Cold temp glue?

E 6000?

paul in AZ

I have become fan of E 6000.

Ideal for your needs except for the bugaboo of temperature. Optimum temp is stated as 50 F. or higher. I don't know how well it cures in lower temps. Maybe call the company and ask.

http://eclecticproducts.com/downloads/tds-e6000-craft-english.pdf

Can you run an extension to it and use a portable electric heater out there?

Heat

Tom Dunlap

Yes...I have power to the curb.

After spending time wandering around the rabbit hole the only cold temp adhesive I found was for gluing decking to floor joists...in a caulking tube.

Might be time to spill a few coins and buy threaded inserts. The floor is 1.125 maple. Sturdy enough for them...and the sure thing.

Re: Cold temp glue?

Re: Cold temp glue?  OOPs!

Barry Irby

I was going to suggest some sort of construction adhesive. PL 400 or PL 500 maybe. We used to glue floor plywood to joists that had frost on them. Check out the temp range.

Re: Cold temp glue?

Dick Coers

I think you can get epoxy that works down to 45 degrees, but thats the lowest I've seen.

Solution

Tom Dunlap

Oh..correction...the floor is white oak, not maple. Maple would have rotted away longggg ago.

If it were summer I'd have used epoxy and not had another thought. But I don't want to have the anchor pullout because of bad adhesives.

After looking at the project I decided to drill through the floor and pull in T-nuts from the underneath. I hope that the places are easy to get to. In the morning I'll be on my back under the camper. A few pieces of interlocking foam mat should work as a creeper in the snow.

they need to be stainless steel

Re: they need to be stainless steel

Tom Dunlap

You're right...for the final installation. Since this is version one I'll use the plated ones I have. A generous soaking with PB Blaster after a dab of grease during installation will work...for now. If the floor plan changes I'll consider SS.

The inserts are there to hold the sliding futon frame in place while I drive. I might add two more if the frame moves away from the wall at night. The t-bolts will come out every night so I'm not too concerned about rust at the moment.

Re: Cold temp glue?

Walter Ahlgrim

Would something like this work? no glue required and stronger.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-4-in-20-tpi-x-20-mm-Zinc-Plated-Screw-in-Type-E-Insert-Nut-4-Pack-817798/204804833

Walta

Re: Cold temp glue? @Walter

Tom Dunlap

Yes, threaded inserts would work the best. All that I have on hand are quarter inch ones. One of my design parameters for the build is to use what I have on hand. Within reason and a good result. I have three eighths t-nuts so that's what I'm going to use. Thanks for the suggestion

Re: Cold temp glue?

Hank Knight

Tom, a heat gun or even a hair dryer can encourage epoxy to cure in cold weather. Heat the wood gently around the site where you're going to install the nuts. Heat the nuts at the same time. Apply the epoxy and continue to apply heat until it cures. I use West Systems epoxy and it cures in about 20 minutes, maybe a little longer in your cold weather.

Re: Cold temp glue?

Tom Dunlap

@HankLOL...I burned up two of my ex's hair driers and was told, 'No more!' I bought an industrial heat gun..that was thirty five years ago T nuts are going in. The locations might not be right or this might not work. If so, V II will ues epoxied in nuts. By that time it'll be warmer too.

Re: Cold temp glue?

TomD

You should use epoxy without a second thought, in the summer.

You didn't give any serious specifications, like are these for tying down bedding or some major loads? So you want to discount any advice you got since none of it was specific to the loads.

If you have to do it now, you could use epoxy, and a heater, or electric hot water bottle. I have long tried to think up a system for scarfing plywood that was heated, there are many option, though generally nothing that seem great. But a potted fitting is doubly tough because how do you heat the whole area. Heating the stud is pretty easy, but the bottom and sides of the wooden hole... Epoxy will eventually kick off, you know, in summer. And then it will reach it's max strength when you cook it at say 160F.

I have been less than satisfied with epoxy work I did when I heated the shop to 50 which is the lowest heat where it cures, if slowly. It isn't the correct viscosity, so it can suffer as to penetration, though the worst of it was doing glass work.

If you want to hardware bond, you need to use epoxy. Those screw in fittings, I have used those on guitars, but generally I would not use them on anything serious. You can pot the fitting indoors, and either break them out, or turn them on a lathe. Then they are a firm fit for a sized hole. You then glue them in with epoxy, but you only use the small film to attach to wood. Could be a little more manageable, but I would rather do it correctly. I am doing some hardware bonding at the moment, on a Moxon vise. I intend to do the final pour in the house.

Re: Cold temp glue?@TomD

Tom Dunlap

If I do end up gluing a 3/8" nut into the wooden floor during warm weather I'll do some things to get a better grip. If the t nuts hold I'm not going to rebuild

The through hole will be little larger than the nut. Then I'll give that hole some texture. As simple as scoring the edges with a Sawzall or jig saw. Maybe use a lag screw as a tap. Cut some slots into the flats of the machine nut too. Using my metal cutting bandsaw. I could get really compulsive and dimple the faces with 1/8" holes

I don't need a lot of strength. The screws will go through the frame of my futon/bed/couch to hold it in place while I'm driving the camper. They need to be removable because the futon frame unfolds and moves away from the wall about 6". The folding mechanism is very clever...no surprise, its an Ikea!