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Minwax Wipe On Poly Update

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Minwax Wipe On Poly Update

#1

Alan Young

Minwax Wipe On Poly Update

Alan Young

After reading through all the comments suggestions on my earlier thread (Wipe on Poly) I took the route suggested by David Yoho and our fearless leader-Ellis. The suggested regimen was 2-4 four coats of gloss followed by one coat of final desired sheen. Eliis suggested using Spar Polyurethane. I proceeded with three coats of Gloss Spar Polyurethane and one top coat of Satin Spar Polyurethane. I hand sanded between the gloss coats with 320 sand paper-with the paper wrapped around a sanding sponge. After the last gloss coat and before the satin coat I used the same 320 grit paper but with my Rigid Sheet Sander.


I sanded with this along the grain-wiped the dust off and applied the final coat- as I did the others with a foam brush.





Each gloss coat was thinned before application-approx 15%. The satin coat was thinned 50%. Overall I'm pleased with the results-If I were to do this again I'd thin the gloss coats a bit more-probably needing another coat to build the finish-but it would have made leveling better. And I'd think about semi-gloss rather than satin for final coat...

Re: Minwax Wipe On Poly Update

#2

Is that a solid wood or veneer top?


Re: Minwax Wipe On Poly Update

#3

Re: Minwax Wipe On Poly Update

David Yoho

Looks good from here :)

You mentioned semi-gloss. I probably use that sheen the most. In fact, I had to buy a can of gloss for the kitchen door job I recently did for a neighbor. However, in comparing the glossiness between the old door and the new one I was working on, I realized it was too glossy. So I applied the final coat using semi-gloss and it matched much better. I installed the door two days ago and the color and sheen were spot on with the others!

Re: Minwax Wipe On Poly Update

#4

Alan Young

I know what you're thinking!

Alan Young

No-Not Solid wood! But I did make a ridiculous amount of labor out of this piece.

The walnut veneer is 1/16 inch thick. I glued sheets of walnut to 1/8th birch plywood in my vacuum press.


Then I ripped to size ~ 13" wide and glued these sheets on each side of a 3/8" thick sheet of plywood. Final stack is balance like this:



My vacuum press is not big enough to glue these all at once to the middle 3/8 inch thick birch plywood so I glued these individual sheets (6 on each side) one at a time with cinder blocks.



Then I glued solid walnut around the edges



The extensions were fabricated in the same fashion.

Re: Minwax Wipe On Poly Update

#5

Re: Skeptical

William Duffield

I seriously doubt you achieved five digit precision on the thickness of your veneers.


Why spec it if you cannot realize it and it is totally unnecessary to the quality, durability or aesthetics of the finished product?

Re: Minwax Wipe On Poly Update

#6

Alan Young

Re: Skeptical

Alan Young

Hi William,

Not sure why I had the dims set to 5 significant numbers! Probably because I do use those for day job projects and didn't change the specs.

Re: Minwax Wipe On Poly Update

#7

habit!

Tony - Memphis

I do the same thing! I started life making race car parts (mostly out to 0.000 but out to that fourth place in a few instances). Interesting, I do a little bit of CNC and 3D printing and have learned that even those aren't THAT accurate (not mine anyway - I know the "real" machines are).

I had a professor chastise me once for answering a problem using way to many digits...in response, I invented the Ronco Super Ruler - accurate to 8 places! I got an extra credit for that! Life lessons!

Pet peeve - I hear a lot of woodworkers in videos and such say "perfect." There ain't no such thing!

Took me a long time to un-train myself going from machined automotive parts to woodworking tolerances. I finally figured out the theory of relativity - if it fits, it is perfect. I was also enlightened when I learned that wood moved and that no furniture was "perfectly" flat, square, etc.

Tony (who pretends to be an engineer by day)

Re: Minwax Wipe On Poly Update

#8

Oh, nice table!

Tony - Memphis

Looks great! I like the sheen you achieved. I'm not a big fan of high gloss.

Re: Minwax Wipe On Poly Update

#9

Re: habit!

Barry Irby

I have said before here....When I was working on a client's house we learned to say Perfect instead of Good or Good enough. So the definition of Perfect became very exact, that is, exactly good enough for this job.

The Client was much happier with Perfect rather than Good Enough.

