Hi all, working on a cross cut sled. Question: how you insure that the miter slot rail is mounted perfectly parallel to the blade (or perpendicular to the cross cut fence)? I have an application that needs to me spot-on 90° and can't think of a way to register it or adjust it afterwards. Thanks!
I start with a sheet as big as I want the top to be. Then I put the slot guides in the saw top slots, and fasten down through the sled top with brads or staples well enough to hold them in place, then flip it over and attach better.
The with it setting on the saw with the blade down under the table, start the motor and slowly raise the blade so that it plunges up about 6" from the back, and slide it forward to within a few inches of coming out the front. Now I attach the back fence perpendicular to the saw cut.
I like to use 2" thick material for the front and back fences and at least 2" taller than the blades full height so whenever I need it for a deep cut, it doesn't get cut in half.
Paul, there are lots of ways to do what you want to do. Keith's is one that works well. I've built several crosscut sleds and, if you're not afraid of a little math, I've found this YouTube video linked below to the most accurate way to set the fence to perfect 90 Degrees to the cut line.
As for attaching the runners, I stick double stick tape on the runners, place them in the miter slots on your saw elevated with thin strips of wood underneath them to raise the tape to just slightly above the table surface. Butt the edge of the sled base against your rip fence, lower it down onto the taped runners and press down to make sure the tape bonds well the the bottom of the sled. Remove the sled, turn it over and fasten the runners to the sled with countersunk flat head screws. Be sure to use strong tape so the runners won't move before you get them screwed down. Add the back and front fences as instructed in the video and adjust the back fence to zero per the video. This has worked well for me.
I just made a new sled I wanted a light weight sled.
First I made the runner. Then I made a dado to fit the runner so it would trim the edge of the sled when I fed it thru the first time. Then I tuned up carpenters square and used the square to position the rail.
WHY IS IT SO HARD TO POST A PHOTO TO THIS SITE!!!!!!
Just built a new sled, used the 5 cut method. Works great. I located both fences 1/2” between the fence and the edge of the plywood to protect the fence whe being stored. That 1/2” overhang gave me a great place to do my measurements for adjustments.
That link worked for me, but I have a Google account.
I really like your weight saving idea. Mine, which is 26" deep, for cross cutting sheets of plywood and table tops, is much too heavy to be convenient, even though I store it right above my table saw top. I think the holes would also help me get a good grip on it when getting it down and putting it away.
However, I have a safety concern with short cutoffs not supported by the sled. I had one built that way. I took it apart after a short cutoff of a tropical hardwood (purpleheart) was slammed violently against the saw top, and bounced across the room as it dropped off the stick I was cutting and got caught in the saw blade teeth.