Re: Gorilla Glue --- is it really weatherproof?
Sgian Dubh
"It foams, it gets on EVERYTHING and will NOT come off."
Barry, along with many others you've noted this tendency of polyurethane glue to foam, and to be difficult to remove. My solution is to wear disposable latex or vinyl gloves when using it if available. They help a great deal, and if I know there's going to be a particularly protracted set of gluing up sessions in a day, I usually also don a pair of overalls. Chuck the gloves in the bin, and simply wash the overalls (if you feel like it, ha, ha).
No gloves? A container of white spirits (mineral spirits) and a couple of rags seem pretty effective at removing the gloop, so long as you get at it whilst it's still reasonably tacky.
I'm not especially convinced of the strength of the adhesive compared to other common types, e.g., PVA, urea formaldehyde, etc. Testing of offcuts from things like edge jointed panels seemed to fail more readily when put together with polyurethane adhesives. I haven't used the stuff for any dry wood gluing up operations for perhaps seventeen or twenty years because of that: by that I mean wood that is dry (<20% MC) and destined for internal use where it will continue to stay dry.
There are two situations where polyurethane adhesive is my first choice.
1. Gluing wet wood or partially air dried used to make artefacts destined for external use, green oak sculptures, benches, arbors, porches, that sort of thing.
2. Air dried wood at somewhere in the region of 16% - 20% MC used in the construction of such items as garden or picnic tables, garden chairs, garden gates, weather exposed ledge, brace and frame doors and the like.
Polyurethane adhesive works well with wet wood, i.e., wood at or above 20% MC unlike most other adhesive types, and in my experience it also holds up well in typical external joinery, e.g., M&Ts used in gates, tables, doors, chairs, etc. Slainte.