case goods construction decisions- comments?
Bill Tindall, E.Tn.
Someone sent me an email with some questions about constructing a case goods piece with traditional joinery but not necessarily Period Correct construction or wood required.
I have some opinions on these questions based on experience and notions. These questions are common to many case projects and it would be useful to have other's experienced opinions on these mattes. Below are the questions and my opinionated answers. Your comments?
Bill,
I have some 2” X 10” clear white pine I want to use as secondary wood ...... Secondary wood to be used where? White pine is soft and weak, not pleasant to work with. I only use it for drawer bottoms. Makes wonderful drawers bottoms but using a clear pine plank on drawer bottoms seems not the best use of it. Buy some poplar for the secondary wood. Or yellow pine for Period Correct southern furniture.....but you will regret that choice when it comes to working it.
I need to resaw and dress it to 7/8”. How do I resaw 2” thick wood so it doesn’t cup or bow?...... Two part answer. You will never get 7/8" resawing 8/4 lumber. It will only distort if there is tension in the wood from too hasty drying. It is about impossible to dry white pine too hasty. I will be astonished if it distorts upon resawing.
It is my understanding that thick boards will cup if you resaw them down the middle without taking material off the outside faces.....only if there is drying tension locked in.
If I clamp the two halves together with a stout, flat sticker between them, will that keep them flat while they reacclimatize to my shop environment.....resawed lumber cups either (1)from release of tension from drying or (2) if the center is different moisture content from the outside. Case one cupping occurs instantly and you won't stop it. Only recourse is to steam it soft, then clamp flat and dry. Case two occurs as the lumber moisture equilibrates and restraining may keep it flat.
FYI, I've decided to use hard maple for the drawer runners....hand planed and waxed, good choice. Hand planed and waxed maple is slick as Teflon.
and make maple drawer slips for the drawers..... poor choice. The drawer slidy parts need to be more prone to wear because worn drawers are trivial to repair and runners are not. .
Well, there you have my opinions on these matters. Anybody with contrary experience or opinions?