A Long Discussion and Brief Review of Tool Rests

Part I: Straight Rests

Updated 4/18/03

by Lyn J. Mangiameli

As I see it, there are basically three general categories of tool rests based on style and intended use; Straight arm general purpose toolrests, Curved or reverse curved toolrests meant to assist in turning the inside and outside of bowls, and Pivot point/Gated tool rests designed for hollowing. There are also a few specialty toolrests either for box making or the secondary toolrests meant for deep hollowing. I'm going to divide this discussion according to those categories.

Stock tool rests

(12-15 inches on full sized lathes, 5-8 inches on smaller lathes, almost always cast iron, integral post)

Every wood lathe I know comes with at least one straight tool support bar toolrest. These general purpose toolrests usually range between 12-15 inches for larger lathes and 5-8 inches for smaller mini lathes. The length of all factory supplied straight tool rests represent a compromise, allowing enough length for convenient use for longer spindle turning, but short enough to allow the trailstock to be brought up close for smaller boxes and bowls. Some manufacturers, such as Oneway, Hegner, Delta & Teknatool offer a shorter (usually 6 inch) version of their standard tool rest as an option.

Nearly all of these toolrests are made of cast iron and have a post integral to the overall toolrest. My direct experience has been with the 12 inch toolrest provided with my Nova 3000 & DVR and the 6 inch toolrest that came with my Jet Mini. With a few exceptions, factory supplied tool rests do a fine job, being sufficiently "beefy" to withstand catches and rough tool use. (The most notable exceptions are those that come with the Jet lathes, which have been notorious for sudden failure. I went several years without such a break, then one day, mine suddenly broke as well.) The high point of the standard tool rest, that edge upon which the tool usually bears, is closest to the wood. This allows the tool to be supported on the rest as close to the wood as you are willing to move the rest (more on this in a moment). The body of most of these toolrests slowly angles down and back from this forward edge and offers a smooth and safe surface against which to place one's hand (and if it isn't, a file or sandpape r can be used to smooth this area).

Probably the greatest drawback associated with these factory supplied rests is that the cast iron construction results in a fairly soft forward edge that can be nicked and dented by the turning tools, particularly parting tools and flat skews that lack a radiused edge. As most know, it is a constant task to file this edge smooth so as to allow unimpeded movement of the tools across the rest. It is not uncommon for some turners to run a file along their tool rests one or more times every turning session. Off course the silver lining of such a soft edge is that it is gentler on your tools.

Sooner or later, most of us find the tool rest supplied (or available optionally) from the manufacturer to be either too long or too short for some projects we are interested in. When that time comes, one goes in search of an after market tool rest, or makes (or has someone else make) up a custom rest.

Aftermarket tool rests

(usually modular systems offering at least 4, 6 & 12 inch lengths and interchangeable posts)

In the world of after market tool rests, two tool rest systems stand out. These are the Woodcraft tool rest system and the BestWoodTools tool rest system. Recently, Sorby also has come to the market with a Modular tool rest system. These modular systems are notable in that they offer the tool support bar separate from the post that mates it to the banjo. This allows different diameter and length posts to be used with different length (or, as discussed later, shape) tool support surfaces by just screwing the threaded post into a hole tapped in the tool support bar. Unfortunately, the threading on all of the systems is different, so parts between the systems are not interchangeable.

Different manufacturers and models of lathes can use very different tool posts, both in cross section (generally from 5/8 to 1.5 inches in diameter) and in length (generally from 2.25 to 5 inches). Both these dimensions are critical to a successful match between the tool rest and your lathe. The Woodcraft system offers five different posts, covering probably 90 percent of all lathes. Sorby offers seven different post diameters, ranging from 1/2 inch to 30 millimeters), all of which are 5 inches in length. The BestWoodTools system includes nearly 30 different post configurations (nicely labeled for the lathe they fit), and if one of them doesn't fit your lathe you can contact them and they will make a custom sized post for you.

Beyond allowing a perfect fit to your lathe, these modular systems have several other potential advantages. If you have only one lathe, you can purchase only one post and use it with several different lengths of tool support bars. This is a cheap way to obtain tool rests of several different lengths, or at least to more inexpensively experiment with just how useful an additional size of rest might be. Frankly, if you find yourself switching between different length support bars often, you will probably want a separate post for each length. Still, for only the occasional use of a couple of sizes, switching one post between the tool support bars can offer a significant cost savings.

If you have more than one lathe, or anticipate getting another lathe, a modular system will allow you to switch rests between them after a simple post exchange. Again, if you were to find yourself regularly changing a given toolrest between lathes with different post characteristics, you might soon desire a dedicated tool rest for each lathe. But for occasional changes, having two tool posts with one tool rest support can work just fine. (For example, you might often use a 4 inch toolrest with your mini lathe, but find that on rare occasions the short rest is essential for work you do on your larger lathe.)

The Woodcraft system offers tool support bars in 4, 6 and 12 inch lengths. These are probably the most desired and useful sizes (the 12 inch size being a nice addition to the usually very short rests that come standard with most mini lathes). The Sorby offers 4, 6 and 9 inch lengths. The BestWoodTools system includes all the lengths offered by the others, as well as offset bars (3/6 and 2/4 inch combos) in their standard 3/4 inch support bar size, and also makes available a "Super T-Bar" of inch diameter which comes in lengths of 12, 15. 18 and 24 inches (the latter requires two posts).

