Filed rip, 2 1/3 per inch
david weaver
I purchased a coil of 4 inch tall .042" spring temper 1095 and at the same time, found a box of 10 US made nicholson "Extra heavy" taper 8" files and filed teeth into the blade. It took about two hours. I don't anticipate anyone else would do that.
My file size dictated a tooth size of about 2 1/3 teeth per inch. I wasn't really shooting for anything other than as big as I could justify with the file, and not absurd - something that would have at least 6 teeth in any cut where I'd use the saw.
Perhaps out of coincidence (not sure if this has always been the case), Blackburn's got an identical blade and the tooth count is the same. I did talk to Isaac around the same time he started offering stuff, but I'm sure he's got a machine that cuts teeth because he sells a toothed section of the same stuff for $70, which is what a normal person would do (I didn't save much cutting the teeth on my own, but it's what i like to do - make the tools).
I made a thinner blade before the one this size and it was more like 2" and .03" 1095. It didn't work well, though it would be OK for a smaller saw. I wanted to be able to resaw things up to about 16-20", so smaller is out of the question. the problem with a smaller blade is that the stability in the cut for a one-person saw (with the weight of the frame bearing down) relies on a fairly tall and stiff blade.
I had a bandsaw when I built it. When I got it finished, I realized that even if I was cutting something 10" and 2 feet long, I would prefer the frame saw because the result is more predictable than I could get out of a $1,200 bandsaw. if i had to saw 20 linear feet a day, I'd have bought a better saw.
I can't make the claim that everyone should have one, but if you venture to cut a panel like you cut there a couple of times a year, it's something you'd love to use.
Teeth are pretty close to zero rake, but that kind of thing is easy to change. The wood in the picture is sinker sitka, and it's old and extremely dense (similar to cherry). I knew that when I bought it. The early wood is hard and grippy, but sawing in cherry or anything else that doesn't have hard earlywood is smooth sailing.
If you could find a 2 tpi bandsaw blade section that's 4" tall and reasonable thickness (4 hundredths or so) on the spine with hook teeth, it would work very well. I hate to admit it, but the clearance of the hook design is probably faster cutting than any hand-cut teeth, and on one of my smaller turning saws, I put a cheap section of 3 tpi (thin 3/8") blade and other than being rough cutting, it's a treat to cut things out like guitar bodies and rough necks out of neck blanks.
The little bits about blade height and thickness are important, though, for saw function, so don't waste time if you have a 1 1/2" resaw blade laying around - it won't be steerable and would require two people on the saw.
(it took one cut to learn to steer this saw - that's an obvious concern working alone. I take 25 strokes, each offers quite a bit of resistance, so taking a break each 25 to look at the far side of the cut is welcome - I step past the billet, look at the back side of the cut, and make a minor adjustment on the next 25 strokes. Rinse and repeat. thinner stock like cabinet sticking or anything of that sort (like 5" or below), I use a large hand rip saw - you and others would have no problem with that on a bandsaw, anyway. It's the big stuff where this saw separates itself. I've not had thickness variation of more than a 16th with this saw on my last few cuts. I leave a little margin, anyway, in case the blank moves after I resaw it.
In the middle of the tree it had been shot and nailed with big spikes on one side. 
