Fixing Finishing Runs

David Hay @ Denver asked: I sprayed the opposite side and edges of some doors and drawer fronts last night with the seal coat of garnet shellac. In the process I managed to get the finish a little thick in a couple places and had some runs. What's the best way to fix the problem? Just sand it down with some fine grit sandpaper or steel wool? Rub it out with some additional shellac? Carefully smooth it out with some denatured alcohol?

After this coat, I intend to spray several coats of varnish on the doors, if that makes a difference in how to fix the problem.

Steve Jenkins, Dallas TX: The best way to remove runs in any finish is to either use a cabinet scraper and scrape them off or a razorblade and shave them off. If you try to sand them you will sand more around the run and end up with bare wood surrounding a bit of finish. Not too bad a thing unless there is stain that you sanded through in the process.

Bill Tindall: I never had any success sanding runs out either. It was good motivation to learn not to get them in the first place!! I was wondering if a sharp block plane would be successful approach? Have never tried it but it seems like it would be easier to control removal of high spots run than using a scraper.

Mac in Indy: It's (a scraper) the first thing I reach for when fixing finish runs. A good sharp scraper should leave the finish smooth enough for the next application of finish. If not a piece af very fine grit sandpaper on a cork block lightly brushed across the spot a couple of times will smooth it out

Dean J in MN: This is just a seal coat, correct? Why not use the fact it is shellac to your advantage and just take it off and start over?

I've had good luck taking shellac off when there is stain on the piece. On the other hand, most of the stain I use have a mineral spirits type solvent, and would not be dissolved by alcohol.

Bruce, a MN Galoot: A sharp card scraper is the way to go. It works amazingly well.

Ellis Walentine: …[and] when you are tuning up that scraper, once you have filed it square and honed the edges perfectly, try using it just like that. I have found that there is no need to roll a hook onto a scraper edge for this type of repair (which I used to do quite frequently with sprayed lacquer jobs). Hooked edges tend to be a little scratchy by comparison.