The systems differ in other ways, both with respect to design and function. The tool support bar of the Woodcraft system is in the shape of a heavy "L." That is, the bottom, short leg of the "L" is much thicker than the rising portion of the "L." This thick base provides the "meat" into which the interchangeable posts can be threaded, and adds to the rests overall strength, which is already pretty good simply because of the angle iron shape. Along the top of the "L" a hardened rod (1/4 by my measurement, 5/16 according to the Woodcraft product description) is welded. This hardened rod is very resistant to nicks and dents, and thus allows for a smooth surface with little maintenance other than an occasional wipe with paraffin and/or steel wool. The narrow rod also allows for the tool bearing surface to be very close to the forward (wood facing) edge of the rest, much like the factory style rests.

The BestWoodTools rests are made of a round bar of alloy steel, 3/4 or 1 inch in diameter. The rests are very smooth and like the Woodcraft, because of their hardness, tend to stay that way. The interchangeable posts screw directly into a hole drilled and tapped into the round tool rest bar, with an added brass saddle at the top of the post, making for a smooth transition from the post to the support bar.

The Sorby also uses a hardened round bar that appears to be near 3/4 inch diameter, but as I haven't measured one consider this approximate. These posts screw directly to the tool post without the added saddle found on the BestWoodTools.

One difference between the angled rests that usually come from the factory, the "L" shape of the Woodcraft, and the round bar of the BestWoodTools and Sorby, is the minimum distance achievable between the wood being turned and the linear area of tool support. Specifically, with the Woodcraft straight rests, the tool bearing surface is 1/8 inch back from the forward edge of the rest, compared to essentially 1/32 with a stock rest (few want the edge of the stock rest to come to a razor sharp edge, thus a little blunting of the forward edge is maintained) and 3/8 inch with the BestWoodTools 3/4 inch tool support bars (and even more so with their larger Super T-Bars). These small differences make little to no difference when turning larger blanks, but for small scale and miniature work, I much prefer a rest that allows the tool bearing surface to be as close as possible to the wood surface. Accordingly, I use all three Woodcraft straight tool rests on my Jet Mini, and save the BestWoodTools rests for much of the larger work I do on my Nova.

Another difference relates to the use of an undercling grip (called hand-under by Raffan and tied-underhand by Darlow). Since the tool support bar on the BestWoodTools rest is round on the bottom as well as the top, and only 3/4 of an inch from front to back, it (and the similar Sorby) may offer those with smaller hands and/or shorter fingers a more comfortable and easily achievable undercling grip, compared to the relatively wide and bulky square edged bottom of the Woodcraft rests. However, if the rest is placed quite near the turning, the round BestWoodTools and Sorby tool rests offer little clearance space in which that unclung finger can fit. In comparison, the straight sided and nearly 2 inch tall Woodcraft rests (and most of the larger stock tool rests) are taller and thus leave more space at the bottom rear of the rest for that underclung finger. (If you have trouble visualizing this, look at the pictures on page 77 of Raffan's new edition of "Turning Wood," or pages 86 & 87 of Darlow's "Fundamentals of Woodturning").

Much as I like the Woodcraft tool rests, I find them to be dangerous as they come in stock form. The problem (which potentially applies to any "L" shaped or angle iron tool rest) comes from the flat shelf that forms the base of the tool rest. If your tool should slip off the left edge of the tool rest while holding the tool with an underhanded grip (don't feel superior, incidents of this have been reported several times, including once by yours truly, and on at least one occasion by a professional turner), it can result in your hand and tool traveling downwards with potentially great force. Though the tool shaft is now clear of the tool rest, the fingers holding the tool are not. As they travel downward, they can strike down onto the flat shelf of the tool rest. A shearing force will result between the unrestrained tool and hand continuing to travel downward, and the suddenly restrained portion of the fingers that have come to a rapid stop on the tool rest ledge. This has resulted in lacerated and broken fingers, and potentially could result in amputation of portions of the fingers. This does not happen with the angled bodies of the factory supplied rests, or the rounded shape of the BestWoodTools, as the fingers can slide off from the body of the rest, but with an "L" shaped or angle iron rest the flat lower shelf causes the fingers to come to a sudden stop, rather than directing the fingers off and away from the rest. As serious a fault as this is, it is easily remedied by taking an angled piece of wood or plastic and gluing it onto the shelf (his wedge needs to extend across the full width of the shelf). By doing so, you have changed the shape of the rest from "L" shaped to angled, and eliminated the source of potential injury. I have done this with all three of my Woodcraft tool support bars and have found it to work well.

In talking with Product Development at Woodcraft over a year ago, they informed me that their entire modular tool rest system is being revised and upgraded. Their straight tool rests were to soon have a concave, smooth plastic block filling the space above the ledge of the tool rest, much in the same way as the wooden "safety" blocks I have urged users to install. This refinement will remove my only real reservation with these straight rests, but for reasons I can't explain, it has yet come to pass and reports continue to come in of damaged fingers.

