OT- Brake pads

Re: OT- Brake pads

Mark Nowicki

Yes.

I chipped the rust scale off the caliper bracket and that solved the problem.

Re: OT- Brake pads

Tom Norton

Yep, I do that to. I sand off all the rust before installing the new clips. But I still need to "resize" the steel of the pads to fit.

Re: OT- Brake pads

Mike in Zuni VA

Tom.

It sounds as if the piston is not fully retracted. Are you using a large C clamp and pressing the piston back into the caliper with the pad that the piston is bearing against? I have also used a block of wood against the piston and the C clamp to retract the piston. You will probably have to remove the brake reservoir cap to relieve the back pressure that will build up when pushing back on the piston. Be prepared for some overflow depending on how much fluid the reservoir had in it.

Mike

Some calipers require turning the piston.

Re: Some calipers require turning the piston.

Jerry Nicholson

Might want to say "...require rotating the piston", so someone won't chuck the piston in their lathe and have at it

Re: OT- Brake pads

Tom Norton

The problem is the overall length of the backer plate along with the notches. They are larger than the caliper when the clips are installed. I am not having a problem with bthe pistons as they are easily compressed. But it seems every time I do a brake job I need to spend time at the grinder.

Re: OT- Brake pads

Dick Coers

Curious what brand or quality level you are using. I’ve not experienced this problem. Not even in an unusual pad to me with a Nissan replacement. Those required stamped steel clips on both ends of every pad.

Re: OT- Brake pads

Tom Norton

I would have to check the receipt. I get them at my local auto parts store.

Re: OT- Brake pads

Mark Nowicki

Sanding or wire brushing is not enough to get the scale off. You actually have to chip it off, I used an air chisel.

You will have to take the bracket off the car.

Also it in not a good idea to force the brake fluid back through the system, not healthy for the proportioning valves.

The correct way is to pinch the rubber brake hose, loosen the bleeder on the caliper, push in piston and tighten the bleeder.

...and then...

Jason Roehl in Lafayette, IN

...add more fluid to the reservoir.

Jason

Re: OT- Brake pads

MartinMJ

Tom,

I assume that you are referring to the ears or tabs at the ends of the

disk brake pad. I too have encountered this problem, even on high end

Bosch pads. For me the problem was excessive flash from the shearing

process to form the ears. Some metal file work was my solution.

I have been pushing the pistons back for 45 years with an old C clamp.

Lots of expensive fancy tools to do the same. But I always bled the

brakes afterwards until clear fluid was seen. A few years ago I got

tired of recruiting help to 'pump the pedal, hold down, OK pump again'

and purchased one of these hand operated vacuum pumps. Pedal feel seems

so much closer to that new from the factor feel. New tool influence?

Maybe, more likely the pump and hold down method is prone to inefficiency.

Never have I had to rotate the piston back into the caliper bore. Until

I did the brakes on my Mustang. Now I know what that strange cube I see

on the parts counter is used for.

Re: OT- Brake pads

Tony - Memphis

I do pads on our Chevy S10 truck and our Nissan 350Z. Never had that experience. I buy Nissan pads for the Z and "whatever" for the truck. Wonder what's up with yours? Perhaps the tolerance is at the limit or something? Some of the aftermarket parts tend to drift out a bit.

Funny, the Z eats brakes (maybe my wife's driving habits?). The truck is rarely driven now, but used pads at a 'normal' rate. I just lost my hybrid (bad accident before Christmas) and it had 80k and 6 years - factory pads. I got spoiled! Fortunately, the Z is very easy to swap and the truck is not bad really.

Re: OT- Brake pads

Tony - Memphis

I found some bleeders that have check balls in them. I used them on my '54 Chevy and they worked great. Can't recall the name of them. I was able to bleed the system myself with no problem. Lots of tricks out there!

Re: It's a grind

TomD

It is a bit like chisels that used to come dull but sometimes today come razor sharp. In and older time, you would get instructions in books on how to set up a dull chisel. Same thing with old brake job instructions, they would come with instructions on how to grind the tabs to fit. But for the most part today, you don't have to grind them, even on pretty cheap parts. But pay head that you actually have a free moving fit. If not, grinding might be required.