The unsung heroes

Lead on!

Bob Hackett

>

78 Duplex filletster and rabbet plane

Jonathan Peck - N.Y.

>Feeling a little hung over and uncreative, I've snipped this from Patrick's B&G. Sorry for the lack of enthusiasm today

78 Duplex filletster and rabbet plane, 8 1/2"L (8 1/4", 1936 on), 1 1/2"W, 3lbs, 1885-1973.

This is another popular Stanley plane, on which the company built a great fortune. Nearly every workman of the time had one of these planes in their kits. This plane was so popular and functional, that it still is made today. Any handtool enthusiast should consider this plane, or one like it, be it a competitor's or a wooden version, as part of his arsenal.

The plane has two beds for the cutter - one positioned for normal work, and the other for bullnose work. The cutter has no cap iron, and is held in place by a thumb screw activated lever cap. Earlier models, with the common floral vines cast into the handle, required hand adjustment to set the iron, but in 1925, a lever, which engages machined grooves in the backside of the iron, was provided to accomplish this. Around 1910, the handle has a fish scale-like pattern cast into it.

There is an adjustable depth stop on the right hand side of the plane, secured in place by a thumb screw. Directly below the depth stop, is a three-pronged spur to score the grain that sits flush with the side of the plane. It can be turned up out of the way when it isn't needed. There is no spur on the left of the plane.

A rod, threaded on one end, is used as the arm on which the fence is secured. The arm can be attached either to the left of the plane, for working right-handed, or to the right of the plane, for reversing the plane to work left-handed. This is a nice feature designed to handle problem grain while working. However, there is no provision for the depth stop on the left side of the plane, so you'll need to plane to a gauged line, or do it by eye, when using the plane left-handed. The threaded rod has a hole drilled through it on its end. This hole permits a nail, or something similar, to pass through it in order to tighten or loosen the rod. Many of the rods are bent right where the threads start so check this area by unscrewing the rod - you'll notice whether it's bent as you unscrew it.

The fence is secured to the arm with a thumb screw. Sometimes you'll find examples where the thumb screw is replaced with a slotted round head screw. This is due either to the thumb screw being misplaced, or the original thumb screw being stripped. Also, the fence is sometimes broken; when the fence is attached to the left side of the plane, the back portion of the fence is longer than the front portion by about 3/4". Look at the fence, with the thumb screw toward you. The aperture for the arm should noticeably be to the left.

#71 Router plane

Jonathan Peck - N.Y.

>Also from Patrick's B&G

#71 Router plane, 7 1/2"L (7 5/8", 1962 on), various widths, 2 5/8lbs, 1885-1973.

And here you thought routers are the stuff of the modern workshop. Nope! They've been around much longer than the abNORMal kind has, but these kind ain't the 'lectrical kind. These kind are pushed or pulled, and are suited for smoothing the bottom of a groove, mortice, or whatever, which is lower than the general surface of the piece being worked. They were very popular tools, especially with patternmakers and stairbuilders. Every shop should have one. Stanley's minister of propaganda, in a leaflet distributed with the tool, stated:

"For surfacing the bottom of grooves or other depressions parallel to the surface of the work. There are many applications in pattern making cabinet work and in fact almost all kinds of woodworking that call for these tools. They are particularly practical for routing dadoes for shelves, stair stringers or where pieces of hardware are to be recessed into the surface or edge of a board, such as large hinges or lock strikes, etc. It is not possible to show all these, but the user will soon discover places where these tools will prove their value."

They are sorta D-shaped, with two turned hardwood knobs (beech or maple) on each end. The knobs flank an adjustable L-shaped cutter, which protrudes through a large, circular opening in the plane's sole. A grooved post receives the cutter, which is locked into position by a thumb screw activated clamping collar. This collar, as well as the cutters, are very easy to lose, and these planes are often found minus them. The grooved post is also grooved on its backside so that the cutter can be reversed, making the plane function in a bull nose fashion.