Extended length tool rests

(usually 24 or 36 inch length when commercially available)

As mentioned earlier, most standard tool rests for full size lathes rarely come in tool support lengths longer than 15 inches. It doesn't take a degree in physics to realize that six or seven inches past a narrow central support post is about as much as an unbraced tool support bar can handle. Still, sometimes, and almost always with spindle work, an extra long tool rest is desirable (it's never essential, just watch the Dennis White video "Classic Profiles: balusters, table legs and more" to see how an expert finds a standard length rest to pose no impediment to long work). These tool rests usually require two posts spaced along the length to handle the wide span. Two tool posts immediately poses a problem for most turners, in that exceedingly few lathes come with more than one banjo (the Stubby and some Nichols models being exceptions that come to mind). Nova 3k owners can rotate their optional outboard tool rest assembly to serve as a second conventional banjo to support the headstock end of long tool rests. But for most, purchase of a second banjo is required, and is not an inconsiderable expense (generally between $70 and $250 depending on manufacturer). This in addition to the $30 dollar to $150 cost of the tool rest itself. Thus, long tool rests are really more of a specialty rest, but since they follow the same general design and use considerations of other straight tool rests, I'm going to discuss them here.

Even if one is willing to deal with the expense, another obstacle will arise for many. The manufacturers of modestly priced long tool rests have designed them to work with 12 inch swing (or smaller) lathes and only come with a 1 inch diameter tool post. Thus the inexpensive angle iron Lee Valley tool rests ($29 for a 24 inch rest; $36 for a 36 inch length rest) and the typically available moderately priced cast iron Delta tool rests ($90-95 dollars depending on source) come with short tool rest posts (approximately 2.25 inches past the bottom of the tool support bar for both the LVs and for the Delta). These short tool posts preclude their use on many larger swing lathes. For example, the tool post for the stock Nova 3K rest is 4.25 inches.

I find the 24 inch Super T-Bar rest from BestWoodTools to be the highest quality commercial choice presently available. It will take any of their extensive selection of standard tool posts, so thus be adaptable to almost any lathe, but there remains the problem that such a set up is expensive due to the need for two tool posts and two banjos.

The above factors tend to encourage and sometimes force owners of many lathes to consider making their own long tool rest, either out of angle iron or out of a hard wood. To custom make your own from angle iron requires you to have (or have access to) welding tools, and other metal working tools such as files and saws, and even a metal lathe if you have to manufacture your own tool rest posts. With these tools and competency in using them, making up your own extended tool rests is really a simple task. If you can use the Lee Valley posts, they do have the advantage that the can easily be moved over to any length of angle iron, mounting easily after two holes are drilled into the lower portion of the angle iron. For those without the metal working expertise or tools, wooden extended rests are a reasonable alternative for most turners. Since Ernie Conover (in his book "Turning for Furniture"), Keith Rowley (in his book, "Woodturning: A Foundation Course") and others have discussed how to make such wooden tool rests, I won't go into it here, other than to affirm that such approaches are feasible and can be valuable for occasional work.

My personal combination is the Lee Valley 24 inch extended tool rest. I use it with the Nova outboard turning rest assemble rotated back to locate the banjo along the headstock end of the bed to take the forward tool bar post. I use the stock banjo to mount the rear post. The short length of the LV tool posts are just barely sufficient in length to capture the posts within the banjo socket. Another option is to screw in the clamping handles and have the bottom of the posts rest directly on top of the clamping studs as they block the inside of the banjo socket. You can get by with this loose setting since the dual tool posts will prevent rotational movement. For me, this has been an effective, safe and relatively low cost extended tool rest. Even though it is made from 1.5 x 1.5 angle iron, it comes in a safe configuration as the Angle Iron as Lee Valley has chosen to position it has the open portion of the angle away from the turner, with the closed angle pointing directly back towards the turner (i.e.">" rather than "L"). This results in a configuration much different, and safer, than the "L" shaped rests more commonly found.

My Bottom Line

(based on my experiences, equipment, and needs)

1. The stock 15 inch tool rest is just fine as it came with my Nova 3K and DVR. However, my Jet Mini tool rest was inadequate and was replaced with a Woodcraft after-market tool rest.
2. The modular systems I have used are good, though my preferred all around modular tool rest is the Woodcraft (as long as its safety considerations are addressed). The Woodcraft design is better adapted to handle both detail and large scale work. A full-sized lathe owner will want a 4 or 6 inch additional rest, a mini lathe owner will want a 12 inch additional rest.
3. For my situation the Lee Valley extra length tool rests are an inexpensive solution (particularly if I substitute a 48 inch section of angle iron for the shorter LV lengths), though their tool posts are just barely long enough. With most larger lathes, I suspect a shop built wooden tool rest will work quite satisfactorily, be more accessible, and much cheaper. Using the ideas of Conover and/or Rowley, you can often work around the need for a second banjo.
4. My very favorite and most used straight tool rests are the hand made bent steel KISS toolrests (8, 12 and 18 inch). I have not incorporated them earlier in this review as I have heard they are no longer being produced. I am ending this section with a KISS tool rest review which had been published separately. If you can get one, buy it.

