I just got done taken apart my Unisaw for the move to TN It will be going into a POD for a few weeks until I get back from some work travel. My question is pretty simple. I have the side and out feed tables off, and am down to just the base with top and motor. Do I take the top off as well as the motor or just leave them on?
I am paying pro's to pack the PODs so I don't have to carry anything but my adult beverage and point at what goes.
Depends on how much you like to adjust machinery. The holes in the saw base are oversized. If you take the table off, you will have to realign the miter gage slot with the saw blade. I'd leave it on. You have a 50/50 shot it will come through the move without the table shifting. If you take it off, 100% chance of adjustment.
I planned on re-tuning everything anyway so all the cast iron came off the cabinet (JET left-tilt) and band (18"Jet) saws which made it way easier for the movers and there was no danger of something getting dropped resulting in a cracked/busted cast iron table.
Tuning the miter slot to the blade takes all of 3 minutes with a dead-blow mallet and a combination square.
Plus the trunions and such are exposed for easy clean and lube before you reassemble the piece.
It could be that the safest way to move the top is to have it fastened to the saw. But, the move is an excellent time to lube and readjust tools when they arrive at heir new home.
When I moved years ago I removed the table top to decrease weight for going down stairs. It hardly is a concern reattaching it.
I've moved Delta Unisaws. Note that if you remove the motor and leave the top attached (hoping to reduce the weight without having to realign the top) you may find it it too top heavy to control, and thus drop it. It is much easier to realign the top of a cabinet saw than a contractor's saw. I've also mored and realigned contractors saws. I have also seen professional shippers destroy a Unisaw by dropping it, without breaking or even hitting the top. All the broken pieces of the trunnion came sliding out the dust chute when it was uncrated.
On this side I have help with moving it. On the other side it comes out of a POD into my garage/ shop. I will have all three of my friends there to help. Me/Myself and I , so the top and motor my just come off to save my back. Besides it really is a good time to clean the old dust out out and start new dust.
This might be a good idea. Clean it out, Move it, dry lube anything that needs it, inspect carefully, reassemble, and tune up. Better for the saw and easier on the back.
Not exactly the same thing, but some time ago I decided to move my DP. It seems to have gained weight and become even more top heavy while I was aging. It got away from me and fell over, breaking the table. I was able to get the table welded and I was not hurt, but those things are really top heavy and awkward. Be careful.
To remove or not to remove - your three friends still won't be enough to handle lifting the top back on the cabinet - - you'll want real helpers for that.
I agree taking the top off to reduce total weight and the opportunity to clean and lubricate things are a good reason to do it. However, if it's anything like my Jet cabinet saw, it may take more effort to align the miter slot than has been indicated, depending on how fussy you are about things.
When I brought home and set up my Jet years ago there was a paper enclosed with the various manufacturer's specifications along with the tested measurements done before shipping. Having a very accurate TS Aligner tool, I checked things for myself to see what I came up with. Turned out their results were pretty much what they stated. However, I figured I could tweak the measurement for the fence-to-blade (and therefore miter slot) a bit. I loosened the bolts securing the table and that thing shifted so easily it took some patience to get it where I wanted. It didn't take much to move it too far one way or the other only to start over.
If a framing square is your weapon of choice it probably won't take long.
One thing nobody's mentioned: If you do remove the top, there will likely be some shims (washers) under one or more of the mounting locations. Make sure you document their locations so you can properly reinstall them. They have a lot to do with the overall alignment - particularly when using beveled blade settings.
Check YouTube for videos about the installation/alignment.
I draw a distinction between the alignment of the miter slot to that of the fence.
The miter slot is set dead nuts parallel to the plane of the blade using the same tooth positioned at the front and back when fully raised.
The fence, however, is set with 3/1000ths more gap at the back of the blade's teeth to help prevent kickback and pinching of the stock being cut. This is also the time to adjust the hair line ruler piece.
After setting the miter slot/blade measurement, I use a trusted straight-edge corner-to-corner. A small piece of 28ga. copper at one corner or the other corrects things to "reasonable" flatness on the top.
That's exactly the adjustment I changed (fence to slot). I felt their setting was a hair narrow for my liking.
I suppose my point was a tool such as the TS Aligner will help get these settings closer than a framing square but it might take more fidgeting due to the amount the dial indicator can move with just a small amount of movement of the table in the wrong direction.
Years ago I give up the dial indicator method in favor of a 12" combination square and some automotive feeler gauges. The slight sound of the tooth-on-ruler rub is as close as I need for working wood.
I place a screw in the end of a piece of wood and make a piece that fits the miter slot tight. I screw the piece with the screw in the end into the piece in the miter slot extending it towards the blade. I use a square to ensure it is 90 to the miter slot. I adjust the screw in or out until it just kisses a tooth. I mark that tooth and rotate it to the back or front and check it again. If it just kisses it I am good if it is to long I shorten it by about half and do it again. It only take a couple of times to get it dead on. I still haven't decided if I am yanking it or leaving it on.
I think you have two issues. How to move at each end and how to move down the highway in the middle. If you can et it loaded at the beginning with table on it seems a no brainer to do that. What better way to transport? At destination clean, lube assemble and adjust
Hello, Leave the top on and have them turn it upside down on a mat or something, will be less chance of damage, take the motor off if you feel it would be better. Good luck with move.
