Anyone use Construction adhesive in the shop?

Re: Construction adhesive

Mark Mandell - Gone Round In New Jersey

works because framing wood is most always high MC and the caulk-gun stuff has give and stretch as things dry and shrink and structures flex from forces like settling and wind load that furniture, etc. do not experience. If your shop joints are that loose, best concentrate on better cutting.

Re: Anyone use Construction adhesive in the shop?

Keith Newton

I did an outdoor kitchen about 10 years ago, and used it for bonding the Stainless Steel panel ends and doors for a roll around island with a big green egg let into the top.

Anything that has a huge amount of difference in expansion and contraction that might break another type of joint might benefit from this type of adhesive. Also, let me note, that a fat joint allows for more movement than a thin or tight one.

Re: Construction adhesive

Barry Irby

The joints weren't that sloppy. I used a thin saw blade to cut them, because it was on the saw, and it had a bit of flex, so the surfaces were not as flat as they should have been. They just lacked something in surface area contact so I thought epoxy was the answer and it seems to be fine. I am 99% sure they would have been fine with Titebond.

And, In spite of all that, I should have changed out the blade and cut them better, even for a shop project.

I was just wondering about that version of glue. Is it subject to creep? Sort of a HMMM? moment for me.

I tore out some subfloor in a house that had that type of glue a couple of years ago and I can tell you that even after 30 years that adhesive was a bear to break loose.

Re: Construction adhesive

Brian Holcombe

Consider that if that floor were applied with wood glue it would not be a bear to remove, instead it would not be removeable. I much prefer mechanical fasteners when something needs to be removable or strong and quick.

Re: Construction adhesive

Barry Irby

We basically ended up cross cutting the sheets of plywood (real plywood, not OSB) between the joists and then rocking the pieces side to side until we broke enough loose to rip it out. Then we spent a lot of time removing the ring shank nails and scraping/planing the tops of the joists to get them smooth enough to install new plywood.

In case you are wondering, this was a flip house and the previous owners had moved out and left their dogs behind. Either they or a neighbor came in from time to time and gave the dogs food and water. The dogs had no choice but to use the house as a bathroom. 11 sheets of plywood were so soaked we had to replace it. Also had to replace the lower 16" of drywall and all the ducts under the floor. Probably cost me $2500.

No...

John in NM

I rarely even use it in construction! I find it's adhesion to be inferior to most other adhesives and it's flexible nature to be short lived. Can't tell you how many 2x's & other construction materials I've taken apart that had a failed "Liquid Nails" application.

For joints that are a bit loose, epoxy is a better choice.

Re: Construction adhesive

Brian Holcombe

I’m just making the point that wood glue is a sturdier adhesive, not that I think s floor should be applied with wood glue.

A good glue joint is theoretically stronger than the wood. I kinda doubt that as the case got a construction adhesive.

Re: Anyone use Construction adhesive in the shop?

John McGaw

IIRC I used a bit of 'quick-grab' construction adhesive to fasten a base to my little home theater box. The base is there to make the whole unit 'float' and is recessed and painted black to remain unobtrusive (unless you get an eye right down on the floor you will never see it). I used that adhesive to because a) it was there and b) because I wasn't sure how gluing painted pine to MDO. Just to be sure I did put in a few screws afterwards and, short of gravity failure, it isn't ever likely to fail.

Otherwise, no.

Re: Anyone use Construction adhesive in the shop?

AlanWS

Heisz claims to use it because his shop is too cold for PVA glue to set properly.

Re: Anyone use Construction adhesive in the shop?

Barry Irby

My experience from my building days was that the good stuff was nearly permanent and excellent. In those days I trusted BF Goodrich PL 400. Other brands were a curse. The house I live in is one of the last ones I built as a spec house. (Chefs get to eat their mistakes, Builders get to live in them.) The underlayment in the kitchen came loose and ruined the vinyl. Would not have happened with PL400. Nowadays I see PL400 but it is made by Locktite. Wonder how that happened?

Re: Anyone use Construction adhesive in the shop?

TomD

I never use it in the shop. Not thrilled with it in construction. I know some people substitute it for epoxy in boats, which seems like a bad idea to me, as it is too flexible. My main beef with it is that it has poor wetting. I know that gorrilla type glues are highly toxic to wet skin. Since there is some overlap in the chemistry (to the extent that polyurethane appears in them, ) I wonder if there are similar toxicity problems. Another problem is that when I open a tube it never keeps, so it isn't even economical in a shop setting.