Question about Exterior Painting job

Re: Question about Exterior Painting job

david weaver

Not sure how ardent you'll be at keeping the paint on wood sealed, but if the answer is very, it probably doesn't matter much what you use for wood. Contact areas with concrete may get punky, but you can pick them out and bridge the gap later with some kind of filled epoxy product and still get decades.

I've used treated wood (SYP) for railings outside of my house, connected to concrete. Expected little life out of them at the point of contact but have refreshed spar urethane at any problem areas often and the wood is completely problem free after a decade (and was cheap). It would be a different story if it was paint with a few cracks and a way for water to get in and then have trouble getting back out due to the paint layer.

The local yard that I use recommended cypress (heart as much as possible) or spanish cedar when I asked, but they they didn't have the sizes I'd like and mentioned that most people will just build up something from thinner stock (presuming pros) because it's more cost effective.

FIL had exterior pine sills on a house he built in 1978. He's diligent with paint (they were not treated) and touched up any issues each year. He has replaced one since then. standards have gone down enough since then that if one would've criticized the use of pine, they'd be horrified by some of the houses around here that use painted MDF on the exterior.

If you go cheap like I did (treated SYP), I'd give the lumber a little bit of drying time before using it. Even a couple of months would help greatly.

Re: Question about Exterior Painting job

Keith Newton

Alan, I would advise against using untreated wood for the stringers and treads. The propensity for getting and staying wet under there is too high and will turn most wood species into mushrooms pretty quickly. DAHIKT

I Spanish Cedar for the railing and balusters, but it is getting pretty pricy here.

If you want to go with pressure treated SYP, it needs to be dry before painting. If you get it and go ahead and cut into rough lengths and follow my drying and bug killing process in the "Latest WC Articles" it could be ready in about a week.

Treated SYP

Mark Mandell - Gone Round In New Jersey

but NOT from the Borgs.

You want No. 1 grade "2KD" (double kiln dried) which you'll only get from a good lumberyard; and you might have to order it.

At time of install, immediately soak down with Floods Seasonite which will control drying, twisting, and cracking. Best to wait over winter before painting to let the wood acclimate to its new shape and location.

For ground contact a)spend a few bucks and apply Cuprinol (the Green stuff) at points of contact, or b) use a non-wood base similar to https://www.lowes.com/pd/USP-4-in-x-4-in-Plastic-Wood-to-Concrete-Cast-in-Place-Base/3367966. in either synthetic or cast metal on a concrete mushroom so your wood will dry after getting wet.

Re: Question about Exterior Painting job

Barry Irby

You can buy Treated lumber that is KDAT (Kiln Dried After Treatment) or ADAT (Air dried After Treatment). If you use treated lumber you should hunt down one of them and then let it dry/acclimate over the winter.

A traditional material for this application was Mahogany. Also Black Locust and even White Oak.

Might be good to use treated SYP that is rated for ground contact for the stringers and posts.

Paint does not adhere well to treated SYP.