I have an old school bench with two vises that weighs a ton (or it seems to when we lift it). In the past 15 years, since I built it, I have moved it only twice. But lately I have had to move it several times to accommodate projects, park a car in the shop/garage, etc.
So now I am wondering how to do this easily.
First thought was to put it on a stand with rollers, like my heavy machinery. But will that keep it stable when I'm handplaning, sawing, etc?
I don't have room for a hydraulic engine lift or a pallet sled.
I was wondering if maybe a jig could be made for a car jack to lift a side up and put a dolly under or something like that. The wife and I are getting too old to do the lifting ourselves.
I lift mine, one end at a time with a hydraulic floor jack, similar to this one:
roll a furniture dolly under the trestle, and let the bench down on the dolly. Then, I do the same at the other end. I can then push it around the shop on the two furniture dollies. When I have it where I want it, I use the floor jack to get the dollies out from under the bench.
Rockler has bench casters on sale this week. Each one is rated for 100 Lbs. Don't know how much your bench weighs, but if it's 400 Lbs or less. these might be an option.
If you decide to use wheels, I'd build a platform to place the bench on, -- This will change the height of the bench, so be aware. If you use heavy duty wheels and chock them, the mass of the bench will be stable for hand work with properly cared for tools.. I'd choose solid rubber casters at minimum 200lbs. each. Puny 2" casters will make you resent installing them instead of 3" or 4" heavy duty wheels. Pay the going rate for better casters. Keep in mind the new bench height! While you're at it, put in an eye bolt on the platform so that you can use a hooked pole to pull the bench into position from the bottom rather than trying to rack the movement from the top.
I have to say that you're a bit late in planning. This should have been considered long ago. The only problem now though is the height of the bench, 4" or more of height may take getting used to --unless you can cut it down.
While casters are rated to carry a specified load, it doesn't seem that they are rated at that same number to carry a sustained load for long periods without developing flat spots or failing totally. Steel or cast iron being the exception. I have several heavy tools on steel angle iron carts with casters with about 3/4" clearance between cart frame and shop floor. Once in position, I jack the frame with a crow bar and insert a 1" thick wood block under it next to each caster. This immobilizes the tool and prevents the casters from developing flat spots or breaking under constant load. Might not adequately immobilize lighter machinery. Simply pry up the cart and remove blocks to move the tool. I have used everything from a pry bar, a high-lift jack, and a scissor lift cart to lift items in the shop. Wood blocks are your friend! If moving things frequently, I would invest in a pallet jack. You can store it with tines under a bench or put some of your stuff on a pallet and store the jack with tines under/in the pallet to preserve floor space.
There was a New Yankee Workshop episode where Norm built a bench. It had a flip down castor approach, basically a hinged set of castors which locked down to move it and then hinged back up. Google youtube for New Yankee Workshop and workbench and you should find it. Besides, who doesn't want a dose of Norm every now and then?
I put these on a heavy bench I keep in garage (need to move it to make room for car). They work very well. You do need to be able to lift each end just enough to push the levers down (or up) with your foot.
I'll tell ya...years back I realized that having a pretty "all wood" traditional bench was nice, but not practical for small shops, so I made a mobile bench. I can't remember the exact dimensions but I think it was something like 3' by 6'. I used pressure treated 4 x 4's for the legs and framed it with standard framing lumber, heavy duty locking wheels, then used a Melamine for the top and shelf. Made a large tool drawer, and a smaller one for tools used when fabricating. I dadoed removable stops that were at right angles to one another for slamming raised panel doors together for clamping after they were squared and slid out away from the stops. Had a woodworking vice on one side and a typical vice on the other. The height was the same height as my table saw, so I could use it as an outfeed table, then roll it away to a side of the shop I wasn't using. I even rolled it outside on one job ha ha ha. It was great for sanding, as well as putting face frames together and just about anything else in a shop. The melamine because the glue squeeze outs were easy to wipe clean as well as stain. Anything stubborn, a soaked rag of lacquer thinner took it off or made it easy for a razor blade clean up. When the top became to abused....another cheap 3/4" sheet of melamine could easily and cheaply be replaced....plus...it was FLAT, nice and white and looked great. Now, I'll admit it's a sacrilege not to have al all wood bench in a woodworking shop ha ha ha but...my bench sure as hell made working a pleasure. Oh...I also had a full length tray on one side with a peg board bottom, but they mostly filled with debris more than anything. I never bothered using dogs on a bench top my whole woodworking career...(there...I said it). Simply because I couldn't afford to tie up a shop top while projects dried, and I had a ton of regular clamps. My bench was a very functional bench, made for production and not to impress anyone of my woodworking skills. If you want to impress visitors...make a extra raised panel door, or difficult small piece curved, or arched top door and hang it from the ceiling. Trust me...people notice it! I wish I had a pic of my bench but think I described it pretty good.
