Rip Dozuki Review

by Christopher Schwarz

As promised, here is the first draft of my review of two new rip dozuki saws that we have scheduled for publication in February 2004. This thing hasn't been edited (apologies in advance for typos) or fact-checked (except by me). So if you notice anything there, feel free to ping me off-list.

More importantly, if you think I've left anything out or if I leave you with big questions, let me know. This thing can't get much longer, but I will try to squeeze in what I can. Also note that there will be photos of the different teeth configurations (which are still at the lab).

True Japanese Dovetail Saws

2 new rip-tooth dozuki saws are efficient dovetailers.

Cutting dovetail pins and sockets is primarily a ripping operation. So it has always bewildered me that almost every Japanese saw sold for dovetailing had teeth designed for crosscutting or plywood.

A few specialty importers do sell Japanese backsaws with a rip-tooth configuration, but these are made mostly by hand and cost between $133 and $182.

Why, I wonder, isn't there a machine-made dozuki that sells for about $35 – the cost of a decent-quality crosscutting dozuki? Well I don't have the answer to this question yet, but there are now two new rip-tooth dozukis on the market that are considerably less expensive, between $70 and $80. To check the quality, I compared them to an expensive rip-tooth dozuki I am quite familiar with, the Kaneharu ripping dozuki sold by Hiraide America for $182 (see the Sources box for more information).

To understand how the less-expensive saws are different, it's best to first know a little bit about the Kaneharu.

Kaneharu: Small and Perfect

For anyone familiar with traditional dozukis, the Kaneharu appears small. At about 18-7/8" long with 6-3/4" of the blade devoted to teeth, the Kaneharu is about 4" or 5" shorter than most dozukis in our shop.

The teeth are different, too. Crosscut dozukis traditionally have teeth that are all the same size. The teeth on the Kaneharu start small near the handle (15 teeth per inch) and get larger toward the toe of the blade (10 teeth per inch) – like the rip teeth on a ryoba saw. The graduated teeth make your cuts easy to start:

You make your initial kerf with the smaller teeth. And once you get going you use the full blade and the saw dives through the wood. For someone used to cutting dovetails with a crosscut saw, the difference is significant. A dovetail that would take 14 strokes to cut with a crosscut dozuki takes only 10 with the Kaneharu. Plus, it's my opinion that the rip saws track better than the crosscut saws during a ripping operation. The quality of the cut surface is as good as any dozuki I've tried – no matter what the tooth configuration.

Lee Valley: Easy to Use

The rip dozuki now offered by Lee Valley Tools shares some of its DNA with crosscut dozukis.

The handle and blade are longer like the traditional crosscut saw (23-3/4" total length; 9-5/8" of teeth). The teeth are finer than those on the Kaneharu – 18 teeth per inch. Plus, the teeth have a small secondary bevel filed on them. This secondary bevel – called the "fleam" in saw parlance – is what allows crosscut saws to sever the wood fibers like a knife. The fleam on the Lee Valley saw is small enough not to interfere with a rip cut (which is mechanically similar to levering out the sawdust with a chisel). But the fleam is large enough to allow the saw to be used for some crosscutting chores.

Finally, the rip teeth are more durable than crosscut teeth. In a month of testing I haven't had any problems with snapping teeth – even in notoriously ring-porous woods such as white oak.

Because the teeth are small, the saw is easy to start. And while it cuts a little slower than the Kaneharu, it's decidedly faster than a crosscut dozuki and leaves a very clean cut surface.

Harima-Daizo: For the Expert

The Harima-Daizo from Tools for Working Wood is a ripping monster. It seemed to consistently outpace the other two saws when it came down to pure speed. I chalk that up to the fact that it has deeper gullets and fewer teeth (10 teeth per inch) than the Lee Valley saw and it has a longer blade than the Kaneharu (9-5/8" long).

The downside to the Harima-Daizo is that it was harder to start the cut than with the other two saws. While I personally never had any problems, beginners and those unfamiliar with Japanese rip saws reported difficulties with starting the cut, particularly in softer woods such as cherry.

Like the other two saws, the Harima-Daizo tracked perfectly straight in the cut, left an excellent finish and had durable teeth.

Which Saw is for You?

If your budget allows it, the Kaneharu is hard to beat. (The Japan Woodworker catalog also offers a similar saw with graduated teeth, the Izeamon dozuki rip saw, for $133.)

For the beginning dovetail saw user, the Lee Valley (at $69) is probably best and it also will pick up some crosscutting chores. And for the advanced user, the Harima-Daizo ($79.95) is my pick.

But the more important point here is how well these three saws perform compared to the crosscutting and combination-teeth Japanese saws. The rip teeth are far more robust than the crosscut teeth – say goodbye to that depressing "tink tink" sound you hear when your saw teeth snap.

Another important difference is that all of these saws can be resharpened – they are not replacable-blade saws. This is a good thing or a bad thing depending on your point of view. These three rip saws track better in a rip cut. Plus they leave an excellent finish. They are, in short, the right tool for the job.

Sources

• Hirade America, 877-692-3624 or japanesetools.com

  Kaneharu Ripping Dozuki, $182

• The Japan Woodworker, 800-537-7820 or japanwoodworker.com

  Izeamon 81/2"-blade Dozuki Rip Saw, item #05.114.21, $133 (also available in two longer sizes)

• Lee Valley Tools, 800-871-8158 or leevalley.com

  Rip-tooth Dozuki, item #60T04.04, $69

• Tools for Working Wood, 800-426-4613 or toolsforworkingwood.com

  Harima-Daizo Deluxe Rip Dozuki, item #MS-JS340, $79.95