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PM90 to buy or not to buy

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PM90 to buy or not to buy

#1

PM90 to buy or not to buy

cameron youngstrom

Hey guys,

I've posted a few times here on my desires to expand from the flat stuff and give turning a shot (aim is some spindle work but mostly I'm expecting to make bowls/vases and cups that might end up on Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade II), agonized over shelling out the cash to buy a lathe, if so which etc etc. I see that someone has a rebuilt PM90 with riser blocks that allow for 20" diameter clearance (VFD, new motor belt and bearings) for which he is asking $1200. Knowing very little about these things I did see some posts about this lathe being somewhat top heavy and that presenting some potential issues with turning bowls (exacerbated by riser blocks I would imagine) as well as it having a smaller spindle. Are these legitimate concerns? Any other issues to be aware of? I have gotten to the point in my life where I would rather buy something that will meet expectations and last a lifetime as opposed to buying 3-4 on the journey but I'm not rich so if this could fill those shoes I'd rather make the purchase versus having to save up for another year-ish to get the 3520

Thanks

Re: PM90 to buy or not to buy

#2

Re: PM90 to buy or not to buy

Craig Daymon

One thing I know of about the machine that may impact your decision is that not so much that the spindle is smaller than a 3520, but that it is an odd size. Meaning that accessories (faceplates and chucks) might be harder to find. The 3520, and a large number of other lathes, has a 1-1/4"x8tpi spindle. The PM90 has a 1-1/8"x8tpi spindle. (JET Mini has a 1"x8tpi spindle.)

The most common spindle sizes are 1-1/4"x8tpi, 1"x8tpi and the Oneway size of 33mm, which I think is also 8tpi. There are a few others, some larger, but they are fairly rare.

Re: PM90 to buy or not to buy

#3

Re: PM90 to buy or not to buy

David Walser

A lot of good work has been done on PM90s. Updated with electronic variable speed control and an increased swing, the lathe should equip you to turn virtually anything you'd like to. Even with these updates, newer, more modern lathes, would have convenience and ergonomic features that you might find attractive. However, such lathes will cost a lot more than $1,200.

Re: PM90 to buy or not to buy

#4

Does it still have the reeves drive in it?

Dick Coers

All lathes need a second method of speed reduction to keep the motor in high torque. If this lathe still has the reeves drive along with the VFD, I would pass. They need maintenance and are noisy. It takes a while to find a good deal, but I know of 3 Jet 1642, 1 1/2 hp lathes that have sold for $1000. I have one, our club got another, and a friend who mainly builds furniture bought another. So they are out there, and sounds like it would suit you for a long time.

Re: PM90 to buy or not to buy

#5

Re: PM90 to buy or not to buy

Keith Newton

How many HP does the new motor have? VFD is nice, but if you are going to turn larger vessels, you need more power as the diameter increases.

Is it on a steel cabinet base? A lot of turners try to make them more stable with sand bags on the lower shelf. This doesn't do much IMHO, compared to widening the stance, and even then, if the connection to the cabinet is only into thin steel, it will still wiggle when you have a blank out of balance.

Finally, don't even think about turning outboard on this lathe. The headstock looks pretty substantial, but the outer bearing is inboard of the big pulley, so the outboard faceplate will be out about 6" from that bearing. Combine that with the relative short distance between both bearing, really puts a strain on both. Think of it in terms of leverage and fulcrum in reverse.

Re: PM90 to buy or not to buy

#6

Re: Does it still have the reeves drive in it?

cameron youngstrom

Not sure on that point, thanks for the direction

Re: PM90 to buy or not to buy

#7

Re: PM90 to buy or not to buy

cameron youngstrom

says new 3hp baldor motor and it is on the original base.

Re: PM90 to buy or not to buy

#8

Re: PM90 to buy or not to buy

Bob Ballard

The inboard spindle thread on the powermatic 90 is 1 1/2"x 8 tpi

Re: PM90 to buy or not to buy

#9

Re: PM90 to buy or not to buy

Craig Daymon

My mistake. Thanks for the correction. So that's actually a better thing, but still suffers from the same issue I mentioned, in that it is a non-standard size. I know Oneway does offer an insert for their chucks, but most catalogs don't carry it so you have to order direct.

Re: PM90 to buy or not to buy

#10

Re: PM90 to buy or not to buy

john lucas

Also I believe the tool post for tool rests is an odd size but I may be wrong. It's been a long time since I've seen one but In think the tool post is 1 1/8". Most new lathes are 1/8".

All in all it's not a bad lathe. I can't believe anyone worried about the lathe being top heavy. I doubt you can push one over. They are quite heavy and stable. It might not be the best thing to turn a 20" bowl even though it has riser blocks but would still be a good lathe for most bowls smaller, and who needs a 20" bowl anyway. I've had several laying around for years. No one buys them.

Re: PM90 to buy or not to buy

#11

Re: PM90 to buy or not to buy

David Walser

Another comment: Years ago, I toured Dale Nish's personal shop. Dale was the founder of Craft Supplies USA and could have had any lathe then available. What lathe was in his shop? A PM 90 that he bought for a song when the local school district liquidated its woodworking equipment. Dale turned museum quality pieces on that lathe.

Re: PM90 to buy or not to buy

#12

Re: PM90 to buy or not to buy

Doug Ladendorf

Correct that the spindle is 1-1/2" X 8tpi. Given how common these were its not hard to find faceplates etc. some chuck manufacturers have the 1-1/2" 8 adapters. You can also get an adapter from Best Wood Tools and others to use other sized tooling. Has a common#2 morse taper. Conover lathes also used 1-1/2" 8tpi. The reeves drive in these older machines is not the problem it has been in the newer Deltas and others where they used insufficient material. The bed is a very heavy casting, and i know some people have filled the cabinet with sand for additional weight.

Re: PM90 to buy or not to buy

#13

Brad Vietje

Re: PM90 to buy or not to buy

Brad Vietje

I'm about to do a demo on one, and probably offer a follow-up class at a regional makers space/school shop. The PM 90 is in great condition, runs smoothly and quietly, and the Reeves drive is in very good (and quiet) condition. BTW: these are the Reeves drives you want -- NOT the Delta's.

I agree with David and Doug on this -- very fine work can be turned on these, and face plates and chucks are not that hard to find, though your selection will be more limited. I've asked the shop manager to order a OneWay Stronghold if we end up holding the class, and a 4" faceplate from BestWood Tools in either case.

The one I will be using is probably in great shape because the 25-year+ industrial arts/shop teacher is a metal working guy, and has almost never used it. He has, however, assembled a very impressive collection of metal-working tools, some of which I'll have to learn how to use! I'm almost entirely the opposite -- all wood and no metal. There are plenty of examples of White Pine 3x3 pieces about 18" long that were used to teach spindle turning -- no wonder nobody got excited about turning!

I would say $1200 for a 230 volt(?), 3ph(?), VFD upgrade with a 3hp Baldor motor is a very solid value if all is in good condition, and everything works. Even without all those upgrades, a PM-90 in good working condition is still a pretty nice workhorse of a machine.

Safe spinning,

Brad Vietje

Newbury, VT

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