The KISS Tool Rest

A short while back I did a comprehensive review of tool rests for More Woodturning. Determining my preferred bowl and hollowing rests was pretty easy, but coming up with the preferred straight rest was more difficult, and my preference was eventually for a rest that required modification to be safely used. At that time, I also described my need for a longer tool rest, something in the order of 16 inches, rather than the usual 12. Reading that, James Johnson tossed me an e-mail, offering to make up a custom rest for me. With few words we set the specifications and a while later one heavy duty 16 inch rest arrived. I was and remain very happy with it. I told James that I was going to write up my positive experience with his extra length rest, but he told me to wait, as he had a new idea for a tool rest and would like me to try that one first. Never one to turn down a chance to obtain another tool, I said sure, and before long another Johnson custom tool rest arrived by UPS.

That second tool rest is the one I want to tell you about. It quickly has become my preferred straight tool rest, over both the Woodcraft and BestWoodTools modular tool rests, and the stock rest that came with my Novas. James calls it the KISS model, and I think that is an appropriate name.

The KISS tool rest, is simple in concept, with the tool support section starting life as a 1/4 x 3 inch x 12 inch piece of mild steel plate. That plate has a bend one inch down from the top edge, with the bend running the length of the rest. With this 1" high section oriented vertically (as it always is when mounted to the banjo), the bottom is angled back at 30 degrees. The bottom ends of the tool support plate are tapered, with a triangular portion removed on each side of the tool post. Those triangles are about 1.25 inch x 5.5 inch long. This is effective in keeping the bottom of the tool rest from bumping into the headstock, and combined with the minimal thickness of the steel plate, allows for a comfortable undercling grip, even for someone with shorter fingers like mine.

The top of the tool post is cut at 30 degrees and welded to the back of the inclined portion of tool support plate. My tool rest is made with a 1 inch tool post, though it may be possible to obtain larger and smaller diameters, as well as 8 inch and other lengths of tool support plate, on a custom basis from James.

When I first saw the rest, I wasn't particularly impressed. But, to paraphrase, the truth is in the use, and in use it works just wonderfully. The main advantages are...

1. the 1/4 inch plate allows the tool fulcrum point to be placed very close to the wood.
2. the tool rest is fairly dead, it does not ring and it does not flex.
3. as I mentioned before, the thinness of the plate coupled with the angled bottom allows for a comfortable undercling grip.
4. the tool rest is safe. All the surfaces are smooth, angled, and/or rounded. Not only are there no sharp edges, but there are no shelves to hang up on.

There are two other features of this tool rest that I've especially come to appreciate. The first is the surface of the tool support plate. James deliberately decided not to paint it. Instead, he ground the welds and gave the whole thing a semi-polished surface, then wiped it with a coat of wax. The end result is that the bare, but slightly textured metal feels far smoother than any paint would. I find my hand, gloved or bare, slides along this rest more smoothly and comfortably than any other rest I have used. The bend in the tool support plate provides comfortable support to the hand, while allowing the hand, as well as the tool, to rest close to the surface being turned. It was this aspect of the tool rest that I didn't anticipate just by looking at it, and it is this aspect of the tool rest that almost unconsciously leads me to choose the KISS rest for each turning session. It actually came as a surprise to me that I found that the KISS tool rest was the one I was always using.

The other "feature" of the tool rest, again, initially didn't seem like it was a feature at all. This is the softness of the mild steel tool support plate. My initial concern was that it would quickly develop dings and cuts that would interfere with tool movement and be a constant chore to remove. Well, it does cut and ding more readily than the narrow hardened rod of the Woodcraft tool rest, or the round steel bar of the BestWoodTools, but not nearly as badly as I expected. Nor is it as much of a chore to maintain as I feared, and certainly no more than the tool rest that came with my Novas. A quick lick with some sand paper or a file cleans it up fast and fine. So what is the feature? It is that I find that the tool rest takes the abuse and my tools don't. With the narrow hardened rod of my Woodcraft rest, I'd sometimes get dings in my parting tools (particularly fluted parting tools), skew, and even scrapes on gouges. These are hard to remove and I just don't like having my tools take abuse and develop scars when the tool rest can instead. So now I consider that softer steel as a plus. James and I talked of putting a hardened rod across the top of his tool rest, but it would have effectively doubled the cost of the tool rest, and now I believe such a rod would be a drawback rather than an advantage.

The best part is that James is selling his KISS tool rests, in either an 8 or 12 inch length, for only $25 per rest, plus the cost of shipping (probably around $7-8). I consider this a bargain, and only a little more than the price of the tool post alone for some of the modular systems. (Though you many be able to use that same tool post with a bowl rest, hollowing bar or with several different lengths of straight tool support bars.) There is also a 16 inch rest available. I now have all three, and each is my favorite within its size range.

Having purchased most of the tool rests out there to evaluate for the tool rest articles that have appeared in More Woodturning, I can pretty much elect whatever tool rest will best meet my particular turning needs of the moment. I've found that the BestWoodTools Adjustable Bowl Rest system is wat I most often use for bowls, the BestWoodTools Adjustable Pin rest (special ordered with two extra holes for home made gates) as my preferred hollowing rest, and now the KISS rest as my almost constantly used straight tool rest. Given that one uses a straight rest for the majority of one's turning, I'd say that the KISS tool rest has become my standard.

If you are interested in one for yourself, you often can find James on the rec.crafts.woodturing newsgroup or contact him via the information below:

Now, back to the comparative tool rest review and on to Part II.

