Re: question and digression
joel
>When you include the time needed to maintain the stones I don't think there is any difference in time spent - arkansas stones seem in that sense to be overall less work.
The basic view of sharpening with sharp micro abrasives is as you say. With oilstones you first create a wire edge with something coarse. A medium india for example. Then the arkansas - which abrades only a little bends the metal back and forth till it breaks.
In both systems you end up with the same thing but with sharp abrasive (waterstones, sandpaper) as you are wearing away the wire edge you are creating more of it. With arkansas stones the same thing happens only slower.
In the way I was taught after you finish getting rid of the wire edge - that is you can't feel it anymore you strop with a PLAIN, untreated strop - this gets rid of the last bits of the wire edge that we can't really feel. THe edge becomes to touch "sweeter" smother and lasts longer. And Sharper - it really works.
REcently I started doing this when using waterstones - after I had done with the 8K stone and I think I am getting sharper results. I hope for the same reason.
As for your cousins case - unless he has a way of creating the wire edge for sharping using a couarser stone trying to sharpen from start to finish on an Arkansas Stone seems to me a exercise in patience.
If I had to state what I think is the basic flaw with sharp abrasive systems is that I see too many mirror polished edges that still have a faint wire edge on them - and espceially with power sharpening - the steel seems to get consumed faster.
With Arkansas stones the basic flaw I see is that unless you practice good technique it's every easy to get to a situation where short-cuts give you a nice belly that is impossible to sharpen well.
By free hand sharpening with both systems you pick up a lot of speed and with waterstones espceially you even out the wear on the stone.
Also I think with free hand technique sharpening other items isn't such a problem.
THat all being said I don't think it matters which technology of sharpening one picks - they all work, with tradieoffs and compromises betweent them. The single more important thing in sharpening is understanding what a sharp edge is and having good, consistent technique (which is differnt than technology).