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Acclimating lumber

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Re: Acclimating lumber

#26

Re: Dealing with panels warping, or not

Brian Holcombe

I've had similar experiences to Derek and resawing but I tend to believe it is due internal tensions.

Some boards have been around for a very long time and still there outer layers will cup or bow and center will usually stay perfectly flat. Some will relax a bit after being properly stored for a few days and I almost never have a panel that turns into total junk except on a very rare occasion.

By contrast I resawed veneers from an 18.5" wide piece of flat sawn white oak, pretty much expecting it would be hellish, but the result they remained perfectly flat. I brought it to the shop from the mill one day prior.

Re: Acclimating lumber

#27

Re: Dealing with panels warping, or not

Sgian Dubh

"The question I have is whether internal tensions in the wood surface are a factor that we need to be aware of, and if we can deal with them? I have seen some boards begin to warp soon after re-sawing, and I have assumed that this is partially the result of disequilibrium of moisture. But not solely due to moisture. I had had boards warp as I cut them, some as badly as twisting into a pretzel as they come off the bandsaw.

Derek, a marked moisture gradient within the wood might be a cause of wood cupping and bowing off the saw, but that is more likely to indicate wood that is either improperly dried, or wood that has been allowed to somehow either gain or lose moisture rapidly from one or more faces.

'Pretzelling' in my experience is more likely to be the result of internal stress, e.g., case-hardening or the rare reverse case-hardening. It's sometimes useful to do the fork or prong test if your resawing involves deep ripping (to make a book matched panel for instance), or even other rips. This test will generally reveal problems such as case-hardening pretty quickly. Slainte.

Re: Acclimating lumber

#28

Ceeeee-rect. 


Re: Acclimating lumber

#29

Re: Dealing with panels warping, or not

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

fork or prong test

What is this, Richard? Are you referring to a moisture meter?

In case I was not clear, I am asking how we predict tension in the wood, and what we can do to relieve it.

Just for reference, much of the wood I use is usually air dried, received from a local urban salvage yard - and remember I live in Western Australia. Very dry and hot for most of the year.

Regads from Perth

Derek

Re: Acclimating lumber

#30

Re: Dealing with panels warping, or not

Sgian Dubh

"fork or prong test

What is this, Richard? Are you referring to a moisture meter?"

I should perhaps have included a link to some drying faults and the fork or prong test information in my previous post. I forgot, sorry.

Incidentally, rather than trying to predict tension you're really looking for stress: tension is just one form of stress, there's also compression, torsion, etc.

If the fork or prong test reveals stress you're almost certainly wasting your time trying to deep rip a wide board to get a book matched panel. You are more likely to be able to use it if you can keep whatever stress is in there balanced, e.g., by taking roughly equal amounts off each face. You could also put that piece through a stress relieving cycle in a kiln - most likely not worth it for a single board, unless you can cobble together some sort of small home made stress relieving kiln/ device.

So, given that, it might be best to move on and find another solution to your wide panel challenge, e.g, use a different stress free board for deep ripping, or find two boards with an alternative suitable grain match. I find it acceptable to take boards that are 25 - 32 mm thick and work them down to 10 - 12 mm thick to make panels and other parts, e.g., drawer box parts. It means casually shooting up the extraction system anything up to roughly 20 mm of thickness. That's my attitude to the raw material, which I imagine others might disagree with, but it's a generally reliable methodology, and reliability has always been something of a priority for me in the kind of supplier/ client relationship I work in. Wood is cheap compared to labour, so the wood gives every time if necessary.

As to your point about using native air dried wood in western Ockerland, I can't say for sure what you're likely to be dealing with. But at a guess, it wouldn't surprise me to learn it's possible to air dry wood to something like 10% MC, unlike here in the UK where about 18-20% MC is about as low as you'll ever get for air dried stuff. And 10% MC I imagine is acceptable for indoor furniture projects in Perth, where presumably AC and other climate control measures keep habitable buildings pleasant enough to live and work in, a bit like the hell-hole of Houston where I lived for a while - hot, humid and miserable as sin outside for most of the year, but pleasant enough as long as you didn't stray far from your house, office, car, shopping mall, or swimming pool adjacent to a shaded bar, ha, ha. Slainte.

Re: Acclimating lumber

#31

Stress relief

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

On the topic of acclimation, stress in lumber will not be affected by acclimating the lumber in the shop upon receiving it. Only steaming will relax stressed lumber, unless you count the stress relieving twists and bends that happened when stressed lumber is machined.

Re: Acclimating lumber

#32

Re: Dealing with panels warping, or not

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

Richard, thank you so much! That is a terrific article! It should be (with your permission) placed in the archives here and in a prominent position!!

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: Acclimating lumber

#33

Re: Dealing with panels warping, or not

Sgian Dubh

My pleasure Derek - glad you found it helpful. I guess it would be fine if someone wants to somehow link to that web page at the WoodCentral archives. Slainte.

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