I'm making solid oak door jambs for solid oak 6 panel doors. I find disagreement as to how much side clearance to build in between door width and side jambs. I have seen dimensions listed from 1/8" to 1/4". What does everyone use? Door stop material is 5/16" thick.
It depends on how square the framing/opening is. 1/2" total is typical for this area. There is no downside to having more than needed and you will be making them over if you can't square the opening up with what you allowed.
I think Bill and Ellis answered two different questions.
Bill (I think) was talking about the clearance between the framing of the house and the Jamb.
Ellis was talking about the clearance between the door and it's jamb.
Both are correct.
Locally, door openings are framed 2" wider than the door and 2" taller. So a 30" wide by 80" tall door would get a 32" by 82" opening in the framing. this would allow for pluming the jamb and squaring the oping and for the door to be raised about an inch off the floor. this assumes the thickness of the jamb material is about 3/4"
Allow about an 1/8" up both sides and across the top. The hinge edge of the door may be square, but the strike or knob side needs to be beveled about 3 to 5 degrees to allow for the swing.
Given all that 5/16" is pretty thin for the stops. Most I have worked with are about 3/8 or 7/16" thick.
Agree with 1/8" each side. Too little clearance and the door will bind. Too much clearance and your latch may not latch. I stacked two pieces of laminate sample from Home Depot as my spacers.
With a healthy 1/8" bevel on the latch side of the door the doors close and latch beautifully :-)
I just installed a bunch of doors, and left somewhere between 1/2" and 1" between the bottom of the door and the finished floor. I wish I had left around 3/4" for all doors as the door with 1/2" gap will bind if I have a floor rug near the door. The door with 1" gap is weird as the floor is very uneven in that area.
I answered how much clearance for the jam in the framing opening. As others have said, about 1/8" wider than the door, each side. That said, if the door rubs it is easy to plane it to where it doesn't. Close the hinge you will be using and figure the opening will be your clearance on the hinge side. Bevel the door edge and you can get by with less clearance on the strike side.
Agree! I have a habit of fitting to close then having to trim later.
As another item that was discussed cutting the bottom of the door for a 1" clearance is necessary if the door is on that remains closed in a home with a forced air heating/air conditioning system. That will allow return air from a normal floor register (30 square inches for a 6" heating / air pipe), to return to the furnace. This is not essential if there is a return air register in the room, but in most homes there are only one or at best 2 air returns installed for the forced air furnace/air system.
I also like to use 1/8" on either side. At my last house I installed custom oak doors throughout the interior and used solid oak to build all frames and stops (plus baseboard, window frames, sills, etc.) I liked the look and never had any seasonal issues. The guy who bought the house when we moved said the doors sold him on the house. He was very particular about his doors and all these closed with a gentle "snick."
Thank you to all for your replies. I was wrong, the oak stops are 1/2", not 5/16". Also, I was asking about door to jamb clearance which everyone seems to suggest 1/8" - 1/4".