Making a Super Heavy table Top Question

Re: Making a Super Heavy table Top Question

Barry Irby

I there a particular reason they want it so thick? The weight will make it the bane of their existence every time they move, or even move it inside the house.

What I have done on two tables was to "fake it" We made the base of the table and then the top. In this case the base was rectangular. The top was thinner stock made up too long. Then we cut the ends off and "folded" them back under the top, keeping the glue joints lined up vertically. We also laminated a second thickness down both edges of the top. The folded end pieces were cut to fit between the edge pieces. The rectangle in the underside matched the size of the base, so when the top was installed it fit down over the base like a hat. If you play with the end grain alignment, even a fellow woodworker will not notice.

Then we angled the edges of the second (bottom) layer back, at the glue line. In one case the angle was about 15 degrees off horizontal. The piece went from 1 1/2" to nothing at the edges. The idea is the edge is exactly where the glue line is and conceals it. In the other case we made a large cove under the top, to the same effect. If you touched these tables you would have the sensation the top is twice the thickness. And because the frame is a rectangle if you sit at the table and feel underneath, you can't tell it's thinner. It cuts the weight about in half. On my son's, he doesn't even bother to attach the top, it just sits in place. (He has the hardware, just doesn't use it.)

If you decide to do it this way, don't forget to allow for the thinner top when you make whatever base.

I would not try to laminate two full sized tops. I'm sure it can be done, but I'm too old and too little.

Re: Making a Super Heavy table Top Question

paul in AZ

If you are glueing up 6/4 to get 3", doing that for the full width of the table seems like weighty overkill. Why not use a 4 or 6 inch border all around the underside with the central table being 6/4? This way the 3" look would still be there without the weight.

Something I've done on glued laminates is to add a very thin piece [almost veneer thickness] of contrasting wood between the two pieces. Rather than a faint glue line that third layer now becomes a design feature. Much easier to do than an inlaid accent strip.

Re: Making a Super Heavy table Top Question

William Duffield

I was going to suggest something similar, and the more I read your strategy, the more I agreed with it. I think I would do it exactly the same way. That's basically the same way I built my workbench. (Workbenches only need to be more than two inches thick along the front few inches, where you are chopping joinery.)

There is only one style of table that would benefit from a three inch thick top: a Nakashima style table.

Dimensions of table? Calculate the weight first

Dick Coers

I'd definitely put a rim around a 6/4 top, BUT, use a lamination across the ends so it shows end grain and grain is identical direction to the top. This won't restrict movement and cause cracking.

Re: Making a Super Heavy table Top Question

FWW just did an article on this. #261

Thick Tabletops from Thin Stock

Create lightweight panels with a heavyweight look

By Mark Edmundson #261–May/June 2017 Issue

Re: Making a Super Heavy table Top Question

Steve jenkins

I've made a LOT of tops like Barry suggested. Glue them up over long and over wide then cut and fold under all the way around. This give a nice bookmatch on all the edges. Glue up a few pieces of scrap,crosscut it and fold it go see if you like the look.

Re: Making a Super Heavy table Top Question

jesse cloud

That will be a bear to move.

Maybe you could talk them into a torsion box with veneer in the wood they like.

Re: Making a Super Heavy table Top Question

Bart S Goldberg

I'd be tempted to create the top using a torsion box design. You can accomplish the thickness without all that lumber and weight.

Re: Making a Super Heavy table Top Question

William Duffield

Depending on the customer's expectations, there can be problems with a torsion box. It can be very difficult to match the grain around the top and four edges (if they understand what the grain on the faces of a slab is supposed to look like), and they might object to the hollow sound, which is difficult to dampen.

Thanks

John Foster

Thanks for the tips

I think I will try make the table out of one layer of 6/4 stock, and use some of the techniques suggested to mimic a thicker top. Our local library does not carry back issues of FWW mag. ,but the library in a nearby town does. I will read the article.

I will try do my best, I know they will be happy with whatever they get; but my son is " grain sensitive" his hobby is making stave drums and segmented drums, so there will be no fooling him.

Thanks again

John

You are not fooling him....

Barry Irby

it just needs to be good enough to not disturb him and fool his guests. If he finds it acceptable, everyone else will not notice or care.