The reasoning for the pressure treated 4x4's for legs, and regular 2x4's for the framing, is that I wanted to make a heavy bench. I used heavy duty rubber wheel casters under the legs that locked in place.
Jeex...will I ever stop adding stuff? ha ha ha One large and deep full extension drawer held my sanders and brad nailers. Generally all the power tools I use when working on the bench. Had a 3/8" air supply hose dangling from the ceiling where my bench "usually" was used the most. The smaller drawer had chisels, finishing plane, and other smaller stuff. I just know I forgot something else, but hell...forgetfulness comes with age ;-)
I've built a couple that I cut the bottom of 2 leg
Keith Newton
The top overhangs longer on the vice end, so on the bottom of the legs on that end, I cut an angle that matched the angle of my caster standing beside it with the wheel on the floor, and the top tilted over to where the top is resting on the floor. The wheel of course it outboard, and the weight will transfer onto it when the other end is lifted, otherwise the weight is on the bottom of the leg.
On my jobsite bench I added a wedge shaped block to mount the the caster onto. Its 3' x 4.5' x 2.5" thick solid mahogany top and 3x3 ash legs make it easy to just tip up and roll around like pushing a dolly.
The larger bench has the caster cut into the bottom of the leg. It has a maple bowling alley top with a 10" woodworking vise on one end, and big metal working vice on the other. It has long drawer under the top, with tool shelf about 12" high, then drawers under that which pull out from between the legs on the ends. I've not tried moving it since setting it up, but believe if I unloaded it, I could lift the other end with a dolly, then pull and push it around like a wagon.
If you or anyone else were planning it on the front end, or wanted to go back to add onto it. You can buy a trailer hitch for around $20, and get a trailer dolly for about $70. The hitch can be bolted onto a 2or3x4, which could come out from under the shelf just far enough to give the dolly plenty of room for tight turns without hitting the legs.
I refuse to work pressure treated wood in my shop. Not good for my tools, not good for me to breath, not good for fasteners. Very easy to laminate hardwood to 3.5 x 3.5" for legs if you don't want to use kiln dried pine 4x4s.
It's not like it was a huge project with days on end using the stuff Dick....geeesh. 4 cuts, and let in's for 2x4's. A quick project that doesn't drag on with laminations etc.
I don't care if you prefer it, I just don't care for it at all. I'm also from the school that suggests that a workbench reflects your work skills and style. I admire the guys that build a masterpiece of a tool box to show as a resume of their skills. Others work out of a bunch of tool bags and plastic boxes. It's just a different train of thought.
I can assure you I don't work out of plastic tool boxes, nor do I have all this bright white stationary pretty stuff in my shop either. I've been a pro for 40 yrs, and have done a lot of custom work. My work is my art, not my workbench...I work on it and it gets dirty. I'm not going to get into a pissing contest with you....just merely explained there ARE other ways out there even if they aren't yours and you don't approve. Sorry to have gotten your hackles up my friend...it wasn't intentional.
I hear ya! I'm not in a production situation, but I appreciate the benefit of both types of benches.
Actually, in addition to my traditional bench, I have another smaller one made from 2x4's and masonite. Both get a lot of use.
If my traditional bench were a little smaller, I could just take my 2x4 bench and swap its location with the big guy. The 2x4 bench is easy to move and my problem would be solved.
Re: My hackles are not up, only voicing an opinion
C John Hebert
Well....I can assure you that there was no insect damage from my 4 bench posts in my shop ha ha ha The reason I chose the pt posts were because of weight. I wanted a heavy bench that wasn't going to roll around so easy, or wobble. It would have been nice to use 4x4 fir posts, but they are pretty hard to find. I wanted something quick, inexpensive, and ready to work on quick, and this was to me, the best solution. When I relocated to Maine, I left it behind and the new homeowner loved it. Built another here and the nice part is that i just roll it out of the way in winter, to bring in my ATV and plow out of the-0 weather, and can still work on it, in it's new temporary location. Another thing I like about the surface is that it's "true flat". Just counter sink the screws, and remove it if a new top is needed and that hasn't been the case on either of the 3 benches I've made to date. I wish I could figure out how to post pic's on here due to eliminating my .com site when I retired.
Thanks again to all the posters - the ideas were great. I wound up trying the ench casters from Rocklers and they work great. Pretty much like the ones we use to make machinery mobile. It raises the bench about 3/4 inch off the floor. I can move my bench with one finger now!!