Re: Minwax Wipe On Poly Update

#10

Re: habit!

William Duffield

I say it like Curly would have said it: "Poifect!" :D

Re: Minwax Wipe On Poly Update

#11

Re: Skeptical

William Duffield

It doesn't matter how many times I set the default dimensions in my drafting program to n a/b, it changes them back to n.xxxxx whenever I reboot it. Even my granite and antique cast iron surface plates aren't that accurate. :D

This isn't rocket science , but I can appreciate you needing that much precision in your day job.

Great table, by the way, even without optically flat surfaces.

Re: Minwax Wipe On Poly Update

#12

Re: Skeptical *LINK*

Bruce, a MN Galoot

As a truly remarkably off topic aside, take a look at Dan Gelbart’s lathe. He talks of .000001” precision.


Dan Gelbart’s lathe

Re: Minwax Wipe On Poly Update

#13

Re: habit!

Kevin French

They only problem is less then 1/2 the members got that

Re: Minwax Wipe On Poly Update

#14

Re: Wow!

William Duffield

That is so far removed from turning wooden bowls, Windsor chair legs, clock finials and carving mallets as to be almost incomprehensible. Perfect, not "poifect."

Re: Minwax Wipe On Poly Update

#15

Ellis Walentine

Re: Minwax Wipe On Poly Update

Ellis Walentine

Wow, looking very nice, Alan. As for semi-gloss vs satin, it's not too late to top it off with a coat of semi-gloss if you want a higher sheen. It won't have the clarity it would have had, but the surface sheen will be higher.

Thanks for the update. It looks like the result was worth the effort.

Ellis

Re: Minwax Wipe On Poly Update

#16

Re: habit!

William Duffield

Are the ones who don't "get it" the same ones who don't grasp the difference between accuracy and precision? :D I don't know who they are.

Re: Minwax Wipe On Poly Update

#17

Jason Roehl in Lafayette, IN

Re: Skeptical

Jason Roehl in Lafayette, IN

I don't think I've ever wanted something so much in my life. His zero-clearance piston with air valve at the beginning of the video was an effective hook.

Jason

Re: Minwax Wipe On Poly Update

#18

Re: Wow!

Barry Irby

I agree! WOW! Loved it. I want one.

Re: Minwax Wipe On Poly Update

#19

Re: Skeptical

Bruce, a MN Galoot

I’m with you there. I follow machinists forums. Gelbart is held up as the gold standard.

Re: Minwax Wipe On Poly Update

#20

Re: Skeptical

Larry Clinton At Frankfort, (Central) Indiana

My last position prior to my retirement about 12 years ago was the QS-9000 / ISO management representative. For those who believe you can measure to .oooo1, it is impossible in normal buildings. When you get to the 4th decimal, it requires a temperature controlled room +/- about 1 deg F. Parts that are required to be measured are placed in that room overnight, (we placed them on a 5' X 6' granite table so the temperature of the part would stabilize).

When the part is measured it cannot be held in a persons hand as the temperature would rise. Normally we used lazer equipment to do the measurements. We had to have all our Calibration standards verified traceable to the NIST on an annual (or shorter period). Our granite surface plate was verified yearly by an outside vendor using laser equipment. We had a Laser micrometer calibration machine for our quality standard micrometers.

People that believe they are accurately measuring to .0001 in normal shops are fooling themselves.

I have a number of micrometers and calibers that failed calibration due to tip damage etc. that were scrapped by my company. They are way more accurate for my use in machine setup and /or measuring tool bits etc. than I require.

Probably one of the most inaccurate measurement tools we use in Woodworking is our steel tape measures. I try to use the same one during projects to eliminate the differences in my various tapes, or to use story sticks.

Re: Minwax Wipe On Poly Update

#21

Re: Skeptical

Pat Riley

This is awesome.

I recently had some very unique optical parts manufactured for a system I designed. The lathe they used was so precise that an optical surface was achieved in a single pass with no polishing at all and no evidence of tool marks - even under a microscope. These tools are amazing.

Re: Minwax Wipe On Poly Update

#22

Re: Skeptical

Bruce, a MN Galoot

That’s an image I would love to see.

👍 This page answered my questions

Your vote helps other woodworkers quickly find the answers and techniques that actually work in the shop.