Curing a large "cookie" to make a table (or two?)

Re: Curing a large "cookie" to make a table (or tw

JL

I wouldn't leave it in your car unless your car is in a garage or carport.

Even in Fall, the interior of a car can heat up a bit.

As far as putting it "up" in your garage, that depends. If the trusses of your garage are open to the rest of your garage, there may be enough air movement. If (like mine) that area is "sealed" off - then I wouldn't put the slabs up there. My garage "attic" REALLY heats up in the summer.

Re: Curing a large "cookie" to make a table (or tw

Paul

JL, thanks. I live in portland OR. The car wont' heat up ... our rainy season has begun. But I will take it out of the car once I get it cut.

The top of the garage will heat up, but not for nine months at least. (Yes it's about 60% with flooring). A bigger worry is that it will get below freezing, but I have really no other place to put the slices.

Re: Curing a large "cookie" to make a table (or tw

John McGaw

Any chance you can find a company with a vacuum kiln to process it for you? There are lots of lumber-related operations near Portland. That would be a lot more reliable than winging it with uncontrolled air drying.

Re: Curing a large "cookie" to make a table (or tw

Don Stephan

Don't be surprised if it develops one or more large splits from the bark to the growth center as it dries. Wood shrinks on average perhaps 50% more along the growth rings (tangential) than across the growth rings (radial) and this creates stresses that often are relieved by splitting.

There was some recent discussion perhaps here with the suggestion to combine two disks into one after drying. If you do that, you might consider making one or two saw cuts, in different places on the two disks, so that the drying splits are offset.

Air circulation

Dick Coers

If you can't get much air under it for some time in the car, you might get mold under it. Both on the wood and whatever it's sitting on.

Re: Curing a large "cookie" to make a table (or tw

john lucas

You don't need cut it as long as you slow the drying down as much as possible. I hate pentacryl. seal both the top and bottom with Endgrain sealer. You can get it at Woodcraft. Until you can get some cover it in plastic but don't do this for very long because it will start to mold.

Once you seal all the surfaces keep it in an area with little air movement, no sunshine or heat other than the natural heat. You want this thing to dry slow. It may take longer than a year but if you try to dry it at a faster rate than it wants it will crack.

I cut a 2 1/2" thick slice off of a maple about 24" in diameter. It's down to 14% after a year and half in a shed that has water running through it when it rains. I just moved it into my shop to dry further.

Re: Curing a large "cookie" to make a table (or tw

Don Stephan

Not clear to me how slower drying will eliminate shrinkage stress. In a wooden bowl the wood warps to eliminate the stress, but wouldn't think sufficient warping possible for such a large through slab.

It's gonna split, regardless

Clint Searl

So let nature take its course, and put it somewhere it'll get plenty of air for a year or more, and deal with it. Who knows; you might get lucky.