Top on Chest of Drawers question

Re: Top on Chest of Drawers question

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

I am fearful someone will lift them by the top and rip it off.......they will be lifted by the top. Properly screwed the top will not come off.

I could glue it along the front rail. .....that doesn't eliminate the needs for proper screwing elsewhere.

A second question. What about applying the finish before final assembly? ...I don't understand what parts you are finishing before assembly. I finish the case, top and drawers separately , then install the top.

Re: Top on Chest of Drawers question

Don Stephan

There are ways to make a strong connection between the top and carcase and still allow for seasonal wood movement. Basically, screws can be driven into the top far enough to provide holding power without being so tight that the wood cannot move. Look in books, articles, and/or on the Internet for information on oval screw holes, figure 8 connectors, wood buttons, and so on. Of course, all depends on a top thick enough for sufficient screw penetration. But there will always be ways for people how don't care to damage furniture. Perhaps develop a narrative on furniture do's and don'ts and include with each piece you make? Laser engrave it onto each drawer bottom (lol)?

Re: Top on Chest of Drawers question

Gary Smyth

The top can be anchored at the front and even 23 gauge nails can be used further back as they have less mass than other fasteners and some flex (less desirable though). Far better to use screws with elongated holes or table top clips and allow for wood movement. I have to ask. Why is this a concern only now?

As for the finish why even consider not finishing before assembly of a new piece? I understand that it takes more time and the wait seems to last forever but take the time now while the weather is warm and humidity low.

As has been pointed out on lifting by the top, if you don't provide another option it will be lifted from the top as few people remove the drawers and lift by the frame. I don't know if you have room, but there are always lifting handles to be placed on the cabinet sides. There are many styles to choose. They are made from chromed steel, brass, bronze, stainless, to iron. Colors are available too. All function similar to campaign or Tansu furniture. Williamsburg uses them on at least one of their desks and the Bachelors chest also. If your top overhangs the sides by even 3/4" the bail style handles will not increase the footprint of the chest. Leather may also work. If you use marine deck or air transport style flush handles you don't have to worry about an overhang at all. If a looking at a bail style, look for a limiting stop to prevent squeezed fingers. On less formal designs two cup handles on each side will make movers pleased you included them.

Reality check

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

This problem was solved before 1600. Visit you neighborhood antiques store and see that it is possible to make a chest of drawers, fasten the top on with screws and have it survive moving countless times. No new inventions or techniques necessary.

campaign style..

Joseph Piotrowski

as i get older, i don't like man handling large furniture i'm considering building all my stuff like campaign furniture . at least in the sense its modular and can be carrier in small chunks.

also smaller and less clamps, easier glue ups. etc.

much ado about nothing

Joseph Piotrowski

your right. nothing to worry about. in the future they will use there phaser glue gun to re-attach it and nobody will care if you used a screw

Re: Top on Chest of Drawers question

Barry Irby

I have not installed the "false" fronts on the drawers. Or the top. It slowly dawned on me that I could finish the drawer boxes (shellac), the drawer fronts, The top of the chest, and the chest all Separately and then assemble the parts. It was a sort of "light went on" for me moment. It will be much easier.

Have you had luck spraying shellac?

shellac application

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

I apply shellac to drawers with a wide foam brush. Thin the Zinsser stuff about 1:1 for 1st coat. It can be sprayed, wastefully.

Domino tip

jesse cloud

Here's a fast and easy way to make the elongated holes for the screws:

Match a domino cutter to be a little larger than your screw head and a second, smaller cutter a little larger than the threaded part of the screw.

Set the depth of cut for the large cutter to a little more than the thickness of your screw head and cut a mortise, then set the depth of cut for the small cutter to a little deeper than the board, e.g. a through cut.

Voila, an elongated hole for the screw inside a 'counterbored' elongated hole to hide the screw head.

This works best if you clamp a piece of scrap for a fence and mark the center of the desired cuts on the board. Try it on some scrap and you will be convinced!!

Of course, you will want to cut all the big holes before doing the others to avoid unneeded bit changes.

Re: Top on Chest of Drawers question

Joseph Mulherin

Barry, the thought came to mind that one could install the top of the dresser using sliding dovetails on each side......but only about 2" length front and back. A single drop of glue at the end of the dovetail to hold the top in place but without the necessity of driving screws into it.

Think about this idea and make a small sample to try out......

Re: Domino tip

Jim Dillon

Jesse, a variation on your tip is to use the Domino to cut the elongated slot for wooden buttons to hold down the tops of coffee tables, end tables etc. Here is a pic showing the bottom side of an oak coffee table. I round the sides of the button "tenon" to allow more expansion room. Jim

Re: Domino tip

William Duffield

You can also use the Domino machine to cut mortises in the button stock, then glue in a row of Domino tenons, drill a row of countersunk screw holes, and saw the individual buttons off.