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Routing Free Hand

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Routing Free Hand

#1

Routing Free Hand

Don Evans

Need some advise, please.

I have an excellent router table, the 47" Incra with the Wonder Fence, great table by the way.

I have a job that requires routing the edge of a 5.25" wide cherry board that is 54" long. The length makes it not conducive to doing the ends on the table IMO. Sides of board would be no problem on the table of course.

The bit is an ogee and one end of the board is curved (an ogee) shape. I just don't feel the ends can be done safely on the table.

So, I decided I need to do it free hand and believe it or not after 40 years working with wood I've never done free hand routing!

I know how to do it except I cannot think of a way to do the shallow first cuts that are done before the final pass.

How does one do those with nothing guiding the bit depth?

If I make a template I could use the bushings and keep moving the template back is that the way? Is that the way to do it, until the bearing on the bit does the guiding?

Don

Re: Routing Free Hand

#2

Re: Routing Free Hand

Tom Norton

Clamp a straight edge to the board to guide the router base. First determine the distance from the edge of the base to the cut.

Re: Routing Free Hand

#3

Ellis Walentine

Couple things

Ellis Walentine

First, do you really need to sneak up on the guide bearing? I don't know how big your ogee bit is, but what would happen if you tried routing this profile with just one pass? I'd try it on a test piece if you're concerned.

Regarding technique, as long as you're routing from left to right (as you face the workpiece), it should be uneventful if you just take a partial pass. Feeding from right to left (climb feeding), on the other hand, gets dicier because the bit wants to accelerate across the work. In that case, you need to pay close attention to taking light passes and keeping a firm grip on the router.

Ellis

Re: Routing Free Hand

#4

You can make some cuts with shallower depth

Keith Newton

Or you might hot glue a thin strip for the bearing to ride, then remove it for the final pass. However I’d just do it freehand. Clamp the board, asume a linebacker stance with the elbows in close to your sides, and shift your weight from one foot to the other.

Do the ends before you do the sides, which will take care of chip out at the far end.

Re: Routing Free Hand

#5

Re: Routing Free Hand

Hank Knight

You can replace the original guide bearing on your bit with one with a larger diameter for a shallower cut. Then replace with progressively smaller ones until you get to the depth you want. Each cut should be slightly deeper that the previous one until you reach your final depth of cut. Most router bit manufacturers, Freud, Whiteside and CMT for examples, sell guide bearings of different sizes.

Re: Routing Free Hand

#6

Jim DeLaney, Austintown, Ohio

Re: Routing Free Hand - different approach

Jim DeLaney, Austintown, Ohio

When I did the undercutting on a 48" long coffee table top - using a raised panel bit - I did it on the router table.

I put a sawhorse to the front of the router table, then clamped a vertical piece of plywood to that to raise it to the height of the router table.

Then, resting the back edge of the tabletop on that, I made multiple passes, raising the bit each time, to get the undercut I wanted.

I felt that doing it that way was far safer - and easier, actually - than trying to do it free hand.

Re: Routing Free Hand

#7

Re: Routing Free Hand

David Yoho

This should be fairly easy to do on the ends. As long as your bit does have a guide bearing you can start off with shallow (depth) cuts and the bearing should still contact the edge. Just increase the depth of cut as you go until it's where you want it.

One other thing to think about - if only doing one long edge (side) the edge of the board not being profiled may well chip out as the bit reaches the end of the one end cut. You might want to back that edge with a piece of scrap to prevent this. If the profile is all the way around, then no problem.

Re: Routing Free Hand

#8

Re: Routing Free Hand

Don Evans

Thanks to all that answered, I think I got it now. Appreciate it...

Don

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