Best Saw Blade

by Forrest Addy

What is it about brand loyalty or seeking the best saw blade? All saw blades are about the same given equality in tooth count and kerf thickness. The difference lies in the cutting edge as received from the factory. After a year in the shop all blades will dull and thereafter the quality of the cut depend on your saw sharpening service. What you buy is the initial sharpening. After that it's usage and the saw shop's expertise and care that makes the different between a good saw blade and one that's not so good.

I swear and maintain the major difference in most saw blades is the keenness of the cutting edge and the best balance of the tiny side clearance angle. Years ago I bought Tool Town cheapos at $10 a three pack and ran them through my saw filer's shop. He sneered at them, then noted the husky carbide tips and conceded it would be interesting to see if a good blade could be made from them. $40 later I took them home and tried them. No burn, very little flutter, and smooth cut were my primary impressions. At that time the better Sears blades were going for about $45 each so I got a deal.

What I take from this recollection is that it's probably a more profitable strategy to consider a saw blade manufacturer as an initial sharpening service. If the saw blade performs well, and cuts clean and smooth, then the other factors—perfection of the plate, etc.—are moot.

By the way, don't fall for the fine-grained carbide scam. It's all fine-grained these days. There are but four carbide sintering plants in the world today and they are intensely competitive. Thus carbide starter materials are commodities like corn and pork bellies, their as-manufactured quality is very high, and the price paid by end-users is based on quality and specialization.