Interesting Fail....

not the stain

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

The plasticizers in the tape glue softened the lacquer and stuck it to the tape.

The attribute of expensive CAB lacquer is its lack of color both initially and over time. No need to spend the money for water white and then coat stained oak with it.

Re: not the stain

Barry Irby

The lacquer is expensive, What lacquer do you use?

Re: Interesting Fail....

BrianFromMonumentCO

Isn't a stain supposed to penetrate?

Re: not the stain

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

yes it is expensive because it is formulated with Eastman Cellulose butyrate, the same stuff as screw driver handles are made of and it costs a lot to make it. The alternative is formulated with cellulose nitrate, cheap to make. In fact it is so cheap to make people just blow it up for fun shooting at targets and one another.

I thought so....

Barry Irby

I admit I painted it on liberally to get nearly black and I allowed it to dry thoroughly. These so called crystals are water based. I tried to dissolve some in alcohol, but it had no effect. I guess I need to contact the manufacturer for a finishing schedule. I was amazed that it came off the oak completely, leaving almost completely unstained.

Re: Stain doesn't penetrate most times..

Grant In Iowa

Stain is made up of colored particles. These particles are generally too large to penetrate most common woods. So the stain really just grabs on to the surface of the wood and more so areas with pores. If you stain red oak, for example, more of the particles collect in the more porous areas where the "grain" is.

The amount you sand can also effect how readily the stain will "stick".

If you want a penetrating color, Dye might be the way to go. Dye has much smaller particles and can penetrate many common woods. The advantage is that a dinged piece of dyed wood won't reveal its true color, though it will still be an ugly spot.

Do some test pieces and cut them in half with a saw to do your own experiments on your own wood.

For me, I largely prefer to just keep the wood the natural color. Some scoff, but I have never really had issues that way. I have yet to hear anyone say that my work "needs stained".

FWIW,

Grant in Iowa

He was using a dye

Dick Coers

A natural dye made with water and walnut husks. If I read it correctly.

Re: Stain doesn't penetrate most times..

Barry Irby

I too generally prefer to not stain or dye the wood. 90% of what I do is finished natural. I probably should take a lesson from Bill and apply some stain to my walnut pieces to prevent fading.

This was some bug infested oak that I used to make the computer desk. The desk he wanted looked like an Ikea project to me so I used some pretty degraded wood I want to get rid of. It looked better than I thought it might and my son was pleased. He is not terribly upset with the tape fiasco. He is military and so is his wife, so they will move frequently. The choice seems to be to build them disposable stuff or something indestructible. I built them a dining table with 6 x 6" legs and two inch thick top, White Oak, bolted together with 3/4" bolts. Lets see what the movers do with that. It was fumed so I don't thing the color will fall off.

For dark on oak *LINK*

John in NM

Use ferric acetate. Easy to make, pour vinegar in a jar and drop in a steel wool biscuit. Maybe rinse the steel wool with acetone or alcohol first to remove any rust inhibiting oil.

You'll end up with a odd smelling solution that reacts with the tannin in the wood to produce a dark brown color. Might have a greenish look, if so you can go over it with lye for a brown color. On oak I think it will be so dark you won't see a greenish cast, that is common on maple.

The only trouble is that this method is variable. Depends on how you make it, when you use it, and how much tannin is in the wood.


https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/questions/35351/iron-chemistry-acetates-for-ebonizing-wood