Buck Bros chisels

Re: Buck Bros chisels

Kevin French, Antrim, NH

>You don't have to flatten the whole back, just do the bottom 1" or 1/2"

Re: Buck Bros chisels

John Longwitz-Doraville, GA

>Thanks Kevin,

I'm a real rookie at this so going slow for now. I decided to practice on the carpenter grade Buck Bros set I got at Lowe's awhile back before messing with quality steel. I got a Norton 220/1000 waterstone for starters but haven't set it up yet. Will get 4000/8000 later when my honing technique and pocketbook improve.

Re: Buck Bros chisels

Angelo in Cornwall, NY

>John, I'm a relative newbie at this to, so take what I have to say with a grain of salt. In my experience, scary sharp is the easiest way to get up and running smaking stuff sharp. Not a whole lot of cash outlay, just some glass, adhesive, w/d sandpaper, and a honing guide. I have rehabbed a fair number of older chisels, and made handles for just about all of them. I find that flattening, while removing the patina, is no more objectionable then the freshly honed bevel. I have also found that an incorrectly polished back will make for a poorly functioning chisel.

Angelo

Working on filling out a set of Buck Brothers beveled edge tang chisels

Very Long

Jim in Burlington Ontario

>John I understand the fine line your trying to walk. A couple things about me I started to seriously useing and sharpen hand tool a year and half ago. I have spent approx $1500 on sharpening and flattening stones, glass and microabrasive sand paper. I would definitely flatten only the last 1" of so of the chisels. I would get the stone you bought in water and leave it there a nice plastic tub with a lid. The stone cuts faster which is what I want. Don't expect to sit down and sharpen the whole lot in one go. It has taken me several sessions to achieve the slice it like tissue. Flatten your stone's often. I haven't seen David Charlesworths sharpening video but it is on my list. I have take a Rob Cosman sharpening and hand planing and dovetailing courses and as far as I can tell flawlessly sharpened tools quickly. Shiny is not sharp. Flat with the smallest scratches that you can barely see with 30x magnifing glass is sharp. If it's not flat it can never been truely sharp. The stones don't come flat so flatten it first. If your chisels really need some big work use more agressive paper I wouldn't go below 400 grit. The ultra high end paper for polishing is worth every penny. Other things helfully for sanding a good grinder with a very course and a white 80 grit wheel. A 1" belt sander with the disc sander on the side the disc is a excellent way to take your time and slowly grind the primary bevel yo can buy a leather surgi sharp belt and 1200 grit belts for polishing. The next piece of sharpening equipement will be the LV Veritas Mark 2 power sharpener.I did buy a diamond stone and thought it wore out to fast. I have also ordered diamond powder that Bill Tindall was kind enough to recommend and should come next week. So the gist is there are no stupid questions ask away. I have tried them all and still very much enjoy my stones a LV jig my 3" square listening to the music and relaxing.