Originally, it came with only two cutters - 1/4"W and 1/2"W. These two cutters are ground to a straight edge, so that they operate just like a paring chisel. They weren't well suited for smoothing, due to tearout, so a third, patented cutter was added in 1917. This one is V-shaped.to make it function like a plough (the farmer's kind) as it cuts the wood. The earliest version of this cutter is a one-piece construction, and can sometimes be found with the patent date stamped in its shank. Because the V cutter has two bevels on it, it proved difficult to grind and hone. Subsequently, the cutter became a two-piece design so that the end be removed for sharpening. Late production models of this plane have all three of their cutters graduated in 1/16ths along their shanks for fine adjusting.

The plane underwent many modifications during its production by Stanley. The first of which was arching the portion of the sole, forward of the cutter, into an open throat configuration. This was done ca. 1890. Then, probably during the mid-1890's, a mechanism to close the throat's opening was added so that the plane could work narrow surfaces, like grooving the edge of a board, to add lateral stability to the tool. This mechanism, or 'shoe' as Stanley called it, attaches to the round depth gauge rod that slips through the arched area of the main casting and 'closes' the throat to give more of a bearing surface, or sole, on the tool. It took Stanley a few designs to get this right as the first design of the shoe has a separate cutter collar casting that projects forward to carry the shoe and the depth gauge rod. Stanley soon redesigned this to the simpler method most are familir with today; the newer design was less costly to manufacture and much easier to use. The shoe's use is very limited for most work, but functions best as a depth stop, which is explained next.

At the same time the shoe was added, a round depth gauge rod was made part of the shoe clamping assembly. This rod controls the tool's depth of cut as the cutter is adjusted deeper. It permits consistency from cut to cut, which would be difficult to achieve were the rod not provided. The rod has a smaller diameter portion on one end. The use of the stop might not be intuitive to most, but it's very easy to use and rather clever in its simple operation. The rod is slipped through the round opening for it, atop the arched portion of the main casting, so that the smaller diameter is downward. The tshoe is then slipped onto the rod (over the large diameter) so that the shoe is above the arched portion of the main casting. The rod is then positioned to the desired depth (relative to the sole of the main casting) and the screw of the shoe is tightened onto the rod. The rod is left free to move up/down through the arched portion of the main casting - do not tighten the screw to lock it in place. As the cuts are made, the rod will slip down toward the casting until the shoe stops it from moving downward anymore. Once the shoe makes contact with the arched portion of the main casting, the desired depth has been reached. Pretty simple, eh?

Next, in 1902, a vernier cutter adjustment mechanism was added to the grooved post; the cutters were redesigned to have a notch at their top to engage a wheel, which traverses a threaded rod to regulate the cutter's depth. This vernier adjustment made it possible to make fine advances in the cutter's set than is normally made when done manually. The feature makes it possible to advance the cutter in successive fine increments as the recess is cut deeper and deeper; i.e., instead of hacking out the recess with just a few settings of the iron, you rout the area with the cutter in a fine set, loosen the blade clamping collar, turn the vernier wheel a bit, clamp the cutter firmly, then rout the area. This procedure is repeated over and over until the desired depth is reached.

In 1909, countersunk (from above) screw holes, through the sole, were added to allow wood bottoms or fences to be attached. This allows the tools to work recesses that are larger than the tool is wide. In other words, the tool can be made physically 'larger' by attaching a wooden sole to it.

In the same year, 1909, the shoe to close the throat was redesigned and repositioned so that it became part of the arched portion of the main casting. During this redesign, the depth gauge rod was repositioned, and in fact, the shoe attaches directly to the rod.

An adjustable fence, which is screwed to the sole, was added in 1939. It is fastened to the underside of the tool's sole by means of a single screw and washer, both of which are often missing. Two small screw holes that flank a larger screw hole (on either side of the cutter) indicate whether your version originally came equipped with the fence. The sole is also grooved to receive the fence. The fence is used for the times when the cutter is run parallel to an edge. The fence has a straight edge for straight work, and the other side is curved to allow the tool to follow either concave or convex edges.

As is the case with many Stanley planes, the first models were japanned. The earlier models have maple handles that are finished with a clear varnish. Toward the close of the last century, they became nickel plated. This plane follows that same course. The later models have hardwood knobs that are painted black, while even later models have composition or plastic knobs. The plane is still being made in England, but its quality pales in comparison to the older American versions.

