So on a previous post I became more enlightened about routing complementary curves. So after watching a number of instructional videos I think I see a pattern. The second bearing needs to be 3x's the diameter of the bit.
I suspect that there are several ways to do this. You need to specify the exact process in order for me (and others?) to be certain exactly what you mean and whether the rule of 3x bushing size is valid. Details please.
I did a lot of template routing a few years back, its quite fascinating and well worth getting to know. Many different ways to achieve the same outcome.
complimentary routing means whatever way you choose to do it, you have to move the cutter from one side of the finish line to the other.
This way consists of using a 1" flush cut bit and a 1/2" flush cut bit to make your jigs, then you can use any flush cut bit to make your finish pieces.
You screw a i/4" masonite template sheet to a spoilboard such as 3/4" MDF
Then you make your first template 1/2" offset from your finish
line.
screw that to your template boards.
Using a 1" flushcut bit against template #1 you cut a pass through the template board and make two template A&B
Your finish line is directly in the middle of these two templates.
Now screw on template B and make a cut with the 1/2" flushcut bit.
Then repeat on another sheet with template A
Once you have these perfectly fitted they can be your permanent templates. and you only need to use any flush cut router bit to cut your finished wood to size.
I didn't understand the theory at first; then the light brightened.
"Your finish line[joint] is directly in the middle of these two templates. "
This approach depends on the fact that the center of the 1" bit traces the line that will be the joint between the two mating pieces. The edge of each template is 1/2" from this line. Hence, the outside arc(tip of cutter) of a 1/2" bit will trace this line if the inside arc (bearing) rides the template. neat. Don't know where I might use this pearl but I will file it away.
You can rout simple arcs or full circles with a simple pivot. by moving the point-routerbit centerline, equal to the routerbit diameter. So you use a pivot base on your router with two pin holes spaced apart 1/2" if you are using a 1/2" bit. Use one pin hole in your piece of wood on the bench that holds the piece you are cutting. Make one cut in your wood. remove and replace with the second piece of wood, change the pin to the second hole in your router base and rout your second piece of wood. your done.
I did a test this morning using a 3/4" bit and a 3/8" bit. I worked! I had a few "rough spots but I believe it was the fact I used some 1/4" ply to make the templates. Will do another test using MDF.
Great! Tom, just keep playing round and you will see that there are many ways and combinations to use when template routing, a lot will depend on what you have available in your shop, or can make or buy. Usually you can figure out some combination to make things work. Sometimes you may have to make a template to make a template to make a template, just to be able to use what bits and bearings/ bushings you have available. If you are going to do repetitive work, then you can get the correct bits, bearing, bushings and make proper jigs that, that are straight 1:1 ratio and done with flushcut bit/ bearings, no fuss, no figuring things out or dealing with offsets.
Mark's idea is a good one, but will only produce pieces that are a simple arch and a segment of a circle. I like it and will keep it in mind, but it will not work for a "wavy" curve. OTOH, it may make it clear in your head what has to happen for the pieces to fit as you want them. Part of it is keeping it clear that you have to move the bit by exactly a diameter.
Thus a 1/4" bit and a 1/2" bushing and a 1" bushing. The difference is that larger bushing moves the bit one diameter in all directions, if that makes sense.