Re: Is
John in NM
Not sure I've seen the leap from Schrodinger to Yoda quite that fast before! 
Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
Re: Is
John in NM
Not sure I've seen the leap from Schrodinger to Yoda quite that fast before! 
Okay, let's make some assumptions
Ellis Walentine
Our OP hasn't given us specifics on what he's trying to do. I've just emailed him to suggest he tell us his objective, specifically how big these squares are supposed to be, and a blow-by-blow account of his procedure that isn't working. But, regardless, lets consider what it takes to cut perfectly square pieces of plywood. For the sake of argument, let's assume he' trying to cut 12" squares and that he only has a tablesaw.
Ripping 12" strips from a sheet of plywood shouldn't be a problem, *unless* the fence isn't parallel to the blade. So, verifying this should be the first step.
Once the 12" strips are cut, he needs a proper crosscut jig -- a perfectly tuned tablesaw sled would be my preference -- but what if he doesn't have one of those, and he's stuck with whatever miter-gauge he has? Well, he first needs to check that the miter gauge doesn't wobble in the slot and he should screw an auxiliary fence on the miter gauge to extend its range. Then he needs to verify that the miter gauge is square to the blade. Here's where it gets interesting.
If the blade isn't perfectly parallel to the miter-gauge slot, he'll never cut a square piece. So, this would be the first thing to check and adjust, if necessary. Once that's done, getting a square piece should be just a matter of trial and error.
Let's see if he checks back in on this. Meanwhile, feel free to add any other suggestions that might add to his understanding of this issue.
Cheers,
Ellis Walentine, host
Re: Struggling with square
Ron Gricher
Just wanting to say thanks to all of you for helping me with my post after I thought about it was kinda dumb question, especially after all the answers I recieved you definitely are a bunch of professionals at what you do. I got it taken care of from a individual like yourselves that I met at a place called metro woods he was one fine gentleman. Again thanks.
Don't keep us in suspense
Ellis Walentine
I'm wondering what advice you got from the gentleman that solved your problem.
Ellis Walentine, host
Re: Don't keep us in suspense
Ron Gricher
Did not get much advise I followed him to his shop he got his Festool Track saw and that was pretty much it.
That track saw is the way to go but also a lot of money would not be worth it to me. Again thanks for all your advice.
Re: Don't keep us in suspense
Barry Irby
IF you don't have and don't want to pay for a Festool Tracksaw there are alternatives. Dewalt and Makita as well as others make track saws that are very serviceable and significantly less expensive than Festool. Less expensive being relative they are still not cheap.
If you have a portable circular saw (AKA Skilsaw), you can make your own track. Rip an edge off a sheet of plywood or acquire a really straight board. Fasten that to another strip of plywood several inches from the edge. The "step" or rabbet needs to be wider than the distance from the edge of the base of your saw to the edge of the bottom piece. Then, using the straight edge as a guide against the edge of the shoe of your saw, saw off the edge of the bottom piece. That fresh edge tells you exactly where the cut will be. Clamp it on your work and make the cut. You can do exactly the same thing with a router.
You can also make a rough cut and then clean it up with a straight edge and a router with a pattern bit.
We are dying to know what we tried to help you with. Let us know.
Re: Okay, let's make some assumptions
Ralph Lipeles
Some years back I made a jig to check the accuracy of my table saw. I had a strip that fit snugly in the miter gauge slot. It had a cross piece that had a dial indicator on the end. I first slid the indicator so that it was against the blade. I then rotated the blede, by hand, to insure that the blade was not distorted. I then, with the tip of the indicator touching the rip fence, slid the indicator back and forth to confirm that the rip fence was parallel to the miter gauge slot. I did similar with the indicator tip against the blade to confirm that the blade was parallel to the miter gauge slot.