A Long Discussion and
Brief Review of Tool Rests

Part II: Bowl Rests

Let me establish from the beginning that we all know you don't need to have a specialized bowl rest to turn a bowl. People were making very nice bowls long before the specialized rests were developed, and a straight rest is still the preferred rest for many of the tasks involved in making a bowl. Furthermore, there are potential disadvantages to using bowl rests, apart from their added cost. For one, it can be hard to break free of the curve set by the bowl rest, a phenomenon that never occurs using a straight rest. Thus, a bowl rest of a given radius tends to encourage one to make bowls of that same size and shape; this hardly leads to creativity or optimal use of a bowl blank.

That said, most of us find it handy to have at least a couple of bowl rests. I say couple because you quickly learn that what works well for the inside of a bowl doesn't usually work as well for the outside and what works well for a small bowl won't work at all for a large one. Part of this is related to the location of the tool post, with bowl rests primarily intended for external use having a post centrally located under the tool support bar, while rests principally designed for interior or general purpose use having the post located towards or at one end. All things being equal, for the same length tool support bar, the centrally mounted post will make for a more rigid tool rest.

Bowl rests don't fall as neatly into the categories I used for the straight rests, so this time I will just take it by manufacturer, starting with the two modular systems (see the prior installment for discussions of the nature of modular systems).

Woodcraft Modular

Woodcraft offers two bowl rests as part of their modular system; a small bowl rest intended for bowls up to 7 inches in diameter, and a large bowl rest intended for bowls up to 14 inches in diameter. Both rests are configured as internal/general purpose rests, with the interchangeable tool posts located at one end of the tool support bar. Unlike the straight tool support bars in this system, which have a hardened rod along the top, the tool support bar of the Woodcraft bowl rest is made of just one vertically oriented flat piece of solid steel with a large round bulge at one end where the tool post attaches. They also differ from their straight siblings in that the bowl rests have a narrow but flat top. Both tool support bars curve over almost a semicircle.

I find that this almost 180 degree arc to have several disadvantages. First it limits the size bowl you can effectively fit within the tool rest, when used externally. If the turning is even mildly larger that the size of the bowls radius, the front edge of the rest can't be located anywhere close to the wood, something like this: cO where the c is the tool support bar and O is the bowl blank. When used internally the broad sweep of the rest makes it difficult to locate the rest other than fully within the bowl (say you are trying to hollow out a bowl to an approximate radius equal to that of the rest, but you haven't yet gone that deep), for otherwise the rest will arc around across the front of the bowl and get in the way of tool use, something like this: Cu this time where the C is the bowl blank and u is the rest (but in reality it would be partially enclosed within the C), thus showing how the long arc of the rest comes across the front of the bowl, if not yet able to be fully enclosed within it. Furthermore, even when these situations are manageable, the bulge for the tool post often gets in the way when approaching the bowl with a tool at a flat angle. Much as I liked the straight tool support bars in this modular system, I find the bowl support bars to be among the least practical of all the bowl rests.

Sorby Modular Bowl Rest

Sorby makes two 9 inch "S" curve hardened steel round bar bowl rests. They will fit on any of the Sorby modular tool posts. The bars are tapped either "top" or "bottom" to achieve a reversal of shape, thus you will need separate rests for internal or external work. The up side of the Sorby system is that it does not have a bulky mount to the tool post, which can offer superior clearance for some angles of tool postioning. However, that is the only advantage I see, in that the curves are fixed in radius (and a small one at that), orientation and extension beyond the tool post.

Teknatool Optional Bowl Rest

This rest is made by the makers of the Nova lathes and intended as an option for the DVR and 3000, though it will fit most lathes which take a 1 inch tool post. This is a fixed post tool rest with a round J shaped tool support bar that is just shy of 1 inch in diameter. Its radius is more shallow (i.e., taking up more of the leg of the "J,"), than that found with the BestWoodTools systems. The tool rest post is permanently attached to the body, approximately 1/3 in from the end, allowing it to be used both internally and externally with a reasonable degree of support. In use, the steel of this rest seems a little softer than that of the BestWoodTools rests, and is not as finely finished (it is painted gray). The location of the tool post mount seems well determined in that I notice very little twist or flex using this rest, though it does prevent the entire length of the tool support bar to be place inside a bowl. By welding the post to the bottom of the tool support bar, there is no mounting block, bulge or cap to potentially interfere with tool movement. Though not as adaptable as the BestWoodTools system, I find the Teknatool Bowl Rest to be a quality tool rest at a modest price ($40).

Craft Supplies S-Curved

This rest is sold by Craft Supplies. It is painted Record blue, so I am suspicious that it may be available from suppliers of Record equipment as well. It is different from many in that it uses a thick, heavy, contoured, 9 inch long, cast iron tool support bar which is shaped in the form of a tight S, and has two sockets so as to locate the tool post about a third of the way in from either end. I has a flat topped surface where the tool contacts the bar, which some feel is a better support for bowl scrapers. I like this rest. I have not found it as useful for general purpose work as some, due to its thickness and short radii, but it often will work in the very places the other bowl rests won't fit. It can extend approximately 6.5 inches into a bowl, though it needs an open mouth to accommodate its top to bottom thickness (which at approximately 2 inches is greater than any other bowl rest). There is never a hint of flex or twist, indeed, this is the most rugged and vibration absorbing of any bowl rest I have encountered. Though not having as extensive a selection as offered by Woodcraft and BestWoodTools, the posts for this rest are available in 3/4, 1&1/8, and two lengths of 1 inch diameter.

