PA Dutch molding query

Re: PA Dutch molding query

Wiley Horne--Glendora CA

>Hi Bill,

I surely agree with you--it's a fascinating part of our country. You might take a look at the book 'Making Authentic Pennsylvania Dutch Furniture: With Measured Drawings of Museum Classics', by John G. Shea, Dover paperback (can be had at Amazon for instance for $19.95).

As I understand it, the 'Pennsylvania Dutch' were actually Pennsylvania Deutsch-- Swiss Mennonite and Palatinate German folk.

In the early 1700's, these immigrants brought rifled barrel technology from Germany, and in Lancaster County and thereabouts developed a light rifle suitable for the frontier--the Pennsylvania-Kentucky rifle.

Wiley

Bad ranting review for Shea's book...

Bill Tindall, E. TN

>I have the Shea book and found it disappointing. Well, actually I have been mad ever since I wasted my money on the mail order purchse. Only 50 or the 250 pages are what the title suggests the book is about and the rest is padding. And, I don't know what these authors are thinking when the pick things to put in a book. Only 2 dressers, an object one might imagine making that would be useful, were shown. On the other hand several dough tables were offered, like who wants to build a dough table in this day and age! Or a salt box. Or the most uncomfortable and ugly chair I have ever seen! Criminy, if I was doing a book whose purpose was to provide plans for PA Dutch stuff I would select things someone might want, or better yet, need in 2004 not 1750. This was supposed to be a plan book, not a history book. (I have this same problem with most periode furniture books, but this is the worst)

Thanks

Wiley Horne--Glendora CA

>I was thinking about buying it from the description. So the search continues.....

Wiley

Re: PA Dutch molding query

Ellis Walentine

>I have made custom router bits for profiles I thought would get enough use. I can't even remember the name of the vendor who sold me the blanks, but they are two-wing, tool-steel bits that resemble rabbeting cutters without pilot bearings.

To make your custom profile, start with a hand-made wood sample of the profile, and then crosscut it at the rake angle of the wings of your blank cutter. Using machinist's prussian blue, coat the face of each wing (I have also used sumi ink for this) and then etch the profile into the bluing by tracing your cutoff sample with a carbide-tip etching tool. Shape a grinding wheel appropriately for your profile and carefully grind the profile(s) into the blank bit. Take your time and try to keep approximately the same grind angle as the blank arrived with. If the two profiles aren't in perfect alignment, it isn't a big deal.

I'm curious as to why making a small plane isn't an option. A scratch beader would be yet another option, and it wouldn't take much time at all.

Ellis

Re: PA Dutch molding query

Adam Cherubini, NJ

>Hi Bill,

The front edges of some PA Dutch pieces are double humped like a two humped camel. Short of making a plane to cut this profile (not an option) does anyone have a suggestion as to how to do this profile with electrons or not.

The double arch mold to which you refer is not typical of PA dutch furniture. It is characteristic of Wm&Mary furniture in general. It is always applied, as its purpose is to cover up joinery.

No one knows how it was made, but the examples I have seen appear to be scratched. The shape seems designed for a scratch stock.

Here's how I make it:

1) I smooth both sides of a 4/4X 6" or so wide board. I place the board on edge in my leg vise and try the edge straight.

2) I apply a side bead to the edge, then reverse the board applying a second bead to the other edge. Note that the board must have a straight secondary grain and must be uniform in thickness.

3) A small strip of wood sometimes remains between the beads. I remove that with a narrow chisel.

4) Lastly, I rip the molding off the board using my plow plane. I create a very narrow groove from both sides. The advantage to this approach is clear:

a) The plow is like a table saw with a fence (or so I imagine). You end up with a very accurate thickness of molding since the cut is related to the opposite surface.

b) the bottom or mating side of the molding is smooth and straight. Smoothing a sawn edge of such a small piece is a pain.

Was this profile typically applied or milled into the side and rail pieces?

Always applied. I use hide glue and a few headless brads (spregs) in the flat in between the arches.

Why are there not more (are there any?) books on PA Dutch furniture? It strikes me as Shaker-like, with a bit more elegance. As such I would think it would be a popular style to reproduce.

PA dutch is usually crude, poorly built (peasant built) furniture featuring (large) architectural moldings and sometimes curious surface work and milk paint. It generally lacks the refinement of English or Urban American furniture from the same period. I suspect you would find Wm&Mary furniture to have much more in common with Shaker. I suggest procuring a copy of "Worldly Goods" exhibit catalogue from the Philadelphia Museum of Art.

As to why its not more popular, I always figured it was because the few period pieces were insufficient to establish a market of collectors. Furniture from the revolution was extensively reproduced, and therefore remains available.

Shea's book, like many others like it, is not only frought with errors, but fails to depict typical pieces. Its just not scholarly work. In my opinion the best book about period furniture is Jeff Greene's book "American Furniture of the Eighteenth century". There are no measured drawings nor should there be. Measured project plans really cause more problems than they solve. Understanding how period furniture was made is really the only practical way to reproduce it.

Good luck with your double arch mold.

Adam