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Veneer Question Drawer fronts.

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Veneer Question Drawer fronts.

#1

Veneer Question Drawer fronts.

Lee

I came by some extremely thin mahogany Burl veneer. It’s incredibly beautiful and I would like to use it for my drawer fronts on a slant top secretary. I don’t know how thin, but it’s thin. It cracks very easily.

Can this be done?

Drawer fronts are solid mahogany, so I bandsaw the drawer front stock into 1/8 thin strips and then re-glue them back together. Making a stable ply construction out of solid wood.. I then veneer the Burl on to this.

I then route a round over profile around the edge which has a little fillet. Not sure if it’s a 1/4 round over? But you get the picture.

Will the veneer be ok on the edges?

Lee

Re: Veneer Question Drawer fronts.

#2

Re: Veneer Question Drawer fronts.

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

ok to veneer over solid wood. In the picture I have veneered over poplar. Burl often cracks. Drawer edges are cock beaded to protect the thin veneer.


Re: Veneer Question Drawer fronts.

#3

Re: Veneer Question Drawer fronts.

Barry Irby

If the veneer is not flat there are solutions to soak it in to make it more pliable. Then I believe you layer it between cauls and layers of news paper to press it flat. I think glycerin is part or all of the solution.

And Bill is correct, you can veneer the font of solid wood drawers and use cock bead to protect the edges.

There must be YouTube videos on this.

Re: Veneer Question Drawer fronts.

#4

Re: Veneer Question Drawer fronts.

Don Stephan

Like Formica and other laminates, veneer out to an edge is prone to chipping. Protecting with some form of solid edging protects. A molded edge, like a quarter round with fillet, makes it a little harder to pick at the veneer edge, but not as effective as edging.

Many feel there is no risk gluing a figured veneer to the same species of solid wood, as seasonal movement should be the same. Another option is to glue the veneer to stable sheet goods - MDF, baltic birch. My suggestion would be to avoid white and yellow glues for highly figured veneer, because of the high water content, but others disagree. To each their own.

There is a learning curve for flattening and using highly figured veneer, but it is not difficult and can be done without vacuum bag if one is patient. If you don't have an excess of the figured veneer for practice, you could get a pack of 6 or 8 pieces of burl at woodworking stores like Woodcraft and Rockler to learn the technique and develop confidence.

My understanding is that much of the veneer sold today is 1/42" thick.

Re: Veneer Question Drawer fronts.

#5

router edging issue

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

If you glue to solid wood and then route a profile edge you must have the veneer perfectly glued at the edges or the router will pick out the figure where glue is weak.

The seasonal movement of burl with grain running every way is not going to match the seasonal movement of anything under it. Small cracks may develop over time ( look at antiques with figured veneer). They won't be noticed by anyone but you.

In the past I have posted tutorials of cock beading. Search my old posts on chests of drawer builds, maybe the "French Footed" piece.

I don't know what the problem is with using white glue for veneering. That is the technique I learned in the 4th generation Headley shop in Winchester , VA.

Re: Veneer Question Drawer fronts.

#6

Re: Veneer Question Drawer fronts.

Lee

Thank you for all the great responses. This site has helped me out many times through the years.

I have decided to leave the veneer for another project. I have some nice African mahogany that I will re-saw into 5/16 to 1/4” and glue to the drawer fronts. This way I can use the round over on the edges with a fillet method, without the fear of leaving vulnerable veneer on the edges.

Thanks again

Lee

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