Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
What's your favorite wax for hand tools?
Wendell @ Murphy, TX
>I have a can of clear Briwax that I put on had tools occassionally. I am not really happy with the performance though. I suppose it lubricates well enough but it doesn't seem to supply much rust inhibitance. Just wondering what everybody else uses.
Wendell
Re: What's your favorite wax for hand tools?
Dave (Arlington, VA)
>Hi Wendell -
I share your disappointment in Briwax, in terms of its ability to inhibit rust. However, just a few days ago, I tried again. This time I applied a thick coat and let is sit for two or three hours. Then I went back and rubbed it in. You could actually see the layer of wax. I suppose more of the solvents had evaporated leaving behind a greater concentration of the wax components (just speculation on my part).
Only time will tell if it does any better with rust using this technique. I share your interest in what others will have to say on this.
Regards -
Dave
Make your own
Dennis
>I make my own, basic recipe,by volume is 8parts beeswax,parts carnuba,20parts mineral spirits.
Just melt the wax in double boiler pan on low heat and then take outside and add the mineral spirits. The more carnuba you add the harder it is but the harder it is to rub out. If it dries out just add some mineral spirits and let set few days.
I find when using it, best to apply and wait 24hrs to rub out.
Dennis
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Renaissance Wax *LINK*
David Barnett
>Renwax is a superb microcrystalline conservator's wax. Leaves a hard barrier suface that's great for preventing rust and protecting patina on tools, sculpture, jewelry, and so on. And leather, paper, photographs...
Seems pricey if you've never used it before, but lasts and lasts.
Renaissance Wax
More info at Highland Hardware *LINK*
David Barnett
>More about use on both hand and electron-killing tools.
Highland Hardware (RenWax)
Re: Renaissance Wax
Fred Krow
>David,
I agree with the Ren wax for rust protection. I purchased mine about 4-5 years ago at a knife show. The wax is applied very thin and forms a tough film that protects metals from oxidation for a long time. The LN bronze planes stay clean and slippery with this product.
Regards,
Fred
A valuable tool in itself
David Barnett
>Fred,
About a year and a half ago I moved back to Florida from Massachusetts, about 1000 feet from the Gulf. First thing I did was wax all the iron, big and small. To date, not a speck of rust. All the big power tools live in the garage, too.
It's great on handsaws and plane soles, of course, and files and rasps don't load up as easily, and so on. I could live without it, I suppose, but I wouldn't like to.
I've got 2/3rds of a jar left, and I use it nearly everyday on bearing and setting burs, needle files (22k can be really gummy)... oh hell, everything.
David
Re: Renaissance Wax-agree
Lyn J. Mangiameli
>
Ren Wax - another view
Paul Barnard
>I have a tin of Ren Wax and to be frank I wasn't impressed. I have tried a number of different waxes and the one that I have stuck with is Goddard's cabinate makers wax.
I'm one of lifes unfortunates who has very corrosive sweat, I just have to touch a plane and it gets a rusty finger print. I keep a waxy rag on hand and wipe down my tools after every use.
Re: Goddard's Cabinetmaker's Wax
Mark Meier (Ann Arbor, MI)
>I too like Goddard's Cabinetmaker's Wax. Based on detailed scientific investigation, careful review of the facts, and thorough analysis of all available data, I've concluded that is has the most pleasant scent (lemon) and nicest looking tin (yellow with fancy lettering).
Goddard's now a Johnsons Wax brand
David Barnett
>Before 1968, when Goddard's was still Goddard's, it was supposedly even better, too, although the fragrance is still wonderful and the tin seems the same. Apparently, when Johnsons actually started manufacturing wax under the Goddard's name in 1970, it became easier to buff, more like the other Johnsons paste wax, and lost that 'drier' waxy look, but that might have been old-timer resistance to change. All hearsay. I have no personal experience with Goddard's, though, so I can't say. It takes me so long to go through wax, I don't try as many as I used to. Right now I'm using Liberon on wood. I don't use RenWax on furniture; just on everything else.
My favorite wood waxes were made in Costa Rica by Harris, but I haven't seen them in years. They were costly, came in three lustres, and had lots of antioxidants, but they smelled like coal tar, or more precisely, like Icthammol ointment. Whew!
