Re: question
mfoster vermontel.net
Hi Bill, I tried to reply this morning before going to work, but I got an almost screen of death when I hit post. I have had trouble with the site loading correctly for a couple of days. I will get a screen that lists some of the sponsors with links, but no message board. Not sure if that is something others have experienced.
So I originally posted the pic shown here. This blank is made from 4" lengths of 12" wide Peruvian walnut (a richer, darker walnut and this board, at least, had no sapwood. Veneer is Birch that also runs vertically. Here I was contemplating trying to re-saw the blank on the tablesaw as I wanted nice clean cuts with very controllable thickness to get the grid right. Your advice, and others, was to use the bandsaw. I put a new re-saw blade on the bandsaw and got the fence adjusted to a tee, then sliced the blank up. The cuts were so good that no sanding was required and all I had to do was glue up the slices with more veneer between each slice. I did glue up just one veneer at a time between 2 slices as then I had time to get the cross veneers lined up perfectly. Trying to do more in a glue up would have been un-manageable. Once the glue up was done, then came the real trick, turning it. I mounted it on a faceplate and turned the wings first. The issue here is that the wood is oriented up and down, and taking too big of a cut could easily chunk out wood as the piece got thinner. Think high speed and super sharp gouges and a very light touch taking just slivers each pass. I was nervous during the whole process till I got those corners the thickness I was after and totally stoked that I was able to pull it off. Turning a square blank is intimidating enough for lots of folks, but with the grain running vertically as in this piece just adds a whole nother layer of comlpexity. So again, thanks for the help in getting me to the finish line on this.
