Replicating a finish

probably.....

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

.......white lacquer, glaze(no clue what tint), top coat of something clear, probably lacquer

Re: probably.....

Keith Newton

Are you sure you could go back over the glaze with lacquer? Seems like that would wrinkle.

Back in my early years, we just let the glaze be the final coat.

PS

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

The tech service for finishing companies-Mohawk, Guardsman, Sherwin Williams, Valspar- will provide a finish schedule for this finish. The problem now days is to make contact with them. In days past it was simple to just ring them up. However, give it a try. Mohawk may be easier to make contact with. If you can get to corporate tech service they will have on hand the materials and procedure to replicate this finish. (but I'll bet it is white lacquer to begin with, then glaze. ) You will need a water white top coat so it doesn't go yellow over time.

Re: probably.....

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

You are not remembering correctly. A full finish schedule is stain of some sort, typically ngr, some sort of sealing coating, glaze, top coats. Glaze is just a very fine oil pigment stain. Of course it can be coated as well as any oil based stain can be coated.

I don't know anything about water borne finish schedules.

It works well if plenty of drying time

Dick Coers

You can't rush the drying time of glaze with a top coat. Water based glaze is faster, but too fast in some cases.

It's been so long ago,

Keith Newton

I think I was mixing my own, and I've forgotten what all was in it. It seems like universal pigments, linseed oil, sanding sealer, and some thinner.

One brush to put it on, then newspaper wad to soak most of it off, then a dry brush to pounce and move around to smooth it out, constantly wiping it out to keep just the right amount in the brush, without leaving any brush marks.

There is a bit of a learning curve to know just how much to wet out, wipe off, then work the rest while it's at the right viscosity before it gums up.

I'm not sure what the stuff they sell now has in it.

easy to use

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

I have only used the commercial product....primarily Mohawk. It goes on silky smooth, stays the consistency of heavy cream for more than enough time to refine the appearance by wiping and brush. It is the easiest part of the finishing schedule to deal with. Such a thin layer is left behind there will never be an adhesion of cracking problem.

As you sure you were not thinking of filler? That has the issues you describe. It takes some experience.

Re: probably.....

Steve jenkins

Depending on your topcoat you may have to use a vinyl sealer first. I refinished a table top twice and the topcoat cracked after a week or so. I was using Valspar conversion varnish for a topcoat. Called them and they said to use the vinyl sealer over the glaze. No problem

details please

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

I have used Sherwin Williams conversion varnish for many years over everything without issue. They too recommended vinyl sealer but I got lazy stocking it and quite long ago. I just acquired 5 gallons of Valspar conversion varnish. I was expecting to use it like the SW material, that is without worry.

Please tell exactly what went under the varnish, and details of how, such that I can avoid this situation. Include, was the glaze a thick coat or typical of glaze- apply and wipe most of it off? Solvent based? How long was it allowed to dry? How thick was the first top coat over it? Thinned any?

I always thin 1:1 first coat of conversion varnish, then scuff sand.

Re: details please

Steve jenkins

Been 15-20 years so a bit foggy. Maple top, sprayed dye stain,sealed with not sure what, oil base glaze to give some brownish graining, mostly wiped off. Topcoat. Did that twice and it cracked both times. I thin my conversion varnish 10% with butyl acetate. Oh I let the glaze dry for a couple or three days.