Oneway Interior and Exterior Curved Tool Rests

Oneway makes separate bowl rests for interior and exterior work. Unlike the other tool rests, these are manufactured from stainless steel with tool support bars made of flat 1/2 inch thick by 1.25 inch tall, vertically oriented stock with a slightly rounded top. They both come with your choice of a 3/4 or 1 inch post welded to the a tool support bar, though not all suppliers show the 3/4 inch post as available. The Oneway Exterior tool support bar is 12 inches long with a 6 inch radius, the radius continues over about a third of a circle. This rest has its tool post located in the center of the tool support bar. The Oneway Interior rest is 11 inches long with a 5 inch radius at the end of a J shape. This rest has its tool post located at the end of the straight leg of the J. As can be gathered from these dimensions, both these rests are intended for use on medium to large bowls.

I like the Oneway exterior rest a lot. It is my favorite exterior rest for the size bowls it is intended for, in that it is very rigid due to its central post, usually allows the turning tools to be positioned close to the work, and makes it easier to cut most of the outside of a bowl in a single pass, as opposed to some of the J shapes which usually require at least one tool rest adjustment to keep the rest close to the work. It can even be used for the inside of fairly shallowly curved vessels that aren't too deep.

To my surprise, I don't care much for the Interior rest. The fixed post at the rear results in too much overhang for the design and materials used. As a result, I get more twist and flex at the end of this tool rest than most others (granted that some of the others are shorter, but some are not, and the Teknatool bowl rest is essentially identical in length and curvature but places the tool post differently). This is hard for me to understand, as its tool support bar contains more material than most others, so I can only speculate the combination of the curvature with the flat shape and the long extension past the tool post results in torsional flexing. The rest does have the advantage that the narrow tool support bar will allow potentially closer tool pivot points, but I don't find this advantage to outweigh its low threshold for flexing.

Other rests

The following rests I present for information only, I haven't used any of these rests.

Woodfast shallow

Craft Supplies shows a shallow S shaped tool rest available as an option for the Woodfast lathes, though they note it should be used "outboard only." It is probably a 1 inch post, but one should check if they are considering it.

Delta bowl rests

Packard Woodworks show Delta French Curl toolrests for both inboard and outboard turning. These have fixed 1 inch posts that are 3.5 inches long. The cast iron tool support bars have a curve extending over a six inch length on one side and a 4.5 inch length on the other. There is also a cast iron "Mini French Curl" tool rest with a 5/8 inch shaft that will fit most "mini" lathes. This rest is about 8 inches overall with one end curved smaller that the other.

Highland Hardware "Delta" Deep Curved Tool Rests:

Highland Hardware presents these rests as "exclusive" to them, but others who have purchased them have reported they are Deltas. They show two sizes of rests, both with a 1 inch tool post at the end. They appear similar in appearance to the Woodcraft bowl rests, but with a welded on post. The small rest is described as 4 inches long with a curve of 2.5 inches radius. The large rest is listed as 8 inches long with a 4.5 inch radius. Both rests are reported to be case hardened.

Highland Hardware French Curl Tool Rests

Again, Highland Hardware presents themselves as the exclusive provider of these tool rests, and again the tool rests are offered with a 1 inch post welded to the tool support bar. There are separate Inboard and Outboard versions, each with the "French Curl" extending over a 12 inch total length.

1. The BestWoodTools Adjustable Bowl Rest system has so much going for it and is so adaptable that I am very sorry I didn't encounter it (and it wasn't available) sooner. It is one of the more rigid, the three sizes of tool support bar meet the needs of most bowl sizes and shapes, it can be configured for no more extension past the tool post than required, and with its multitude of possible tool posts it can be adapted to virtually any lathe. It is a bit expensive if one only needs a single size, but it is actually quite competitive if bought with all three lengths of tool support bars. If I could only have one bowl rest, this would be it.
2. The Oneway external bowl rest is very nice and I regularly use it for medium to large bowls. Its welded on central post makes for a rigid tool support bar, and its wide constant curve allows for smooth continuous cuts along most of a bowl's external surface. Its relatively narrow tool support bar lets me position my tools closer to the outside of the vessels its curvature is suitable for. It can even do additional duty as internal rest for boxes and open mouthed vases that are modest in depth.
3. The Craft Supplies S curve is a useful rest when I find myself needing to follow (or create) tight curves and/or need a very rigid rest. I would not want this as my first and only bowl rest (though in fact, for sometime it was), but if you feel you have your main bowl rest needs covered, you may well find it worth purchasing as it will work well where other rests don't seem to fit.

The next and last installment will be a discussion and review of special purpose tool rests, including box and pin rests.

