A couple of years ago in a woodworking class at Santa Fe Community College I designed and started on a corner cabinet with curved doors. When I got to the point of installing the Brusso offset hinges I laid it aside. Now I am back on it and realize why I laid it aside. In order to get the doors installed properly the cabinet has to be dry assembled - no small task since it has dozens of dowels to line up!
As soon as the screws for the hinges arrive (tonight, maybe), I'll have to get it assembled and figure out how much to take off the doors so that they will meet correctly in the middle. I've tried to do this without screwing the hinges down, but that's not working too well.
This has been an excellent example of designing something that is nearly impossible to build!
> This has been an excellent example of designing something that is nearly impossible to build!
Short version of my life, those are often the most fun projects though.
I'm wondering if you could wrap a piece of paper along the facing and use that to measure the door opening precisely (then fold that in half to get each doors size). If there isn't a place to map that to a flexible piece of wood (1/16" or so ripped on the BS) could be clamped in place to use as a guide. The other issue is, of course, figuring the tangent for how the doors meet up (both at the junction and at the hinges). I suspect there is some trick with mating two sliding bevels that might work, but it might take a bit of back & forth.
I temporary fasten with one short steel screw. The doors for my corner cupboard have been on and off half a dozen times during construction and finishing.
Brusso offset hinge? Are you talking about the ones that mount on the top and bottom edge of the door, or the side? Even the top and bottom type has two versions.
I wouldn’t plan on doing the final fitting until the carcass is assembled and maybe installed. If the walls and or floor aren’t perfectly plumb or level, this will throw off the fit.
One thing I figured out a long time ago was Rather than use the hinge that is two L shaped blades, that both need to mortise, the other one which has a short straight blade for the carcass side is easier to use. After the door hinge portion is mortised and screwed in, I just stand the doors in place with carcass blade on its pin, I then use shims to hold hold them exactly right. I then slip another thinner strip of wood under the door up against the hinge to register its location when I pull the door away. This little jig if you will has carpet tape with the vellum started and rolled back a bit so I can hold it against the hinge while I pull the vellum out from under it while pressing down. No need for a tape measure with this method. The jig also has a tab on the end to register front to back indexing.
?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? ANYWAY U GIT MY MESSAGE
