Attaching table tops Question???

Re: Attaching table tops Question???

John McGaw

I don't use Z-clips as such but the theory remains the same no matter the method. To my way of thinking your method of anchoring the long-grain ends to the center of the apron is appropriate to prevent movement. As for other attachments, as long as the method allows for sufficient cross-grain movement without binding there is probably no wrong way. If the top has gnarly grain and will be subject to seasonal warping as well as normal movement then more fastenings to a sufficiently-strong apron seem appropriate.

Re: Attaching table tops Question???

JL

I typically put fasteners on the ends of the tops. If I put something on the sides, I have a slot - so any contraction or expansion doesn't put strain on the top.

I have used figure 8 fasteners on occasion - they work well for ends.

"Z" clips

Mark Mandell - Gone Round In New Jersey

work for side-to-side movement. Depending on the wood and humidity range, they may fail when used in the in-out manner you describe.

If you want more support away from the table ends, put in several cross-braces attached to the apron, and then put your Z's on them but close to the apron. You can also use the braces to put a screw or two into the centerline as you did on the ends, and on the ends in slots with screw and washer.

Wow! Yet another thing I completely Misunderstood.

Depends on the strength of the apron

Dick Coers

Pretty easy for most aprons to flex with the wood movement as long as the clips aren't too close to the legs.

Re: Attaching table tops Question???

AZ in Colorado Springs

Barry, your technique is fine for a narrow top, where the movement is less on each side than the reach of the z clip.

For a wider top, add a brace and orient the clips for lateral movement.

It seemed to me....

Barry Irby

That if the clips were for side to side movement they would have two screw holes in them to keep them oriented into the slots. OTOH, I suppose the motion is slight enough that the clips could pivot back and forth with the seasons.

I have not had a failure, I'm just trying to improve.

a different thought

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

"Depending on the wood and humidity range, they may fail when used in the in-out manner you describe. "

I would say, depending on how tight you pull them down they may work fine in this application or, not. When installing they should be snug, not mashed into the wood.

PS I have used this kind of fasteners for decades without problem. I am well into my second box of 100, plus I have made a few spiffy ones from brass bar stock.

Correct

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

"I just watched a video from the Woodworking Guild of America that said not to attach the long edges at all and to put the z clips in the ends so they could slide left to right."

On a long table I might put one in the middle of the length, or better a pocket screw through the side apron.

Re: a different thought

William Duffield

Have you any pics of your spiffy brass clips?

I've used the drilled pocket with elongated clearance screw hole method on furniture of traditional designs, but I've also had to repair tops with wallowed out screw threads from seasonal movement of the screws over many years. I think metal clips, figure-8 fasteners, and wooden clips are better choices because they put less strain on the wood fibers in the screw holes.

Re: a different thought

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

They are bent to look like the ones you buy except now they are brass.