Band saw tracking

Re: Band saw tracking

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

If I understand your description correctly you are describing the two wheels not being co-planer. They need to be. If these wheels are on a shaft like my saws the wheel can simply be adjusted along the shaft to get them in the same plane. If you bridge across both wheels with a straight edge the straight edge should touch top and bottom of both wheels at the same time.

Re: Band saw tracking

Doug Ridley

Looks like the bottom wheel needs to come out 1/4". Can I just put a coupla" washers behind the wheel?

Re: Band saw tracking

John Veerkamp

that should work, but make sure that the upper wheel is tight(i.e. all the way on) before adjusting the bottom wheel. Is this a new problem with this saw? could make a difference how you approach the solution.

Re: Band saw tracking

Doug Ridley

Yes John. It is new. I have just put on a new 3/8" blade instead of the 1/4" I had been using but I have run a 1/2" before with no problem. I think I will try to get some pics later today and post them. I'm a little hesitant to shim up the bottom wheel as the parts diagram doesn't show any washer behind the wheel.

Greetings to you and your wife. Been a long time.

Re: Band saw tracking

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

It is best to approach a problem like this with the presumption that the saw was properly designed and search for what has/could changed. So look for what could change. I don't know how the wheels are mounted. Mine can readily be moved/adjusted along the shaft they fasten too. If the saw once worked and now doesn't then it is obvious that a wheel is loose on its shaft, or what the wheel/shaft is mounted to has moved.

I don't understand the washers. This saw was designed to run without washer and it must be possible to get it back to design state without this addition. Can you not loosen what holds the wheel to shaft and move the wheel? What could have moved to cause the problem? Seems like it has to be wheel along shaft or what the shaft is mounted to, motor and motor mount perhaps? Somebody that knows what the wheel arrangement looks like on this saw should be able to diagnose the possibilities of what moved. On my saw it would likely be a wheel loose on its shaft but don't rule out motor mount.

more

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

My saw has two adjustments that could lead to your situation. My wheels can be adjusted along the shaft they mount on. Or, my upper wheel can be tilted to optimize tracking. You need to determine exactly what your problem is caused by. Lay straight edge across both wheels. Determine whether they are parallel and in the same plane (adjust wheel along shaft or move motor mount) or in the same plane and not parallel (adjust tilt mechanism).

New saw- call tech service and hope you don't get someone at a call center that barely speaks English.

Re: Band saw tracking

Doug Ridley

Good point. I just recently put new tires on and had to remove the bottom wheel to do it so maybe I didn't get it right or it slipped. I'll check.

Re: Band saw tracking

Doug Ridley

I loosened the nut on the bottom and pulled the wheel out and it didn't change the problem plus with it pulled out into coplane it would have to have shims behind it to stay out there. Tried both a 1/2an d 1/4 inch and they stay on the tire. The 3/8 blade runs on the edge of the wheel. See pics

Re: Band saw tracking

ebd

Any chance that the 3/8" is not sitting in the bottom guide properly?

Re: Band saw tracking

Dick Coers

14" Deltas are notorious for having bent hinge assemblies on the top wheel. It was a horrible material chose from the beginning, and did not improve over time. Check that while you are in there.

Re: Band saw tracking

Doug Ridley

I THINK I got it fixed. Put the blade back on just reasonably tight an took a piece of wood and pushed it over while turning it enough to get it in place and off the metal then tightened the blade tighter than dick's hatband and it stayed in place when turning by hand. Bumped it s few times and then ran it. Looks like it just needed to be MUCH tighter than I normally run with a smaller blade. I'll check it real often for a while. We'll see. Thanks for all the suggestions from everyone.

Re: Band saw tracking

Doug Ridley

Dick, this thing was bought second hand 25 yrs ago and has never had anything done to it 'til I put new tires on it a week or so ago so I'm not surprised at anything. Plus I have used it most every day for that long. I'll take a look at it.

Thanks

Re: Band saw tracking

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

It should twang like a guitar string.

Re: Band saw tracking

Earl

I bought my band saw at a Grizzly tent sale. I had terrible tracking problems (similar to yours) finally took the bottom wheel off turned it around problem solved.

Re: Band saw tracking

Don Evans

If you had both wheels off at the same time are you sure you put them back where they came from, top back on top, bottom back on bottom?

Also if the blade the 3/8" one was never sure prior to changing the tires it could be welded incorrectly.

Don

Tension

John K Jordan

>>>Looks like it just needed to be MUCH tighter than I normally run with a smaller blade.

I learned a lot about tensioning when I got my 14" Delta almost 20 years ago (with riser). I bought two books that helped, one by Duginske and the other by Lonnie Bird. I had poor resaw performance and tracking at first that got much better after I adjusted th wheels and increased the tension.

I found the experinced people are correct - the tension gauge on these saws are nearly worthless and common ways to set the tension, such as the flutter or plucking methods required experience to know what to look for (and what pitch to listen for). Sure, many people have used these methods for years but couldn't explain what they knew. It was almost like voodoo, some found something that worked reasonably well for them wih specific blades then proclaimed tension gauges were wasted money for everyone. I decided to buy a tension gauge to eliminate the guesswork. What I do now with a new blade width, thickness, or type is set the tension with the gauge then note the mark on the saw so I can put it back when needed.

Things I discovered with the gauge: the "correct" tension, according to the blade manufacturers, was WAY higher than I expected. Also, the 14" saws are not capable of properly tensioning blades as wide as they advertise. I bent the pot-metal tensioning bracket on mine trying. (Fortunately, Iturra Design sells much stronger replacement brackets, stronger springs, and more.)

The tension gauge I bought was expensive - I justified the buy in part since I have five bandsaws, and also since I just wanted one. Without a gauge there is a way to measure the tension accurately using a digital caliper, a couple of small C-clamps, and a calculator. I have a file with good instructions - ask if you want it and I'll send it by email when I get back to my computer in a week or so.

Without measuring the tension, one recommendation on these saws is to increase the tension until the pointer is at the next higher mark. This was somewhat close on my 14" Delta but not on my 18" Rikon.

JKJ

Re: Band saw tracking

Doug Ridley

Only had the bottom one off. I think I'm just gonna have to wait and see if it now stays on track with the higher tension. Thanks to everyone for all suggestions and comments. And a big hello to John Veerkamp.

Doug

Re: Band saw tracking

John Veerkamp

It has been a while. Hello to you and Mary also.

Re: Band saw tracking

Walt

"I have just put on a new 3/8" blade instead of the 1/4" I had been using but I have run a 1/2" before with no problem."

Maybe I'm misreading this but the 1/4" and 1/2" blades tracked properly and the 3/8" does not? Doesn't that sound like the 3/8" blade may have an issue?