Maybe a pinch of PABA and a shot of lemon verbena would fix up my Liberon's so I could have the best of both. Almost anything would smell better than Briwax, though.
Waxes are too much fun to just use one.
Re: What's your favorite wax for hand tools?
Mark Harrison -- in Sydney, Australia
>I've been using Liberon Lubricating Wax. It is the best I've tried and I live very near to the sea.
Waxes are too much fun to just use one! LOL!
Greg B�tit, Vergennes, VT
>
Re: Goddard's now a Johnsons Wax brand
Bob Hackett
>The old Goddard`s used to be in a different colored tin(tan W/black lettering)and the wax was pink and smelled like lilac.I still have two tins that my father bought decades ago.It was his favorite wax too.I still use it on his planes.
Mainely,Bob
Re: Goddard's now a Johnsons Wax brand
David Barnett
>Lilacs! Even better!
Time to break out the essential oils.
Re: Make your own
Wendell @ Murphy, TX
>Dennis the parts of carnuba wax are missing from your recipe. When you say parts, is this equal parts by volume or by weight? I was reading someone else's recipe for wax. They mentioned that you could shave the wax and just put the flakes in the mineral spirits. The flakes would dissolve. Have you tried this? They also added BLO to their recipe which sounded like it might make a nice finish for tool handles but not very good metal surfaces.
Wendell
Re: Make your own
Dennis
>Sorry about that , i use 8 bees,3 carnuba,20 mineral by volume. And yes you can just shave the wax, a old cheese grater works,mix and let it set. Takes couple weeks that way and have to stir every couple days. I just think its better,quicker to heat it.
As for adding BLO,tung oil dunno never tried it,same with dye to color it but some say that works also.
I did try equal parts bees and carnuba one time, it took for ever to buff out by hand, but worked like Hut wax on the lathe.
One good thing is you can reheat and add more bees or carnuba to make it harder or softer anytime you like.
Dennis
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None
Steven Wilson
>I use camilleo oil and then keep my planes in plane socks, prevents rust better than any wax I've tried.
OT/HIJACK: Essential Oils?
Don Thompson - South of Miami
>OK, what exactly is an essential oil?
Re: Ren Wax - another view
Dmitri
>Can any one comment on Jonson's Paste Wax?
I used it on a small coffee table I made, but it does
not hold very well, which is not surprising considering
abuse that table receives. I use it for rust protection
as well and camelia oil on plane irons and chisels.
Do I do something wrong? Would the other wax be an
improvement?
Re: Make your own
Dmitri
>Did you try to add any essential oils to give it a pleasant scent?
Definition: Essential Oils
David Barnett
>Essential oil (noun)
"Any of various volatile organic oils present in plants, usually containing terpenes and esters and having the odour or flavour of the plant from which they are extracted: used in flavouring and perfumery"
(http://www.wordreference.com/english/definition.asp?en=essential%20oil)
"Essential oils (Chem.), a class of volatile oils, extracted from plants, fruits, or flowers, having each its characteristic odor, and hot burning taste. They are used in essences, perfumery, etc., and include many varieties of compounds; as lemon oil is a terpene, oil of bitter almonds an aldehyde, oil of wintergreen an ethereal salt, etc.; -- called also 'volatile oils' in distinction from the fixed or nonvolatile."
(http://dict.die.net)
Re: Make your own
Dennis
>No , i use the no oder mineral spirits
Dennis
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Re: Make your own
Alan Hamilton
>Wendell,
What Dennis said! Two great minds think alike--sort of. I do exactly the same as Dennis, except I use turpentine instead of mineral spirits.
BTW, it is certainly possible to just shave or grate the wax into the solvent and wait for the wax to soften--except carnuba wax will not soften within your life time. Bees wax softens readily and quickly in solvent, but carnuba is too tough.
Alan
Tower of London
Adam Cherubini, NJ
>I saw something on TV years ago about the conservators at the Tower of London trying to keep suits of armor from rusting.
If I recall correctly they said wax and oil attract dust and dust attracted the water that caused rust. Their idea was to keep the metal clean- i.e. well dusted. Maybe a sock would work well. My tool chest seems to be doing a pretty good job as well. Maybe you should nuild a special case!!!!!!!!
Did any body else see that show or hear about this? I could be cracking up- I recently passed 40!
Adam
Is this my first senior moment?