Throat Plates on Infill planes

Re: Throat Plates on Infill planes

Tom MacGregor, Vermont

>I have no idea if closing the throat in this way would work, but you'd need a constant thickness piece of wood all the way to the top. If you angle a piece just to the level of the existing hard wood (a wedge shape) you will create a gap behind the blade. A tapered piece from top to bottom would change the cutting angle. I wonder if that would work if you WANTED to change the cutting angle?

Re: Throat Plates on Infill planes

Dan Clermont in Burnaby

>Hi Tom,

If you wanted to change the angle of the blade you'd have to wedge the throat plate and then replace the rear infill to match.

If you wanted to keep the bedding angle you'd have to epoxy a piece of wood onto the throat plate and then replace the rear infill as well or extend it somehow to match the new throat plate.

Dan Clermont in Burnaby

Re: Throat Plates on Infill planes

joel

>Adding a bit of veneer near the mouth of a plane or adding it near the handle were traditional simple ways of either closing down, or opening up the mouth of a plane. You don't have to glue it in either - pressure will keep it in place.

Re: Throat Plates on Infill planes

Cameron

>I'm with Joel on this one. This is what was traditionally done and is quite acceptable.

Re: Throat Plates on Infill planes

Cameron

>Forgot to answer the first question. The heel plate is there for stability and helps to reduce chatter on heavy cuts.

Re: Throat Plates on Infill planes

Steve knight

>if the sole is thicker it is not needed. I made mine with 1/4" thick soles and I did not need the plate. but hand cutting 1/4" steel is a bitch (G)

Re: Throat Plates on Infill planes

Cameron

>Likewise they're not needed on mitre planes because, due to the bed angle, there's plenty of "meat" in the sole itself.