Just finishing a commission of three Arts & Crafts chairs and will deliver first of week. Got some capital to put back into the shop. Going to purchase a new set of Forstner bits and brad points. I have an older set of Fuller countersinks but they burn and get hot so easily. Recommendations wanted for quality forstner bit set (16) piece and brad point set and countersinks! thanks
Lee Valley sells the best brad point bit I've ever come across. They grind their own. The profile creates a clean hole with no tearout. They are pricey but once you use one you will see why.
I keep several types of Forstner bits, imperial and metric. Sorry, I don't know the brands since I bought most of them over 10 years ago.
For rougher work, I prefer inexpensive carbide bits. They don't cut as crisply but they last forever. The higher quality steel bits cut cleanly but probably wear quicker - I don't use them as much so I haven't had to resharpen them.
But you mentioned the bits get hot. Have you tried cooling them while drilling? I always direct a strong stream of compressed air into the back of the bit the entire time. The bits cut better and stay a lot cooler since the chips are kept clear. The air also helps to keep the bit cool. This works so well with deep holes the bit doesn't need to be retracted. (I mostly drill deep holes on the lathe.)
If you haven't done it, touching dull bits up with diamond hones can help a lot.
Fuller countersinks are easy to resharpen. The tapered bits aren't but you can do it in a pinch.
I like LV's brad points a lot too, they do work better than those I've ground myself. I have a couple good brad point bits from Colt and another of Woodcraft's house brand from 20 years ago, no idea if they are still good but they were.
For forstners I used to like Famag plain bits that I bought from Traditional Woodworker before they went out of business. I really liked those bits! Stay away from cheap ones, they kinda do the job but not like a good one. I have a 1/2" Irwin that is probably the worst forstner I've ever used. Resharpening forstners isn't too awful, but it takes some experimenting to get it right. You can clean up the cheap bits so they work better, but you shouldn't have to on a new bit.
I bought a big set of carbide tipped Forstner bits at Woodcraft. Easily over a decade ago. Incredibly great bits. Long razor sharp spurs, nice clearances so the bit body doesn’t overheat. I think those things will last forever! I’ve made hundreds of Christmas ornaments by boring a 3/4” hole through a 2” cube. Cuts like new. No idea if the quality today is the same.
I wholeheartedly agree with the recommendations for Lee Valley brad point bits.
My "strategy" for Forstner bits is to buy a cheap Chinese set and pay attention to keeping them cool, using air, the proper fee rate, and retracting them as soon as they start to clog. The shavings carry the heat away from the edges, so if shavings are not flying out, immediately retract the bit, clear it and let it cool. I haven't used John's compressed air method because my air compressor is too small for most holes, but it makes sense. Part 2 of my "strategy" is when I've worn out or dulled a cheap Forstner, that tells me that I need a better quality in that size, and I go to Woodcraft (others carry them, too), buy a Famag BorMax bit in that size, and throw the Chinese bit in my junk metal pile.
Michael, another vote for the Lee Valley brad points. Maybe 35+ years ago I bought a set of brad points from The Fine Tool Woodshops, Danbury, Conn. They have held up exceedingly well and are the ones I use for rough stuff. Gee. I bet I didn't pay more than $5 for the set!!
But for furniture-grade stuff, I pull out the LV brad points. Jim
The high speed bits from lee Valley are the clear choice. I bought the expensive 1/2" set. To my surprise, I have used most of the sizes. High speed steel is not only burn proof but also vastly more abrasion resistant so they will last forever. And sharp! With care the exit hole will not splinter even if poorly backed up. They are a joy to use.
I have quite a few LV forstner pattern HSS bits, too, and they're just as good as their brad points. They're as good as - or better than - my (expensive) Fisch bits.