Pivot Pin Tool Rests

Some existing tool rests can be modified to accept a quarter inch diameter, 1 to 1.5 inch long section of drill rod (or more hardened steel if you have it available, just make sure it is not brittle), by simply drilling a matching hole, or series of holes (about 2 inches apart) in the top of your tool support bar. The only requirements specific to the support bar is that it be wide enough to accept and support a 1/4 inch diameter hole, and the metal be soft enough to be drilled. Once one or more holes have been drilled, slip in a short section of drill rod, and you now have a pin to place your tool against.

Treebridge

Poolewood Deep Hollowing Tool Rest

Mortimer "Duel Pin tool rest"

Hegner HDB Deep Hollowing Rest

BestWoodTools Pin Rest and Adjustable Pin Rest

Already owning a BWT adjustable bowl rest system (see Part II of this review for description), I inquired if a single straight tool support bar could be made up to fit in the adjustable mount, and drilled for two pin positions. BWT had already been thinking along these lines and has decided to put such a bar into regular production. It is a 9 inch bar with one pin hole 1/2 inch from the end position on one side of the bar, and another pin hole 2 inches in from the same end, but on the opposite side of the bar (i.e, 180 degrees opposed, but on the same end). These are blind holes so the pin stays firmly in place and the surface opposite the hole is remains smooth. This is the way the bar will normally be offered. In this configuration you can simply remove the curved bar from your adjustable bowl system, and use your straight bar in one of three ways: 1, as an adjustable extension/off set straight tool support bar; 2, with a pin at the far end, or with the pin at the 2 inch position (the latter leaves you enough space to place your tool on either side of the pin). This standard configuration comes with 4 pins (of two different heights), and the bar. If you don't already have an adjustable support block (mount) from their adjustable bowl system, or if you wish not to interchange bars, then the bar, 4 pins and the support block can be purchased. You will also need one of their posts which fits your banjo. I also would suggest the addition of a tool post support collar (locking ring) that can hold your tool post at a consistent height, even when you unlock the post in the banjo. This allows the rest to be easily positioned to differing angles, and to swivel out of the way or be removed temporarily when clearing shavings and chips from a hollow form. You can obtain such collars from BWT, scavenge it from an existing Phil Irons Tool Gate, or purchase one very cheaply from a supplier like ENCO.

On my pin rest support bar, BWT also added a similar pair of 5/16 inch through holes on the opposite end, so I can fit the plastic tool gates that come with my Phil Irons Tool Gate. Since mine was made, at least one turner I know has ordered this configuration, so the extra two holes should be available as a special order option. This is the configuration I tested, and I can only say I'm really impressed. I've long used the Phil Irons Tool Gate offered by Woodcut (discussed below and reviewed last year in my Brief Review of Hollowing Tools) and I like its plastic tool gates, but this new system from BWT is a significant advancement beyond it. The BWT rest lets me choose from any of the Iron's tool gates, similar gates I've made from aluminum and Delrin, and the BWT vertical pins (and in the near future, a tool gate designed by BWT will also be available). Also, the BWT tool support bar is 3 inches longer which allows me to achieve greater extension into the mouth of open, but deep forms, while the adjustability feature allows me to shorten it, and/or reposition the pins or gates, simply and quickly. Tools pivot smoothly, almost effortlessly along the bars and in the gates. The pin is preferable for use with scrapers and gouges, the gates for use with hollowing tools. Using either, I don't have to worry as much about minor catches or sudden changes in wood density, and can use my hands to maneuver tools more precisely because I don't have to use them to control the tool in as many directions, nor with as much strength. This results in smoother cuts and more delicate use of the tools. And for a person with arthritis or peripheral neuropathy, this tool rest may allow one to turn longer and with greater comfort.

Now I'm sure that most of the other systems mentioned earlier offer some of these same advantages, but I don't recognize that any of them offer as many advantages, or in such a refined fashion (the Hegner looks like it comes the closest). I have long been a fan of gated systems for hollowing, but such systems won't work in the same way for scrapers and many gouge cuts. This new BWT Adjustable Pin Rest has it all.

Gated Tool Rests

To my way of thinking, the best gates are U shaped and simultaneously contact the tool shaft on both sides, and over a relatively wide flat low friction surface. Because the U shaped gate can provide such tight constraint of the shaft, the gate is best matched to tools of a single diameter, though often one can get by with using slightly smaller diameter shafts in the same gate (say a 1/2 inch shaft in a gate meant for a 5/8 inch shaft). This means that one would need multiple sizes of U shaped gates to handle the usual shaft diameters of 3/4, 5/8 and 1/2 (not to mention the sometimes necessary 1 inch, 7/8, and 3/8 inch shafts). To avoid the necessity of multiple gates (and having to change them with each different tool used) two other styles of gates are found: the V shaped gate and the "goal post" gate, the latter having its two vertical pins or sides at least as wide as the largest shaft anticipated. However, these two gate styles have disadvantages not found on the U shaped gates. The V shaped gate will often allow the tool to climb up the walls of the V under sideways pressure; the goal post style will usually swivel until both posts are in contact with the sides of the tool, and can create a "camming" action that obstructs the in and out movement of the tool.

A good gate greatly assists in delicate tool control, allows for leverage of the shaft against a sidewall (helpful when using the side of cutting tools), limits catches and prevents kickback from a tool which drifts out of position in the form, and can be positioned such that it will protect you from bumping tool shafts against the mouth of a fragile hollow form. The down side is that it often has to be repositioned to allow for the necessary tool approach angles, and is yet another item to purchase. For me these are inconsequential disadvantages compared to the many advantages. So, on to the specific rests.

