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TiteBond III?

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TiteBond III?

#1

TiteBond III?

Don Stephan

The Franklin page I found didn't describe what outdoor conditions III can tolerate, and I don't know the ANSI/HPVA Type 1 specification.

I've been asked to make some turned white oak posts that would be outside almost year round, and unpainted. They would be held upright with a loose dowel and a 12" x 12" x 3.5" square base resting on the ground.

Anyone have experience with this type of exposure? Otherwise I'll use West System epoxy.

Re: TiteBond III?

#2

Re: TiteBond III?

Bruce, a MN Galoot

I don't know about oak, but I glued up some cedar with titebond III that became handrails on my deck. They show no signs of separating, and I've looked.

Re: TiteBond III?

#3

Re: TiteBond III

Mark Mandell - Gone Round In New Jersey

Glue should be OK. Don't know about the wood. It will, of course weather uneavenly depending of direct sun exposure. Keep in mind the direct UV will degrade unpigmented epoxy.

Re: TiteBond III?

#4

Re: TiteBond III?

Joseph Mulherin

WHY unpainted?? A good acrylic paint(2-3 coats) will seal any cracks in the wood and around the dowel too.

Re: TiteBond III?

#5

Re: TiteBond III?

Don Stephan

Customer preference.

Re: TiteBond III?

#6

Re: TiteBond III?

Joseph Mulherin

OK, I understand now, but I would at least consider Spar varnish like the old sailors used on ships of old.

Re: TiteBond III?

#7

JL

Re: TiteBond III?

JL

Why don't you call them? "please contact out Technical Support Team at 1-800-347-4583"

Re: TiteBond III?

#8

Re: TiteBond III?

Don Stephan

I'll try to get through tomorrow (Monday), but too often I've found that people answering the tech support line have little experience with the product, and simply repeat the product brochure.

Re: TiteBond III?

#9

Re: TiteBond III?

TomD

So are we talking laminated and clear coated? Then the only sensible way is to laminate the blocks with epoxy, use no layers thicker than 3/4" and coat with epoxy. Coat with some Captains Varnish or a 2 pack clear. Anything much short of that will, fail, and there is a good chance that will fail, of course you can get lucky with anything. The main problem is that glues are moisture barriers, wood moves differentially, big pieces move more. Unless you proceed as mentioned, then the best bet is one piece real wood.

If we are talking stacked and raw wood exposed to the weather, it probably doesn't mater what glue you use, assuming it is just tenons. As near as possible to a solid piece would be the ideal. Finish with Decks Olje, or something similar, or leave it to the weather.

Another option is to simply encase an aluminum tube, like beads over it. Then you have a structure without any need to worry about the beads or coves becoming pathways to water, that will destroy the integrity.

Re: TiteBond III?

#10

Re: TiteBond III?

Barry Irby

TomD's answer gave me a pause. Traditional columns are made as hollow tubes. Tubes would expand and contract differently than solid laminated columns. Can you make them up as hollow tube glued with epoxy and then coated with spar varnish or even left to weather?

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