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questions on backsaw, saw jointer feature *LINK*

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questions on backsaw, saw jointer feature *LINK*

#1

questions on backsaw, saw jointer feature *LINK*

Ryan Selberg in Salt Lake City

>I recently picked up a nice 14" Keen Kutter backsaw in excellent shape, just needing rejointing and sharpening. My question here is who made backsaws for Keen Kutter/E.C Simmons? It has a beautiful fruitwood handle, and the blade is nice and straight. I'm just curious about the lineage of Keen Kutter saws.

My other question is concerning a feature of an E.C. Atkins saw jointer. I actually have found two of them, both in excellent condition. One included the original box, with two other saw sharpening/jointing parts, and is labeled the "Atkins Climax Saw Tools." The box has the original instructions printed on it, mostly legible. However, there is a feature of the jointer which is not clear as to its useage. There is an identical jointer, made by Champion, at the accompanying link. If anyone can explain the piece that is slightly lower than the top ridge, with the slot in it, I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks,

Ryan


Champion saw jointer

Re: questions on backsaw, saw jointer feature *LINK*

#2

Re: questions on backsaw, saw jointer feature

Joe Rogers, Northern Virginia

>I'm working from memory here recalling a saw jointer I researched from the saw set page(now defunct).

The rakers on a misery whip are jointed lower than the cutters. The rakers are the V shaped teeth. The rakers are indexed through the slit and jointed down to the proper height. Best I can recall. JR

Re: questions on backsaw, saw jointer feature *LINK*

#3

Reading between the lines

Adam Cherubini, NJ

>Do you want to use a saw jointer for a timber saw on a backsaw?

Adam

Re: questions on backsaw, saw jointer feature *LINK*

#4

Re: Reading between the lines

Ryan Selberg in Salt Lake City

>I found the first of the two jointers in a local antique mall, and as I am trying to assemble a collection of saw sharpening tools, thought it looked like a nice jointer, although I was puzzled by the slotted attachment. It looks virtually identical to the Champion jointer, but is embossed with the EC Atkins logo. It also has a screw adjustment for the file clamp. It held an obviously used mill file. I had no idea of its use for timber saws. I showed it to one of the guys at Woodcraft, who was unsure of its use, but gave me the link to TIAS to try to find info on it. In their pages of available tools, I spotted the Champion, plus the Atkins Climax which had the additional parts, plus using a cam action to hold the file. It has the Atkins embossed name, plus dates of June 23, 03. With the incentive to have the original instructions, I took a chance on it, and now wonder if it can indeed be useful for conventional crosscut/rip saws, or backsaws. It would seem to be adjustable enough to keep the file flat and perpendicular to the saw and might be useful. I had wondered if a handle of some kind were attached to the slot, or to the two grooves between the slotted attachment and the body of the jointer.

I would still appreciate any additional thoughts or info on the jointer, or on the Keen Kutter backsaw.

Ryan

Re: questions on backsaw, saw jointer feature *LINK*

#5

Re: questions on backsaw, saw jointer feature *LINK*

Kevin F, New Zealand

>This link tells you all you want to know about crosscut saw use and maintenance, and the various uses of jointers and combination saw tools. I can't quite visualise it from the link you provide, but in most tools the piece with the slot in it is to allow you to file the raker teeth just the right amount shorter than the cutter teeth.

Cheers

Kevin


Crosscut saw manual

Re: questions on backsaw, saw jointer feature *LINK*

#6

Jointing Hand saws

Adam Cherubini, NJ

>I guess your saw jointer would work but why bother?

Here's what I do:

For regular rip saws, I like a salmon belly. I don't want a straight edge. Free hand is fine for this. Use a fine mill file.

For joinery saws, (DT, Tenon) I prefer a dead straight saw.

Let's take a break for a minute: When jointing a saw that already has teeth, a really light touch and fine file are required. You just want to get all the teeth the same height. For an old rusty flea market tool, just lightly kiss the tops of the brown teeth until each tooth has a shiny top. If one or two teeth are still low, skip them and move on. Eventually, they'll be back.

Okay so back to joinery saws, again depending on how pointy the teeth are, you may be better off jointing on a piece of 200 grit SiC sand paper on a flat surface.

Now I'm not suggesting a specialty tool is EVER a bad idea. I'm just thinking your saw jointer may be unnecessary for hand saws.

Adam

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