Phil Irons Tool Gate

Overall, this is a very adaptable tool rest system. The wide flat support bar, with the gates removed, can serve as a nice extended reach rest for scrapers. The plastic gates don't mar tool shafts, are quiet, absorb some shock, and have held up to very rough use. As described above, they allow one to lever the side of a cutting (ring/hook) tool against the work. Another nice feature of this rest is that for bowls or semi-enclosed forms, the bar can be extended several inches into the form to reduce tool overhang. Being shorter, it won't extend quite as far as the BWT adjustable pin rest, but still a very helpful distance. Frankly, I don't believe you can achieve full performance from a Proforme, Exocet, or Big Brother without this, the BWT, or a similar pin/gated tool rest.

McNaughton Gate

Hollowing Tool Rest

Comments on Pin Rests Discussed Earlier Used as Gated Tool Rests

The BWT Adjustable Pin Rest is available as a special order option with two holes drilled to accept the Phil Iron's plastic gates, or similar ones you can make up yourself from Delrin rod and a clevis pin. A dedicated BWT tool gate is in development but it is unclear when (or if) it will see the light of day. Until that time, its use as a gated tool rest is limited to those who can scavenge the excellent Phil Irons tool gates, or make one up for themselves. This will surely be impractical for some, but for those who can, this in my opinion is the state of the art in a combined pin / gated tool rest.

The Hegner comes with a gate as well as a pin for mounting on its tool support bar. The overall design of the Hegner rest looks good in photos (as I mentioned previously, I have only seen this tool rest on their web site). However, the one size fits all gate (what they call a swivel fork) appears to be a rectangular "goal post" design and I suspect it will fall victim to the camming effect I discussed at the start of this section. This might be rectified by substituting a home made U shaped gate, or padding the walls of the existing gate out with a slick plastic. If the Phil Iron's and BWT options were not available, I think I would look seriously into the Hegner.

The Mortimer is the other of the pin rest designs that claims gated function as well. With the support bar twisted to ride almost parallel to the tool shaft, it should provide adequate ability to lever the tool sideways. However, the gate is so extremely wide it almost surely will fall prey to cam locking, and even if it didn't, there is so much width that it offers few advantages with respect to fine tool control or restricted motion to protect narrow mouths.

Box rests

BestWoodTools Universal Box Rests

Sorby Box Scraper Platform

Phil Irons Tool Gate

My Bottom Line
(based on my experiences, equipment, and needs)

1. I find a pin or gated tool rest system almost essential to get the most of many hollowing tools, to increase the delicacy and precision with which scrapers and sometimes gouges can be used, to allow for more aggressive use of the gouge when hollowing, and to reduce strain on the fingers and hands. I caution novices not to consider it a substitute for technique and would urge them not to use such tool rests for anything but hollowing tools (you can get yourself in a world of trouble using a gouge with a pin rest). For the intermediate and advanced turner, I think a gated rest can greatly raise the level of performance of many hollowing tools (e.g., Viking, Proforme, Exocet, Hamlet Big Brother), will allow you to attempt more difficult hollowing projects, and a pin rest can actually increase the aggressiveness with which you can use a gouge to rough out bowl interiors, while increasing the precision with which you can use some tools like scrapers. For those with arthritis, peripheral neuropathy, or damaged hands, a pin/gated rest may well allow you to return to a level of comfort and function in your turning which you may have thought had passed. A pin/gated tool rest is not a panacea, but I find it has made a significant difference in all of these areas for me.
2. The BestWoodTools adjustable system is so well thought out, so well machined, so wide ranging in its capabilities and with components so easily interchangeable, recommending their adjustable pin rest is easy. Yes, you take a mild risk on what their final gated design will be, but even if it never comes to pass, it wouldn't be that hard to make up your own Delrin, UHMW, solid nylon, or even aluminum gates. If you already have a Phil Irons Tool Gate, the adjustable pin rest is still worth getting (particularly if you are anticipating getting a bowl rest or already have a BWT adjustable bowl rest), and you should special order the bar with the two extra 5/16 inch holes. You can then cut off a couple of inches from the Phil Irons support bar and make it into a useful scraper and fluted parting tool rest. A few months ago my preference would have been for the Phil Irons Tool Gate, but since that time it has gone up in price, it lacks pin capabilities, and is not nearly as adjustable as the BWT Pin Rest, nor as rugged as the McNaughton. Still, the Phil Iron's gated rest is a very credible alternative, particularly in that it comes with great gates and a tool post collar. The new McNaughton Gate has a lot going for it in terms of being adjustable in length and very ruggedly built. However, it appears less adaptable in other ways, fitting only a 1 inch tool post and having only a single size of gate. Finally, if one has ready access to the Hegner, I'd recommend checking it out. It too looks like a credible alternative, and appears to be both innovative and well made.
3. For those who regularly make flat bottomed boxes, the BWT box rests will almost surely be recognized as wonderful upon first use. I purchased this item with skepticism, only to find I like and use it a lot (and for a lot more than boxes). If you already have the Sorby modular system, than getting their version is a cost effective choice.

Coda