You'll also see many of these planes cast in brass. Stanley never made them in this metal. The source of these brass planes is from the many patternmakers who made copies of ones they borrowed. It is an easy plane to make, and with it being particularly useful in the patternmaking trade, it was inevitable that enterprising patternmakers would 'roll their own' and save themselves some dinero.

#80 Cabinet scraper

Jonathan Peck - N.Y.

>#80 Cabinet scraper, 11"L (11 1/2", 1947 on), 2 3/4"W, 1 3/4lbs, 1898-1984.

The common scraper that many a cabinetmaker owned, if he didn't want to burn his fingers. The middle portion of the cast iron tool is semi-rectangular in shape and has two handles, sorta gullwing-like, which flank the 'rectangle'. The blade is fit into a milled 'bed' of the rectangular area and is secured in place with a flat bar of metal; the blade tilts toward the flat bar. The flat bar puts pressure against the blade by means of two thumb screws that thread into the main casting; this arrangement is what secures the blade to the tool, and a nail pushed through the holes in the thumb screws permits the blade to be secured tightly. To the rear of the blade, on the other side of the casting, is another thumb screw, which when turned puts some pressure on the blade from behind causing the blade to bow or spring. This action puts a slight curve on the blade and is, in essence, the blade's depth adjuster; turning the thumb screw to the right increases the blade's set, while turning it to the left decreases it. The handles each have a hole drilled in them so that it can be hung out of the way.

The blade is ground to a 45 degree bevel and has the hook turned toward the flat side of the blade. When the blade is inserted into the tool (do this from the sole so that you don't injure the burr), be sure that the hook is oriented so that it's toward the direction in which the blade leans. The tool is pushed with the blade leaning away from you. A solid grip and moderate downward pressure on the handles will have you scraping in no time. Your fingers will thank you daily when you use this common tool. The one knock on the tool is that it doesn't have the fine adjusting mechanism that the #12 family of scrapers do and that the blade can't be pitched for optimal performance on a given wood like the #12 can.

The entire plane is japanned, but the thumb screws and flat bar are nickel plated. The tool's vintage can be determined by the logo stamped on the flat bar and on the cutter. The first model of the scraper has the leading edge (relative to the direction the tool is pushed) of the main casting cast straight across, whereas the later models have the same edge cast convex. The earliest model has the patent date embossed into the tool

Re: #71 Router plane

Patrick Gibbons

>When I was building my bench a while back I had a blemish on the tabletop, the nature of which I can't remember. It was either a knot or a gap, but it was something that I considered to be more than just cosmetic as a problem. It's location would have made using a router (the 'letrical kind) dangerous. I chiseled it out, leveled it with my handy-dandy #71 and replaced it with an appropriate piece of wood. The repair was made simple by the router plane. In a recent FWW, Mario Rodriquez answering a question concerning router planes dismissed them as unnecessary in today's woodworking world because of the existence of electrical routers. Stanley recently "rationalized" their product line and the router plane was one of the items to go. Well, I'm glad I have mine. I don't use it on every project but find when I do use it that there are no easy substitutes.

Re: #80 Cabinet scraper

Larry Marshall

>Hi Jonathan,

I finally got a #80 and I agree that it's a great tool. My #78 is equally useful as you've mentioned. I've yet to score a #71 but I've sure bid often enough on eBay :-)

I'm writing, however, because I've got a question. One end of my #80 blade is ground to a shallow radius. I've left it that way, allowing myself to stare at it on a regular basis. In spite of this, I can't envision a reason to use a scraper plane with a radiused blade. Any ideas?

Cheers --- Larry

Re: 778...Record Gets the 78 Right!

Todd Stock

>

Let us not forget its

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>little brother the 271 also;)

Some crazy thoughts...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>It could have been used on a curved surface. Or by putting a curve on the blade when you tighten the screw that bows the blade you could possibly get a true straight edge.

Really I don't have a clue, just guessing.

Sounds like...

Jonathan Peck - N.Y.

