Re: finishing over Epoxy questions
TM Stock
Lacquer over epoxy is a very common finishing system for guitar builders - pretty much one of the standard pore-filler/finish combinations in luthiery, where finish is always a make/break on a sale. I also see a fair number of builders using epoxy/waterborne finishes, and I've been trialing EnduroVar over both West 105/209 and System 3 SilverTip epoxies.
Things to watch out for/be aware of:
- Biggest issue is removal of amine blush if the epoxy is not a blush-free formulation...detergent and water, followed by final sanding and toothing should be a reliable means to remove any blush. Check with the manufacturer of the epoxy to confirm that the epoxy will/will not blush. My current favorite is System 3 SilverTip, which lacks the slightly amber color of West 105/205 or Z-Poxy finishing resin. I have stopped using Z-Poxy due to some concerns with continued shrinkage in some batches and excessive blush, but it is still a commonly used filler under lacquer.
- Shellac may be used as a tie coat with epoxy, along with the specific vinyl sealer called for by the lacquer manufacturer. For waterborne urethanes such as EnduroVar, no tie coat is used.
- If using the epoxy to pop the grain on woods that do not require pore filling, leave a very thin coat of epoxy on the wood - sand throughs to raw wood will be very visible on some woods (as a color and reflectivity/chatoyance change).
- Because epoxy penetration varies by product, species, and wood density, luthiers that use epoxy either do a full sand-back to wood or a final, very thin coat to ensure a uniform surface.
- Keep the applied epoxy coat thin - an Etore window-washing squeegee is the best thing I've found for applying and removing the excess epoxy. MyYouTube videos on epoxy pore filling cover prep and the mechanical aspect of application and removal...search on 'Epoxy Pore Filling Part 1"...focused on guitar bodies, but generally applicable.
- Both lacquer and epoxy can be vile stuff; wear gloves, respirator, and eye protection, if you are not yet sensitized to the nastier stuff in epoxy, the stuff seems fairly benign, but the solvents used for epoxy clean-up (denatured alcohol and acetone/lacquer thinner) are dangerous in and of themselves. Avoid the issue - use good medical-grade nitrile gloves and change them frequently if exposed to raw solvents (most of the nitrile disposables will take a good hit of acetone, but thicker gloves are needed to withstand repeated exposure).