Painting / Sharp corners

A-B-C

Mark Mandell - Gone Round In New Jersey

A. Your painter's ignorance is showing. Regardless of his prior business experience, he should know not to touch cabinet parts without first getting clearance from the "cabinet guy." "A man's got to know his limitations."

B. His interference with your product (belongs to you until installed) has resulted in his complicating and extending both his and your time to complete the door install.

C. His attempt to interfere with the owner's business relationship with you is both unprofessional and potentially actionable. Not that you're going to a lawyer, but I'd make it clear to this "gent" to back off lest you make a real issue of it. He used to have a company with 40 employees? If this was how he operated, it's not too surprising he doesn't still have it. Blaming other craftsmen for your screw-ups ultimately comes back to haunt.

what "this"

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

dealing with the painter or easing sharp corners? I use a file and paint myself.

surface tension 

Mark Hennebury

I think keith is referring to surface tension and starved edges, ridges, etc. Generally thought that you need to have a softened /rounded edge to have paint have a nice even coat, sharp edges cause problems.

Re: surface tension

John McGaw

So that's what's wrong with my edges. I always just figured I was a crappy painter.

Re: A-B-C

Barry Irby

Some people have 40 years of experience and others have one year 40 times.

I agree with Mark.

Can't say what...

David Weaver

..site practice is for different people, but we had blum machines and some other fully automatic hingers at aristokraft when I was there, and we only hinged completely finished doors.

For those who are not used to production environments, the automatic hingers clamped the door, drilled the euro hinge holes (all three at once) and inserted a hinge in a matter of seconds.

The work surfaces were usually waxed MDF or some kind of manufactured material that was slick and hard, and we had constant positive air on the surface where the doors went (take a door off, but another on, and the air supply would blow everything that didn't get sucked into the machine off onto the floor so that it wouldn't mar a door).

if the painter is used to a shop with machines like that, they probably also like to hinge finished doors.

agree

John in NM

Same here, always round the corners. I like a chamfer on something to be oiled, but painted you gotta round them.

Thanks Mark, Not only that, but

Keith Newton

Sharp corners are also more fragile, and easier to knock splinters off.

I also failed to mention that the doors mentioned above were only sanded with a belt, and not finish sanded to the degree that I normally take my work to.

I suspect for this painter to run a crew that large, he must have been painting apartments where a lower level would be expected.

Re: Thanks Mark, Not only that, but

Barry Irby

Keith, try a router bit with an 1/8" radius round over or even a 1/16". Very quick, consistent, almost crisp looking. Better and faster than sand paper.

router

Clifton C

Barry, I do the same, cept with a chamfer bit and a trim router. Set to a heavy 64th or a light 32nd. But I still sand to round over. For me, it's quicker and I get more consistent results.

Re: Painting / Sharp corners

Don Stephan

How many "professional" painters bother to make sure the top and bottom of exterior doors are well sealed? One time a fellow stopped to show off what a great job he did refinishing a mahogany exterior door, on his way back to the owner's house. When I asked why the bottom edge was raw wood, he said wood had to be able to breathe.