Finish Question

Re: Finish Question

David Yoho

On a piece like you described I don't see why you wouldn't apply your finish everywhere - even inside the drawer, since no clothing will be stored there.

However, I have two problems with what you plan to use. First - why use BLO and Waterlox? The BLO won't really dry plus it's an oil like that or Watco that can impart that rancid odor in closed spaces like drawers and cabinets. The clear topcoat (in this case Waterlox) is oil based and will do the job just fine alone.

Second - in my experience Waterlox is a great varnish but it takes much longer for its odor to dissipate. I much prefer General Finishes Arm R Seal for that reason. Either way, I don't see the need for using the BLO.

Re: Finish Question

AZ in Colorado Springs

No oil based finish in an enclosed space. You'll have odors forever. I use lacquer or water based polyurethane.

information

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

I finish my stuff everywhere except drawer runners. A finished case inside aids stability. Drawers running against a hard waxed finish glide effortlessly. The inside of a drawer finished stays bright and clean looking. In a desk drawer a finish on the inside does all the above plus offers some protection.

Do a test. BLO plus Waterlox vs just Waterlox. I predict you can't tell the difference in appearance. BLO is over promoted by authors who aren't experienced finishers.

Waterlox provides hard fast drying finish. I have been experimenting with several varnishes the past few years and I am settling on Waterlox because it cures hard, dries fast and provides a lovely color and luster to walnut and cherry. I don't agree that it stinks forever. The "varnish smell" is a result of the curing chemistry. I can tell when a varnish has thoroughly cured because it stops smelling like curing varnish(about a month for PL 38). Given that you already have Waterlox and probably know how to use it, I don't recommend that you not use it.

We have a professional jewelry box maker in the club. These boxes go for $500( seen at Southern Highland Craft Store near Asheville). The insides and outsides are finished with Minwax wipe on varnish and after cure the insides don't stink that I can tell.

I use Zinsser shellac for case interiors and drawers. Coat, dry, sand 220, recoat, done. It is cheap, goes on easy with foam brushes from Woodworkers Supply (but not all foam brushes), dries very fast, sands easily, provides a hard surface for drawers to slide against.

Bill is correct about this

Joe in a Cleveland suburb

"Do a test. BLO plus Waterlox vs just Waterlox. I predict you can't tell the difference in appearance. BLO is over promoted by authors who aren't experienced finishers."

Last winter I said I used BLO then P&L 38 because the BLO made it look nicer. I had been doing this for years with BLO then oild based varnish of some sort. This was on Cherry sanded to something like 220. He challenged me on this.

So I did a test. One piece BLO applied, then P&L 38. One piece P&L 38 only. No real difference. BLO was a wasted step.

I'm no expert, but this is probably mostly true with any oil based varnish in that BLO prior to the varnish being a wasted step. I suppose the type of oil in the varnish matters too though. Is it linseed, tung, soy...

This kinda makes me wonder though. Linseed oil darkens considerably over time doesn't it compared to say tung oil? So if you put BLO on say cherry that darkens on its own, then your oil based varnish, would a piece with oil then varnish darken more than a piece with just varnish? Or does it all even out over time?

Re: Bill is correct about this

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

would a piece with oil then varnish darken more than a piece with just varnish

did you save your test pieces to answer this question? Can you compare stuff you made w w/o to get an answer?

Stinks forever

David Yoho

I agree Waterlox certainly does not stink forever on an outer surface. Same with other oil based varnishes. However, it does take it much longer to lose its odor than Arm R Seal.

When I was building for hire there were some projects that got Waterlox because it looked better on particular woods. There were other times I used Arm R Seal because, in my opinion, it looked and worked as good but allowed me to deliver sooner to a waiting customer.

A Newbie Finisher's Mistake

Mark Mandell - Gone Round In New Jersey

When I started doing serious woodworking, I thought I'd apply my new-found experteez when I refinished a outdoor deck. I added good-for-the-wood BLO to the deck finish to get a lovely honey color on the PT decking. Turned out that BLO is a favorite food for outside molds.

Only took about 6 months for the deck to turn almost black.

repeated on an outdoor table

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

"Turned out that BLO is a favorite food for outside molds." My "lovely" Cyprus table is black. I need to bleach and start over.

Re: Finish Question

howgor

This is an area of some debate. There are some that do not apply anything to the inside of drawers and those that do. If you have sanded the insides to at least 150 there really is no need to put any finish on as long as it is not for the kitchen or bathroom. Shellac is fine, one or two coats and knock it back with 320 paper. If you spray lacquer will work and once it is cured there is no odor.