Case/Face-Frame Preferences

Re: Case/Face-Frame Preferences

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

Our customers typically dadoed the face frame with about 1/8" between dado and outside edge of stile. I have found this to be a quick and secure way of assembly and have built two kitchens and assorted single pieces this way. Personally, I think it makes a more interesting side to the cabinet than a flush side. And, if you are butting cabinets together they butt more reliably. Just be sure to not wind up with crazy grain on the edge.

Bathroom vanity?

Dick Coers

I never had the courage to butt joint the face frame to the plywood case, but know several shops that do. I always add a few biscuits. For the face frame construction, I'd use dominos or Kreg Jig screws. Woe is the person that has to put their head inside a vanity to see the pocket screws.

Dadoes

Mark Mandell - Gone Round In New Jersey

have been my preference as well with the slight overlap functioning to protect the surface veneer on the ply.

Haven't decided whether to miter the corners or butt them, but either way they'll be getting dominos.

Re: Bathroom vanities

Mark Mandell - Gone Round In New Jersey

Yup.

Early on I used edge tape for the frameless "euro" look, but got tired of repairing that damn tape when they peeled after the hot-melt glue failed. Went to solid edgebanding for the look on open shelves, but cabinets need more strength to hang doors if you're not using cup hinges set on the inside walls.

Tried biscuits, but, while assisting with alignment, there's that telltale issue that likes to show up in a painted surface.

Simple butts for a case that's likely to get wet would not seem to be an option for me.

Re: Bathroom vanities

Dick Coers

If it sees enough water to break the joint all the way up the side, there's a lot more to worry about than a crack in the vanity. For the biscuits, I'm talking about the joint between the case and the face frame. I ran a business for 8 years in the early 90s. Used thousands of biscuits, never saw a telegraph issue. Waiting long enough to sand is the ticket.

Re: Case/Face-Frame Preferences

Brian Holcombe

I wouldn't use a face frame for a full overlay. I did this recently and chose to make the frame integral.

I have a few posts on a kitchen I'm building, but this one hits on the subject at hand pretty well:

https://brianholcombewoodworker.com/2017/09/15/kitchen-series-cabinets/

Re: Case/Face-Frame Preferences

Michael Wilkins

On a recent cabinet build, I used a slot cutter that cuts a slot the width of biscuits. Cut the slot on the front edge of the sides, top and bottom. Cut a corresponding slot on the back of the face frame. Space the biscuits around 6" apart and assemble like you normally do for biscuit joints. Works well and is very strong.

I might add that the slot in the back of the face frame parts was cut prior to assembly, while the rails/stiles were easy to handle.

Thanks All

Mark Mandell - Gone Round In New Jersey

Points are well taken but I think I'll go forward with the original dado option.