Attn: C Schwarz - Bench detail as promised

Rough timber

Andrew F in Australia

>Old house frame - old growth hardwood, numerous species. Nil cost

Rough timber

Andrew F in Australia

>Old house frame - old growth hardwood, numerous species. Nil cost

Benchtop layout (approx 96" by 24" finished size)

Andrew F in Australia

>Benchtop - face jointed by hand - white marks are 1/2" dowels to show spacing.

Pic taken prior to glueup

Gluing on front apron 

Andrew F in Australia

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Base joinery -

Andrew F in Australia

>side rails - barefaced mortice and tenon

Leg to foot - M &T

Leg to top rail - Bridle joint

Shelves are tight inside groove run inside rail. Provide racking resistance

Re: Base joinery - cont

Andrew F in Australia

>Peg to hold top in place - top is separate from base - trench cut into underside of top straddles the top rail of the base.

Two dowels keep top from sliding - placed at opposite corners of the base.

Re: Base joinery - cont 

Andrew F in Australia

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Underside of benchtop - joinery to base 

Andrew F in Australia

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Detail - screw hole in apron 

Andrew F in Australia

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Re: Detail - breadboard end near vice 

Andrew F in Australia

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Finished bench

Andrew F in Australia

>Minus tail vice and dogholes.

maybe if I get 12 hours around Xmas time I might pop them in then.

Bench is about 35" high - I get back pain on a 33" bench planing, so I raised this one a bit.

So far, so good

Re: Stiffening braces (rub glue joint) under shelf 

Andrew F in Australia

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Re: Finished bench opposite view

Andrew F in Australia

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Oops - pic

Andrew F in Australia

>Screws are in a local timber (flindersia sp.. - Qld Silver Ash) 1.5" x 6tpi, approx 15" long

Distance between centres of screw are 26", giving a touch over 24" clearance between screw

Re: Attn: C Schwarz - Bench detail as promised

Christopher Schwarz

>Andrew,

Thanks for the pictures. I'll look them over tonight . The finished results looks quite good.

Chris

Thanks Chris/Note to all

Andrew F in Australia

>Thanks Chris,

The pics are 35K and 72dpi, but show up as thumbnails - it's operator error at this end, but I don't know how to fix it (can anyone help me understand this???). If you save them to your desktop, you can magnify them up by 300% or so and still get enough detail to see what's going on.

All,

This sort of thing is what I do for a living these days (teaching schoolkids joinery and furniture construction/design).

I posted these pics very early in the morning here. Sorry for the abbreviated point form - had more to do with a lack of sleep and matter-of-fact comments on detail than any intended terseness on my part. I've put them up here as another data point for those that are designing a bench. This thing's pretty rock solid.

Someone's volunteered to host the pictures for a bit so that they can be used if you wish. Obviously, it won't happen overnight but the offer is very kind and gratefully accepted.

In the meantime, if anyone wants a detail pic, I'll do an email distribution in a day or so - let me know if you want a pic in more detail (& which one).

Cheers,

Andrew

Re: Thanks Chris/Note to all

Wiley Horne--Glendora CA

>Hi Andrew,

The bench is grand!! And your good efforts to get photos published is much appreciated. You're right: the thumbnails don't do the project (or your own efforts) justice, and it will be good to see a proper presentation once the hosting is set up. The making of this bench from scratch would also be a great article if there were ever time to write it up--I think many people with the design/build decision ahead of them would take inspiration from it.

Meantime, I have a question regarding the twin-screw vise you have made. Specifically, how did you do the threading? Did you use a thread-box? Or do you use a system employing a router, such as a Beall's threader? I'd like to know exactly how this is done, and whether it is a problem keeping the stock straight as you are applying the thread. Also, is the wooden screw threaded through the apron alone, or through both the apron and the internal member parallel to it.

Both your twin-screw, and Adam Cherubini's similar one from an earlier thread, are very appealing and it would be nice to know exactly how to make one.

Thank you, Wiley

Re: Thanks Chris/Note to all *LINK*

Roger Nixon

>Hi Andrew,

You are welcome to post the pictures in the picture gallery on my website (up to 80k in size) and then you can link to them here or elsewhere. In the galleries you can upload the pictures directly from your computer.


Traditional Tools Galleries

Vice threads

Andrew F in Australia

>Hullo Wiley,

I've got the URL's of the bench pics - now I've got to figure out how to post them (HTML isn't my strong point). Stay tuned.

Vice threads were done with a USD45- wood threading kit (chinese). There's a guide going into the die, and the tap is just like using any other. Not hard - the hardest part is figuring out how to resharpen the cutters (vee chisel)when they go and then realigning them accurately. Note also, to avoid crushing threads, the cutters do not have a secondary bevel - regrind at the same angle as the primary bevel.

You need to lubricate the thread stock with linseed oil or similar prior to threading, but it's just like peeling an apple once you get going.

The wooden screw is threaded through the apron and attached to the vice face with a garter. (spins free in the jaw)

I'm not entirely happy with the amount of racking that's present (note that to avoid racking, the handle of the vice has to be large enough to reach the top of the vice jaw.) Still acceptable reaches, but.

Not to worry - probably on the weekend I'll drill a hole in the bottom centre of the vice jaw and thread the hole, then make a wooden screw to set the vice jaw gap - eg: turn a two point vice into a stable three point vice.

Hope that this helps,

Andrew

Thanks Roger, will do in a couple of days.

Andrewf in Australia

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Workbench pictures posted on Roger Nixon's site *LINK*

Andrew F in Australia

>Thanks for the offer, Roger


link to workbench construction pictures