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OT - replacement windows

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OT - replacement windows

#1

JL

OT - replacement windows

JL

The windows on our house are metal windows (double pane) - they are a number of years old (probably 24-25 years). Some of them appear to be "compromised" and have fog on the inside. All of them conduct cold through the metal - and invariably have mold/mildew on the metal in the winter when we keep the shades down.

Anyway - the windows are set into the window frame. For want of better words, it is as if someone took a 1 x 5 (or 1 x 6) and covered the 2 x 4 framing and drywall edge. They then set the windows into the framed opening.

Some need to be replaced - and it they all were replaced, the house would probably be warmer.

We would prefer wood (or vinyl) as opposed to metal. Any suggestions?

Re: OT - replacement windows

#2

Re: OT - replacement windows

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

You can get replacement windows designed to set into what our window guy called a "buck," which is what it sounds like you've got. Find a good window retailer (in our case, it was the windows/doors department at the local lumberyard that caters to contractors but also welcomes civilians) and take photographs with you. You may need to add some trim elements to the existing structure, and you'll need to ensure that the existing structure is square and not twisted, or correct problems, before you install the windows. You may even need to correct the problems before you order them.

Measure the openings diagonally both ways: measurements should come as close as possible to matching, but 1/8" is OK. Then, if you can find a clear opening with the existing windows in place, and a reference surface that will be an accurate point from which to measure, string a line tight diagonally from one corner to the other (I found painter's tape was enough for the needed "tight," but this may not be the ideal time of year for this measurement if it's wet or cold), then fasten a line on one of the other corners and pull it diagonally to the last corner. You should be able to hold that line both in front of and behind the first line without more than a 1/8" gap where they cross.

Once you've got confidence in the openings (before or after correction), measure your openings and order your windows.

With either wood or vinyl, you'll wind up running screws through the sides of the window frames into the "buck," and using up plenty of caulk.

Re: OT - replacement windows

#3

Re: OT - replacement windows

Mike L

I like to replace with new construction windows. I pull the outside brick mold off pull the old window out and replace. I seal them up replace with the plastic brick mold caulk and call it a day.

I have used both vinyl or wood windows. I like the vinyl outside wood inside.

I don’t like the replacement style.

Re: OT - replacement windows

#4

I just had this done....

Barry Irby

I flipped a condo about a month ago. The aluminum windows had to be replaced. They had fin jambs covered by plywood siding and 1 x 5 trim on the outside. There was drywall return on the inside where your buck may be.

The installers measured the windows left to right and up and down and had them manufactured about a 1/4" undersized both ways. Square jambs with no fin.

They removed the old windows by dismantling them and collapsing the frames into the opening. Then they wrapped the exterior molding and returned it into the opening covering part of the buck. The new windows were inserted into the openings. Screws installed into the sides. Caulked inside and out with OSI. Two men did six windows in a short day.

Mine were vinyl, white on the inside and Factory painted brown on the outside.

If I can help any further, let me know either hear of in an e-mail. n I have done about ten sets of replacement windows. These were the second like this. Not as easy as casement windows, but easy enough after you know how.

Re: OT - replacement windows

#5

Re: OT - replacement windows

Pete in Holland MI

Replaced the early 70's vintage double hung window/storm units with vinyl about 20 years ago and haven't looked back. I did the replacement window thing, which are installed inside the old window's casing. You lose some window area, but don't get involved in pulling interior trim and necessary repainting that that creates.

Saying the windows will pay for themselves was a stretch in my case. My heat bills dropped maybe 5-10%, but we DID notice an improved level of comfort, and because of the thermal-pane windows, the house is quieter. Poor windows (in the winter) cool the air in front of them, causing it to fall in the room, setting up an air current that circulates the air in the room, cooling it off. Better windows prevent much of this.

Also......if you like to have your windows open in the summer, and you have double hung windows, order full size screens instead of the half size screens. Allows you to open the bottom and top of the window, creating a path to let cooler air in the lower opening, and warm air escaping the upper opening. It DOES work.

As with many things, you generally get what you pay for in windows. Don't go really cheap here.

I replaced all of my windows (11 units) on my own. First window took about 4 hours, the last window took about 20 minutes.

Good luck !

Re: OT - replacement windows

#6

Re: OT - replacement windows

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

I have replaced the windows in both daughters' houses. It was a trivial task of knocking out the old frame and putting in a new one, caulk and done. No need to remove interior trim. Did 11 in part of one day. The better quality windows have attractive finishes to the frames. In both cases used a vinyl coated something(wood?).

Re: OT - replacement windows

#7

Re: OT - replacement windows

Ralph Lipeles

I replaced the cheap double hung windows that were in the house when I bought it. I did the job about 15 years ago. The windows that I selected were made by Marvin. They supplied sort of a kit. The kit came with plastic side rails and both double hung sections which were wood framed with Therma Pane glass. i first had to remove the existing double hung sections and then remove the aluminum side rails. The new rails were plastic, with a foam filling and adhesive to seal them to the sides. Each rail had 3 metal clip brackets to locate the rail. The instructions said to secure the clips with shingle nails. I used flat head slotted screws then popped the rails onto the 3 clips and pushed them against the window sides to provide the seal. The double hung sections were then installed. They were just pushed into place. I knew they were sitting properly when I tested the sections by sliding them up and down. When they slid easily they were sitting properly. A nice feature about the windows is that they can be pulled to a horizontal position for easy cleaning with me inside the house. No need to remove the screens or stand on a ladder. My windows are about 32" wide by 46" high. I did the window job about 15 years ago. At that time each window cost me about $350.

Re: OT - replacement windows

#8

JL

Thanks for the information

JL

Some things to think about. I will get an estimate from Andersen for replacements.

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