>...a user modification for a specific task, but I have no idea what for. Perhaps someone else will know. File it flat is my suggestion

Re: The unsung heroes

glh

>I don't have the #78 or #71, but I've almost gotten the #71 on a couple of occasions, and given some consideration to the #78 that Record makes. Is it as good as the older version?

I do have a #80 and use it often. I consider it one of the best values out there. Recently, I added a second blade and got a Hock replacement. The Hock is beefer than the original but works well and cuts down on chatter and stays sharp somewhat longer, but it cost about as much as the #80. Also, I've heard the Veritas cabinet scraper is an improvement over the #80.

One more..making a scratch stock *LINK*

Jonathan Peck - N.Y.

>Here's a link to Stephen Shepherds ilovewood site:


Making a scratch stock

Never tried the 778...

Jonathan Peck - N.Y.

>...can you elaborate some?

Re: The unsung heroes

Charles

>Agree. I use them all the time. No hoopla, no pampering, no whimpering. Three tools that do a job for the woodworker.

Re: The unsung heroes

Alan Hamilton

>I am the happy owner of a #71. It is invaluable for hinge mortises, lock strikes, the ends of stop-grooves, and the like. I regularly use my #271 to level the bottom of the female half of sliding dovetail joints.

I also have Record's version of the #78--which I rank as superior to the Stanley. It's a real delight to use; it's a simple design that works beautifully. It's a great tool. I often use it without the fence for such things as roughing out the shoulders of a raised panel (that way I don't have to sharpen my panel raiser as often).

My #80 regularly gets a workout. It's great for glue lines and really heavy duty scraping chores.

Now that Stanley has made bad decisions--yet again--about what tools to make, does anyone know of another source of irons for #71s and #271s? I got both used, and I fear there may come the time...

Alan

Re: Never tried the 778... *LINK*

Todd Stock

>Jonathan:

A #78 with double fence rods (fully addressing fence alignment, a weak point on the #78), a functional depth adjustment mechanism, and the same nice feel in the hand as the original.

#78s can be had for less, so still a 'must have', but given my choice, I'll take the #778 for all but the stock that requires a skew (e.g., 289).

Here's a link for the #778, which last I heard is still in production - at least where Record is still a brand.


Record 778

Why right here Alan... *LINK*

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>Look down the page a bit.


St James Bay Tool Co.

Re: Never tried the 778...

John Horobin

>The #778 is still in production but now made in China like the other "Record" planes. If its marked Record Irwin its chinese.

John

No, mine came that way too

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>Stanley clearly didn't consider it the standard use, since it was at the top, not the bottom, and came complete with a little black plastic cover.

Re: Some crazy thoughts...

Larry Marshall

>It's my guess that you're right about the 'special use' and/or for 'scraping a curved surface'. The curve is no symmetrical so I don't think it was factory ground. I'll just stop staring at it and regrind it. thanks.

Cheers --- Larry

Re: Never tried the 778...

Larry Marshall

>Very interesting, Todd. If there's one thing I'd change on my #78 it would be to add a rod to the back of the fence a la the Record. I never noticed that the 778 had one.

Cheers --- Larry

Re: Curved scraping

Moses Yoder in White Pigeon, MI

>Coopering panels and then fairing them is a common way to make curved panels. I've made a round bottom plane to fair the concave side of the panel, and made a fairly large radius on the plane bottom, but it does not match most of the curved panels I make. It is fairly easy though to remove a lot of wood with the round plane and then finish fairing the panel with a scraper. The convex side of the panel would be easily faired with a #80 with a blade curved to match; I'll have to keep that in mind next time I cooper a panel.

Re: Never tried the 778...

Todd Stock

>Only an issue when the fence is outboard of the body, as when used as a filletster. While the 78 fence will maintain the setting from fence to body, it will rotate if a flat is not filed on the rod or really cranked down.

I've wondered why both the 289 and the 78 came without a milled flat on the rod. My guess is that they were seldom used as anything other than rabbet planes, so it was not a big deal.

Re: Why right here Alan...

Alan Hamilton

>Scott,

Thank you, thank you, thank you.

I don't know why I didn't think of Saint James Bay; I usually go there first looking for Stanley stuff Stanley doesn't make any more.

Alan