kubien

Ajax, Ontario

remove the _9 to email

Re: Clifton #7 & jointing observations

#8

Re: Clifton #7 & jointing observations

paul womack

>the Hotley S53 irons are wonderful (I get at least two to three times the useful edge life over the stock blade), and are in the same rough price ballpark as replacement originals.

Uhh?

Holtey prices

Clifton Prices

Clifton 2" blade 28.80, Holtey 70 GBP (*)

That's a "super sized" ballpark you have :-)

BugBear

(*) both prices V.A.T. inclusive to allow apples-for-apples comparison.

Re: Clifton #7 & jointing observations

#9

Re: Clifton #7 & jointing observations

John Truxell-Svenson (jvs)

>Over here the ballparks may be a little larger, but the difference is smaller; ~$58 v. ~$85 at Tools for Toodworking, making the Cliftons about a little less than 3/4 of the price of Hotleys instead of a little less than half. The delta would fit in Fenway, or even Wrigley, for that matter. :)




/jvs

Re: Clifton #7 & jointing observations

#10

Re: Clifton #7 & jointing observations

Ted Shuck

>I am generally satisfied with the iron in my Clifton #7. It does sharpen well, as you say, and after a few hours use, I am ready to take a break and sharpen it. It still planes ok before sharpening, but there is a noticable improvement after sharpening.

I was never bothered by the tote on this plane before, but only used the plane for a few minutes at a time to joint a couple of edges. This project had me jointing edges for hours, so the pointy horn on the tote became more and more annoying. It may be that all I need to do is round off the end a little, but the horn is only about half the length of that on an old Stanley, so it doesn't leave a lot to work with.

Thanks for the input,

Ted

Re: Clifton #7 & jointing observations

#11

Tools for Toodworking?

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>Toel will appreciate that new name.

Re: Clifton #7 & jointing observations

#12

Re: hmm...

paul womack

>Ain't it amazing what happens when you travel the Atlantic (in either direction)?

BugBear

Re: Clifton #7 & jointing observations

#13

Re: Tools for Toodworking?

John Truxell-Svenson (jvs)

>Oops--apologies, Joel.




/jvs

👍 This page answered my questions

Your vote helps other woodworkers quickly find the answers and techniques that actually work in the shop.