Specialized router jig

Re: Specialized router jig

William Duffield

That’s a great technique.

For those who don’t like to tap holes for cap screws, drill untapped holes and install T-nuts from below.

Another gripping alternative to the cap screws that may be quicker to swap parts is to bore larger holes in the top board and use toggle clamps ( e.g. De-Sta-Co). You could eliminate the padding board since they have padded heads. You also would not need an Allen wrench to swap parts. I keep my jigs in case I need to make a similar part again but remove the clamps and move them on to the next jig.

The toggle clamp handles serve as the grips for feeding the parts through the router.

Re: Specialized router jig

John in NM

Thanks William!

I've worked with the toggle clamps before, I really don't care for them for a number of reasons. To each their own however, its another way of skinning the cat, and I've seen plenty of jigs that seem to work well with them.

Funny about using those machine taps in wood, it's actually harder than tapping metal. The wood is so soft that it is a bit tricky to start the tap plumb to the surface, something I rarely have trouble with even in soft metals like aluminum.

If I need to use this jig often, I'll probably make a new one using an aluminum plate for the template, and wood blocks large enough to accept threaded inserts for the body, then stick with the cap screws (you can get plastic knobs that make them a lot more pleasant to use) and the plywood flapper. The reason I like that bit of plywood in there is also the reason I largely dislike toggle clamps - friction is proportional to area per unit force. You get a better grip the way I'm doing it

Re: OK! Good Points!

William Duffield

You've obviously built them both ways, so you are better able to judge which way works better than I am.

Thanks for the tip on the knobs. I'm sure I'll find them useful. When you mentioned them, I went searching, but couldn't find any with a male hex head protruding from the inside center. But after I thought about it, I realized that the knobs need to grip the outside knurled surface, not the inside Allen socket. Doh! Now I know what to look for.

Re: Taps and threaded inserts

Steve jenkins

When I’m installing a threaded insert or tapping wood I take a piece of scrap about an inch thick and with the drill press drill a through hole just big enough for the tap or insert to fit through. Hold that down tight and it acts a vertical guide. Sometimes I do the same thing for the pilot hole.

Re: Taps and threaded inserts

William Duffield

I often chuck the tap in the drill press, provide downward pressure with my right hand, and turn the tap with the chuck key.

Re: Taps and threaded inserts

Larry Edinger

When Taping Wood I like to thread the wood then put soon CA Glue on the Threads and run the Tap back through!

Knobs *LINK*

John in NM

I've only ever bought them from McMaster Carr since we use them at work and that's where we order them. There are other sources though, without a doubt. They do indeed grip the outside of the head, though sometimes also have a bit of a nub in the center that gets stuck in the allen socket if you drop the thing and break it. Never understood the need of that


https://www.mcmaster.com/knobs/grip-style~knurled/mount-type~push-on/

That's a good idea...

John in NM

Especially for threaded inserts, which I find harder to start straight than the tap but worth the effort once installed.

The way I got around that with the inserts was to weld one to a spent 1/4" hex driver shaft and put it in my impact driver. Easier to run it in like a tap that way and the actual insert would then follow the cut threads.

Going to try your method next time though, always good to try a new thing or two.

Did that for the first few...

John in NM

Then got tired of turning the chuck because I hadn't thought of using the key for a lever Good ideas abound!

In all honesty....

John in NM

Most of my dislike of those toggle clamps is that I'm cheep, cheep, cheep

In spite of admitting that primary motivation, I still look for reasons to support the preference - we all like affirmation after all

Re: That's a good idea...

William Duffield

For threaded inserts, I cut the head off a bolt to fit the thread and jam 2 nuts on, about 1/4" to 1/2" from the end (depending on the size of the insert), chuck the tool in a bit brace and thread on the insert. A 12" or 14" sweep brace has more than enough torque for the densest woods, and you can put the board flat on the floor and put all your weight into the brace to prevent it backing out and stripping the threads. If you are trying to drive it into jarrah or ipe, you can flatten (3 or 4 flats, depending on your chuck) about an inch of threads with a file or grinder to keep it from twisting out of the chuck.

After I've driven the insert in, a quick counterclockwise snap of the brace loosens up the tool without backing out the insert.

NB the slot in the threaded insert is for removing it, not installng it.

Re: Taps and threaded inserts

William Duffield

I've used epoxy for that purpose, but I temporarily fill the threaded insert with melted candle wax so the epoxy doesn't clog the inside threads. To get it out, I just turn the assembly over after the epoxy has cured and heat the insert with a match, BBQ torch or heat gun.

Inserts

John in NM

The ones I'm using these days have a hex socket, I usually use that for installing them, but I imagine its there for removal from the installation arbor just like the slot on other types.

I had seen the instructions for one brand with that slot, I knew it went in first but I'll admit I didn't know what it was for (instructions were in German) - now I know

I used a lot of inserts when making copies of a gunstock for a German military surplus rifle from the 1960's. The wood stocks were reputedly made in Italy under 2-3 different contracts. In all the originals I've seen, the manufacturers didn't know that those slots weren't for installation either, every last one faces up. After trying to remove a few with a screwdriver, one quickly moves on to the shaft with jam nuts

Next time I make one of those stocks, I think I'll put the hex facing down (as it probably should be) and confuse the heck out of the customer!