I bought two used Festool rails for a track saw. The seller threw in two Makita clamps. F clamps I guess, they are the type you can slide into the groove on the back of the track to secure it. Oddly, if you back the screw all the way out until the frame contacts the pad, the screw disingages. You have to make a little room and push the handle/screw forward and thread the screw back into the frame. My Festool version of these clamps will not come loose like this. I can't imagine what this is for or why they do it. Makes them a little hateful to use. Any Ideas? I need some kind of spacer to prevent it from happening.
It shouldn't make any difference when you are using the clamp in a track, but using it in dog holes, the Makita has an advantage. If the dog hole is through a bench top that is more than about 7/8" thick, the Festool clamp won't make the turn. Since you can remove the head from the Makita clamp, you can insert the frame from the bottom and then reattach the head. This is never a problem with the Festool MFT or other Festool work surfaces, but it is a problem with my 1-7/8" thick bench tops.
I haven't seen the Festool track system up close but have on TV. They just lay the track on a board or sheet good without hold downs and saw away. What keeps the track from moving around?
William, I am not talking about removing the movable part of the clamp from the L shaped "body". I my case, with the clamp assembled, you can back the screws out and there is enough room between the end of the threads and the pad to disengage the screw. It won't come apart at that point, the clamping arm is captive but unthreaded. I can't see any use for this.
David, the track have two thin soft strips of rubber (Neoprene?) that are in matching rebbats and they protrude about a millimeter. While not sticky, the soft rubber is very "grippy". They provide a lot of friction. According to the Gods of track saws, you lay them in place, and make your cut. There is a second type of strip down the edge of the track that when new protrudes out the edge. This is harder and slicker. The saw trims this on the first cut you make. It is a splinter guard, helping to eliminate tear out or splintering on the side of the cut under the track and because the saw cut it to size you can lay it right beside you layout marks and know exactly where the cut will be. To answer your question, friction holds the track in place.
I haven't got as much confidence in that system as others. If the cut is important or in the least awkward, I use the clamps underneath. The tracksaw is wonderful for breaking down plywood and straightening the first edge on rough lumber. But if the plywood is dusty or the lumber not really flat and smooth, I go to the clamps.
I bought the TS 75 version of the saw. The 75 means it will cut through 75 millimeters, essentially 3". It's a huge "skilsaw". I am beginning to wish I had gotten the TS 55.
Sorry I misunderstood. I haven't actually seen the Makita clamps. I've been tempted to grind the stop off the end of a couple of my Festool clamps, but haven't done it yet.
Regarding the splinter guard strip: Yes it prevents splintering on the left side of the saw blade. Festool also provides replaceable splinter guards for the right side of the kerf that attach to the saw plate.
If neither the rubber track grips nor the clamps are sufficient to keep the track from sliding around, Festool also sells "gecko" suction cups with an attachment for the track. These are useful for cutting very slippery material or for cutting on vertical surfaces. They are also useful for moving plexiglas panels around. My screen porch is winterized with 4' x 6' plexi panels, which is the main reason I bought the gecko.
Another advantage of the track over homemade skilsaw guide rails is that the clamps are completely beneath the track and never interfere with the saw motor. They are also infinitely adjustable for the length of the material being cut.
I also have the TS75. I agree that the TS-75 is heavier and less convenient than the smaller TS55, but if you are cutting lots of plywood, it has the advantage of being able to cut three stacked sheets simultaneously. It is also useful for breaking down 8/4 hardwood lumber, crosscutting and ripping.
Festool and others make attachments for the rails that allow you to rip the second edge exactly parallel to the first edge.
I think I understand what you mean...there's no stopper on the threads or swivel head to keep from totally unscrewing the thread from the clamp...right?
Maybe a solution...mix up some quick set epoxy. Dab it into the last full thread then use tape as a mold while the epoxy sets up.
YOu could wrap the thread with a bit of wire to give it more substance...kinda like rebar in concrete.
Maybe rough up the thread surface first...center punch dimples...wire wheel...grinder
YOu could mash the threads too...but that becomes a permanent fix. Epoxy can be dug out.
Thomas, you nailed it. Thanks. I have enjoyed this thread, but you are the first to grasp what I was talking about.
The rail clamp is essentially an F clamp. The problem is there is too much room between the end of the threads and the pad that bears against the wood. If you unscrew the handle too far it will disengage from the threads and dangle loosely from the pad. Never happens except at the inopportune moment. I haven't gotten adroit with the clamps and find this to be annoying and fiddly.
Thanks for the suggestions. I will think them through. I was thinking of some sort of collar to take up some of the space and prevent the handle form unscrewing too far.